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How big are the tubes on your headers? I had a 86 Z-28 that I raced with a 383 in it. I had 1 5/8" headers. I talked a head pro about beefing up my heads he said he could rework the heads but the biggest problem was the small tubes on the headers. He recommended a minimum of 1 7/8" but 2" would be the best. Said the 383 engine couldn't breathe with the small tube headers. I put 1 7/8" headers on and gained .5 sec in the quarter mile.
below is a link to a thread where i posted the build sheets i got for the engine when i bought the car. it has compression data and timing data. this sheet and the data already posted is all i know about the engine
How big are the tubes on your headers? I had a 86 Z-28 that I raced with a 383 in it. I had 1 5/8" headers. I talked a head pro about beefing up my heads he said he could rework the heads but the biggest problem was the small tubes on the headers. He recommended a minimum of 1 7/8" but 2" would be the best. Said the 383 engine couldn't breathe with the small tube headers. I put 1 7/8" headers on and gained .5 sec in the quarter mile.
shorty headers (ugh) they look pretty small, the max id say they are 1 3/4 primarys and they go down to 2.5 collectors, straight pipes are 2.5 as well. was better than previous setup, shorty headers with 2.5 inch pipe to ORIGINAL mullfers from 1979. car was quiet as hell you heard the fan reving over the engine. for now we cut the mufflers off somewhere about where the trans is and it sounds good but could sound a little better. my friends 331 with 1 7/8 primarys and 3'' collectors sounds deeper and louder
- When you're at a stand still and then floor it, the car flies.
- When you're cruising and floor it, it also flies.
- When you're cruising and give throttle normally/gradually to increase speed it bogs down and/or picks up slowly.
Correct?
The bogging down, more so in the lower speeds? Or also when cruising at 60 mph?
standing still and floor it, it roars and throws you back but a second later your sitting there like WTF? why didnt that acceleration go anywhere or continue? same thing from a roll. lots of noise but no go im telling you in a dig race id be fearful of pretty much anything. my camaro with only 340rwhp would rape this car.
so to answer, from any postion, flooring it gives you literally a 2 second burst of hell yeah then boggs down considerably
Last edited by usnfenix; Dec 19, 2011 at 05:01 PM.
standing still and floor it, it roars and throws you back but a second later your sitting there like WTF? why didnt that acceleration go anywhere or continue? same thing from a roll. lots of noise but no go im telling you in a dig race id be fearful of pretty much anything. my camaro with only 340rwhp would rape this car.
so to answer, from any postion, flooring it gives you literally a 2 second burst of hell yeah then boggs down considerably
I'm no expert but I'm suspicious of that origional torque converter. If its weak it might be slipping. I'd look at replacing it anyway with a quality aftermarket higher stall. 2500 stall fine for the street.
hi there, I have the same feeling lack of power with my 81, 383, 700r4, 3.54 gears stock size converter 2200 stall,
Sure first gear is great lights up the tires but floor in in drive or leaving in 2nd or 3rd isnt that great . So after all my disspointment i ran it at the track 13.2 @ 103 i've since changed to an air gap manifold and tuning and run 12.5 @ 111 these seem to be pretty decent though my car still feels somewhat docile, I say run it at the track if you can to satisfy yourself, you maybe suprised. Yet I've been in cars that run high 13's that felt quiet scary and alot more powerful on the street. I've just had a custom 9.5" converter built and just about to install it , I hope to post results in near future
Nothing new here.
#1 Timing curve, Set up according to Barry K's Tech article
#2 Vacuum advance can, Again get the correct can for your setup, Read Barry K's tech article on this.
#3 Make sure your throttle plates are opening fully. This sounds like a no brainer but you would be suprised how many cars I have seen that swapped out the carb and didn't get this right.
#4 A/F ratio. Difficult to get right without an A/F meter but again there is a tech article on this.
Many good builds are done that the owner installs the engine and slaps the distributor and carb back on without making the neccesary adjustments to accomodate the internal engine changes then wonder why they don't get the performance increase they expected.
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