jcloving

Hello Everyone,

You may remember my last post about costs to replace my slippery clutch:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...76-l-48-a.html

I have decided to do it myself instead. I plan on getting a Centerforce I or a McLeod Street/Strip. I would like a mild upgrade over stock. My L-48 is all stock.

I also want to replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. What is the best gasket/seal P/N for that job?

Also, 'while I am at it' I want to do some other jobs in that area. Replacing the Z-hat bushings has already been mentioned. What other jobs should I do in that area?

Lastly, how can I support the engine with the tranny out and while I replace the main seal and oil pan gasket?

Many thanks to this great Forum,

John

jcloving

One more thing, from my research I think I have a 11", 26 spline clutch. Can you guys confirm this?

Thanks,

John

gcusmano74

An 11 inch diaphram clutch, with a 26 spline input shaft, on a 168 tooth flywheel, was typical for a mid 70's Corvette.
I put a Hays in my '74 small block last year. A bit stiffer than stock, but not too bad. It's easy to get carried away, and buy more clutch than you need for a street car.

gcusmano74

One more thing. When the rear engine mount is removed, the engine will tilt rearward until something stops it. Make sure it's not the distributor hitting the firewall- you could bend it. Don't ask me how I know.

jcloving

ttt

Shark Racer

A block of wood under the oil pan with a jack stand supporting it should be just fine.

However, your car is a 2 piece rear main seal which should be replaced from underneath, not behind. Go ahead and complete the clutch replacement, then do the oil pan as a separate task. Having the trans off won't make it any easier.

jcloving

Thanks Shark Racer and gcus!

glen242

I installed a CF II on what was my modified 350. Transferred it to my 383.

No problems.

jcloving

An update. I ordered:

FEL-1880 Oil pan gasket
FEL-2912 Rear main seal
MCL-75121 McLeod Clutch kit for 11", 26 spline
MOR-41100 Pilot Bearing

I will try to have the flywheel resurfaced, otherwise, will order new.

John

Shark Racer

I've always ordered new flywheels, but all of my jobs have been on the weekend and generally late at night when the flywheel is done. Have not had the luxury of being able to stow the car as I work in my driveway out in the open.

Good luck! It shouldn't be too bad if you're a decent mech.

billsfan

I would suggest using an engine hoist hooked to the rear engine hoist hook to support the rear of the engine. You'd have a real hard time removing the oil pan with the jackstand under it!!!

1974ta

if you do the clutch first you can do the oil pan by just dropping the pan.

No need to support the engine if trans is in place.

It was pretty simple. Did mine last winter.

Depending on the mileage you may want to change the timing chain while you are in there. That is what I did, but then again my 70 had 118k miles too.

Bill

Shark Racer

Hence why I suggested doing them as two separate tasks...

jcloving

Thanks guys. I will do the clutch and pan work separately.

jcloving

Hello Again,

The parts all came in and I started my work:






This was also a good time to buy new equipment so I got four new 6 ton jackstands, a 3 ton jack and a new creeper. I was careful and raised the car 20" off the ground.





I also have some back up jacks under the front and rear too. I am trying to be extra careful.

Day 1: I got the car up in the air and removed the Z-bar and rod to the fork.
Day 2 (today): I got the shift linkage and bracket loose and out of the car.

I will keep the updates coming,

John

N82RB

i see the first problem, your garage is WAY to clean.

iokepakai

Completed my auto to manual swap this August. Here's a few tips:
Drain the oil as soon as possible to allow the the least amount of drips when you remove the oil pan,the longer you drain the better
I used the anerobic sealant on the rear main cap in locations shown
http://www.corvettehacks.com/article5
Drop the idler arm at the frame to remove the oil pan.
You don't want to hear this but I wouldn't not use that pilot roller bearing unless you have a TKO trans.Too many stories of them failing.Autogear makes a great solid bushing.The Speed Direct clutch linkage is great,lots of adjustments and is smooth.Aloha's

jcloving

Day 3: speedo cable disconnected, reverse/parking cable disconnected. Driveshaft removed. Working on starter removal

jcloving

Thanks n8 and ioke,

I work hard to keep the garage clean. I did my share of shadetree work in my youth. This is much better.

I'll get a simple oil impregnated pilot bearing, I do have a puller.

jcloving

Day 4: I pulled this dirty thing out from underneath my Vette today.


It took me about 45 minutes to pull the six bolts that hold the bellhousing. The top drivers side bolt was the worst.


I pulled and pulled but it won't come loose. Does anyone have some tips for pulling the bellhousing? The inspection cover and starter motor have already been removed.