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I do a lot of tight-budget builds, and it just doesn't take much to really go off-track. It's why I always hammer a budget right out of the gate - I run into so many situations where the goals and the budget just aren't initially aligned and it takes a lot of work to hammer out the gap. I remember a tight budget build where I suggested the owner keep his existing tin (pan, timing cover, etc.) but he wanted "new"...so he bought new Milodon stuff and then whined about the $300
Owner: "I want 500HP!"
Me: "OK, figure on around 10K"
Owner: "Um...what can I get for around $4K?"
So this is probably a dumb question, but why do the studs make the mains stronger, I mean if it were just the material, ARP makes bolts as well as studs right, but i don't figure that its just the material. Can you get a main gurdle for gm blocks? I would figure that once you get 7500 to 8000$ into a build you wouldn't want to see that money go to waste.
Studs don't make the mains stronger - the caps are what they are. But they do apply more clamping force which increases the load that the caps can carry before they walk. Same for 4 bolts over two, splayed outer bolts, steel caps, etc. Once the bore distorts, the bearing is going to fail more quickly.
This is also why switching from bolts to studs requires an align-hone - the bore is no longer round due to the increased clamping load, and that needs to be corrected.
Scottyp99, LOL that is so true. Many more spun rods than spun mains. Ford ran a bunch of hogh torque and high HP engines with two bolt main engines.
News to me, Boss 302/351 were 4bolters. 351/429 CJs were 4bolters. 427HP was crossbolted. Seems to me if high RPM is in the cards I would go 4bolt but, would'nt spend the $$ for a cap conversion on a 2 bolt block (speaking from expirience here as I have spent time on a Bridgeport doing this job, if the shop has a CNC blockmaster maybe it would be less grief but, it is a true PITA to do this job.) If your building a hydraulic cammed motor with regular heads, I wouldn't worry about 4bolt mains.
Windsor Two bolt The FEs other than the side oiler are two bolt. Not news anymore. The splayed cap conversion is an easy one takes an hour or so plus the Align hone or bore. Setting up for the align hone $80.
So this is probably a dumb question, but why do the studs make the mains stronger, I mean if it were just the material, ARP makes bolts as well as studs right, but i don't figure that its just the material. Can you get a main gurdle for gm blocks? I would figure that once you get 7500 to 8000$ into a build you wouldn't want to see that money go to waste.
It is because the torque is transferred more directly to the fastener instead of directly to the block threads. With bolts all the torque and clamp force is being put through the threads in the block and as you torque the bolt it wants to pull the threads up causing stress and distortion. The studs are not torqued into place like the bolts, so the fastener takes the brunt of the torque and causes less stress and distortion when the caps are torqued down, now the threads in the block basically only "hold" the stud in place.
Studs are SAE threads into the block and fine threads on top. Torque readings are much more accurate since you're stretching the bolt less with every nut flat on the fine threads. You also preserve the threads in the block for future rebuilds, there's no friction between the stud and the block, just "grab", they're not pulling and turning at the same time, that's happening between the stud and nut.
As for the crossbolts on the LS engines, it's a whole lot more than holding the crank securely due to extra bolts. This design actually incorporates the cap as part of the block's structure, making the entire bottom end much, much stiffer and more stable.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
There is one more thing, A bolt has threads all the way while the stud is threaded only on each end with an unthreaded part in the middle making them stronger. Someone must have missed that when they googled it
A bolt has threads all the way while the stud is threaded only on each end with an unthreaded part in the middle making them stronger.
Could you post a picture of or reference to a stock or aftermarket GEN I main bolt that is fully threaded? I have never seen one, but always interested in learning something new!
I went out to the shop and pulled out a used ARP bolt from a project that just came in, and it wasn't fully threaded, either...
The failures typically come from the main cap shifting under load and associated atypical bearing wear. They don't go boom - they just start making metal.
The caps don't start moving around until the bolts stretch enough to relieve the clamping force. Even when they do move it's only axially to the crank because the cap is positively located laterally in the block (unless someone screwed up). Of course any movement is unacceptable, but it takes extremely high rpm's and loads to cause any movement and studs will normally prevent the issue.
I would take that article with a huge grain of salt, or maybe a whole salt lick I don't know the guy so I have no idea what his credibility is or sources are, but I sure wouldn't run a 950HP, 8,500 RPM stock GEN I block! There are just too many (comparatively) dirt cheap aftermarket blocks to even think about it. At that build level, we're talking about a $25K+ engine...$1500 or so for an aftermarket block is a very small part of that overall cost.
We all know you wouldn't do this, but that doesn't take away from the fact that it has been done before and it has worked.
I remember about 30 years ago reading an article about a 9000 rpm, 900 hp stock block motor that was being successfully campaigned. It was then stated at the end of the article that this was probably the limit for these blocks.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Just to clarify, the bolts relies on the threads that thread all the way in to the block pulling on the blocks threads while the studs are threaded on both ends resulting in more clamping force. A head or main bolt with threads all the way from head to the end would snap before you got it to torque spec. Anyway I was going to get into it but I have better things to do, must be getting soft in my old age
So does any one make a main gurdle for gm blocks, if such a thing exists. I remember seeing something along that line years back but don't remember who or for what.
Last edited by bluedawg; Dec 1, 2011 at 01:33 PM.
Reason: Can't spell worth a damn.
Nice motor, can't understand with 13:1cr and heads that flow 430cfm they are only getting 750HP, should be closer to 900-1000HP, I guess they want to play it on the safe side.
I wonder how much you have to shell out for this motor ?
Nice motor, can't understand with 13:1cr and heads that flow 430cfm they are only getting 750HP, should be closer to 900-1000HP, I guess they want to play it on the safe side.
I wonder how much you have to shell out for this motor ?
I agree - I have to think they're sandbagging a bit.
It's in the press release - $23,200K...which honestly ain't bad.
So does any one make a main gurdle for gm blocks, if such a thing exists. I remember seeing something along that line years back but don't remember who or for what.
The tops of the factory caps would need to be machined flat for the girdle...so if someone's spending that kind of money they would more likely pop for aftermarket steel 4-bolt conversion with splayed outer bolts...or buy a factory or aftermarket block with them already in place. But they are available for aftermarket caps.
The LS engine was designed from the ground up as an aluminum engine, could that have something to do with the great strength of the LSX blocks? Do they just pour cast iron into the same casting that they use for an aluminum block? That would make a pretty heavy, but super strong, block.