Door misalignment solution
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 53
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From: Lynnwood WA
Door misalignment solution
Hello all - this is for anyone who has/is experiencing a misalignment of their doors.
I recently bought a '69 coupe and both doors sat ajar in the closed position at the time of purchase. There are many reasons for door misalignment but mine was simple.
After a lot of research on this forum I took the car to a classic car build shop and was quoted about $2,000 to install new body mounts and align the doors, because they thought the mounts contributed to the misalignment.
Wanting other opinions I took it to a Corvette mechanical specialist in Seattle who gave me a tip about the strikers on the doors. I had previously fiddled with the strikers and got the drivers door to sit well but the passenger door was ajar about 3/8" in the closed position even with the striker at it's inward limit. He suggested moving it out (there is a two stage latching mechanism when the door closes. You can hear two audible clicks: The first is when the door latch closes over the striker and the second is when the latch clamps and locks over the striker. If you hear one click when slowly closing the door, it isn't completely shut).
I moved the passenger door striker outwards and after a few quick adjustments to it, the door fits nearly perfectly. It's counterintuitive to think that moving the striker out makes the door fit flush with the 1/4 panel, but that's what happens.
Saved $2,000 from that tip. The mounts probably do need replacing though. I am thinking of replacing the aluminum mounts with rubber to improve ride quality. I know this may increase the height of the body relative to the frame so I'm looking at what changes need to be done to body/frame mechanicals.
Hope this door tip helps. Cheers.
I recently bought a '69 coupe and both doors sat ajar in the closed position at the time of purchase. There are many reasons for door misalignment but mine was simple.
After a lot of research on this forum I took the car to a classic car build shop and was quoted about $2,000 to install new body mounts and align the doors, because they thought the mounts contributed to the misalignment.
Wanting other opinions I took it to a Corvette mechanical specialist in Seattle who gave me a tip about the strikers on the doors. I had previously fiddled with the strikers and got the drivers door to sit well but the passenger door was ajar about 3/8" in the closed position even with the striker at it's inward limit. He suggested moving it out (there is a two stage latching mechanism when the door closes. You can hear two audible clicks: The first is when the door latch closes over the striker and the second is when the latch clamps and locks over the striker. If you hear one click when slowly closing the door, it isn't completely shut).
I moved the passenger door striker outwards and after a few quick adjustments to it, the door fits nearly perfectly. It's counterintuitive to think that moving the striker out makes the door fit flush with the 1/4 panel, but that's what happens.
Saved $2,000 from that tip. The mounts probably do need replacing though. I am thinking of replacing the aluminum mounts with rubber to improve ride quality. I know this may increase the height of the body relative to the frame so I'm looking at what changes need to be done to body/frame mechanicals.
Hope this door tip helps. Cheers.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 5
From: N.Richland Hills Texas
I have the same issue.. But I think I would be avoiding the real problem by adjusting the striker... The body mounts are bad and allowing the body to "sag", move, whatever you want to call it... I'm changing the mounts then the doors...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 53
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From: Lynnwood WA
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PT...8-BL/?rtype=10
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
I wonder why that Summit ad copy says they only fit '63 to '69 when GM put solid aluminum in the '70, '71 and '72 models too.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 558
Likes: 22
From: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Last winter I changed the body mounts on my 72. Went from solid alum pucks to poly. It was relatively easy to do. It changed the height approx 3/8". Can't tell the difference. There's plenty of info on this swap on the forum.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 975
Likes: 108
From: Phoenix, AZ
Hello all - this is for anyone who has/is experiencing a misalignment of their doors.
I recently bought a '69 coupe and both doors sat ajar in the closed position at the time of purchase. There are many reasons for door misalignment but mine was simple.
After a lot of research on this forum I took the car to a classic car build shop and was quoted about $2,000 to install new body mounts and align the doors, because they thought the mounts contributed to the misalignment.
Wanting other opinions I took it to a Corvette mechanical specialist in Seattle who gave me a tip about the strikers on the doors. I had previously fiddled with the strikers and got the drivers door to sit well but the passenger door was ajar about 3/8" in the closed position even with the striker at it's inward limit. He suggested moving it out (there is a two stage latching mechanism when the door closes. You can hear two audible clicks: The first is when the door latch closes over the striker and the second is when the latch clamps and locks over the striker. If you hear one click when slowly closing the door, it isn't completely shut).
I moved the passenger door striker outwards and after a few quick adjustments to it, the door fits nearly perfectly. It's counterintuitive to think that moving the striker out makes the door fit flush with the 1/4 panel, but that's what happens.
Saved $2,000 from that tip. The mounts probably do need replacing though. I am thinking of replacing the aluminum mounts with rubber to improve ride quality. I know this may increase the height of the body relative to the frame so I'm looking at what changes need to be done to body/frame mechanicals.
Hope this door tip helps. Cheers.
I recently bought a '69 coupe and both doors sat ajar in the closed position at the time of purchase. There are many reasons for door misalignment but mine was simple.
After a lot of research on this forum I took the car to a classic car build shop and was quoted about $2,000 to install new body mounts and align the doors, because they thought the mounts contributed to the misalignment.
Wanting other opinions I took it to a Corvette mechanical specialist in Seattle who gave me a tip about the strikers on the doors. I had previously fiddled with the strikers and got the drivers door to sit well but the passenger door was ajar about 3/8" in the closed position even with the striker at it's inward limit. He suggested moving it out (there is a two stage latching mechanism when the door closes. You can hear two audible clicks: The first is when the door latch closes over the striker and the second is when the latch clamps and locks over the striker. If you hear one click when slowly closing the door, it isn't completely shut).
I moved the passenger door striker outwards and after a few quick adjustments to it, the door fits nearly perfectly. It's counterintuitive to think that moving the striker out makes the door fit flush with the 1/4 panel, but that's what happens.
Saved $2,000 from that tip. The mounts probably do need replacing though. I am thinking of replacing the aluminum mounts with rubber to improve ride quality. I know this may increase the height of the body relative to the frame so I'm looking at what changes need to be done to body/frame mechanicals.
Hope this door tip helps. Cheers.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Lynnwood WA
QUOTE=bhk2;1579588839]Thanks, any pics of this process for new folks?[/QUOTE]Sorry for the long delay. Attached is a photo of the striker on the driver's side. an 8MM Allen wrench fits perfectly. There is good adjustment side to side and a little vertically.
Be careful moving the striker. Take note of the position each time you tighten it. Holding the striker firmly with one hand while loosening the bolt allows you to precisely adjust it.
Please note that there are lots of reasons for door misalignment and adjusting the striker usually doesn't address the root cause. Others in this thread have pointed out some reasons.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 975
Likes: 108
From: Phoenix, AZ
Be careful moving the striker. Take note of the position each time you tighten it. Holding the striker firmly with one hand while loosening the bolt allows you to precisely adjust it.
Please note that there are lots of reasons for door misalignment and adjusting the striker usually doesn't address the root cause. Others in this thread have pointed out some reasons.[/QUOTE]
Very helpful, after seeing this I have more of a vertical adjustment need on driver's door, about 3/8" below rear quarter panel. Not sure this can be adjusted without pinching the gap at the front of the door. Thanks again for the pic.
