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Dash Wiring 12 volts not right

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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 10:07 PM
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Default Dash Wiring 12 volts not right

Help...I am totally stumped. I replaced the inop Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge with a new one and it nearly caught fire. I sent it back for a new one thinking it was defective. I wired the second gauge directly to the battery just to be sure the gauge worked. All was fine so I connected the gauge to the red wire the original inop gauge was connected. When I turned the key on (electric fuel pump) the gauge needle went down below zero the stop. I immediately turned off the power and checked the voltage. Sure enough 12 volts with the key on. I wired the gauge back to the battery to make sure it was working ok...it was (thank God). I tried it again but the needle would go south not up to the 40 psi I am looking for. I put the red wire of the gauge to the fuel pump relay 12v and it works fine. I have had the car since May and have only driven it a few miles. It has been highly "Bubba'ed" with disconnected wires everywhere. I have no problem installing a new wiring harness but would like to understand how it could be different on from one wire to the other...any help would be greatly appreciated...Brent
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:52 AM
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Good luck Brent. I also bought my 68 in May and have had electrical gremlins from nose to tail. Bubba spliced the heck out of the network. Got tired of chasing ghosts in the machine, so I bought all new harnesses and will start the upgrade after the holidays. Not that I want to do it, I need to.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 68thumper
...so I connected the gauge to the red wire the original inop gauge was connected.
Is that the correct wire according to your car's wiring diagram? Or are you just going by what Bubba did?
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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Sounds like perhaps a ground problem, your gauge is acting as ground / negative for much more load than it should be seeing?

Can you check the amp draw at the gauge connections when energized, and start using things until the meter jumps when it should not?
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Lupigiato73
Good luck Brent. I also bought my 68 in May and have had electrical gremlins from nose to tail. Bubba spliced the heck out of the network. Got tired of chasing ghosts in the machine, so I bought all new harnesses and will start the upgrade after the holidays. Not that I want to do it, I need to.
For piece of mind I am going to replace the dash wiring harness...I am looking at this for a ground system

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GW-34

and this for the 12 volts system

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FB-44

I am also considering this:

http://www.isispower.com/start.html?...FWU0Qgod7xiQSQ

I have researched through the forums the benefits of the ISIS system but have not seen many others with experience using it. Looks pretty neat.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Is that the correct wire according to your car's wiring diagram? Or are you just going by what Bubba did?
Just using the wire that the bad gauge was using. Here is another odd thing. I tried connecting the red wire of the new gauge to the 12 volt connections on the other gauges ie. fuel level, oil pressure etc...same thing..no can do. As soon as I touch the red wire of the new gauge to any of the hot terminal of any gauge the new gauge pegs down.
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by maxmachz
Sounds like perhaps a ground problem, your gauge is acting as ground / negative for much more load than it should be seeing?

Can you check the amp draw at the gauge connections when energized, and start using things until the meter jumps when it should not?
That's probably why the first replacement gauge smoked while the car was running. How do I check the amp draw without burning up the new gauge? Today I tried buttoning up the dash so I could take advantage of a real nice day and found out my Pioneer stereo won't power on. I tried using the power lead from the battery...no luck.
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