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I've been looking into replacing my bushings in my front control arms (uppers and lowers) and I can have them installed by a shop for about 300+ tax (that price was quoted for the bushings and ball joints)
If I could do it myself I would much rather do that. I've seen a few videos on replacing the bushings themselves, but I haven't seen how the shafts come off. Is this something your average joe like myself could do without wasting 300 bucks at a mechanics? I'd rather spend 300 bucks on the tools to do it, then blow it on labor.
Any advice would be great. And before anyone sends me the link to the corvette magazine article but I'm more of a visual learner, and being told to press them out doesn't do anything for me, I need visual aid.
Put them in the freezer overnight. Use an air hammer to remove. The vibration causes them bushings to slide out easily. Freeze the new bushing before you install. They slide in without difficulty.
I guess I don't know how to describe what I'm trying to ask.
Here's a picture of one of my control arms, this bar I have circled is what I'm confused about getting off, all of the videos or websites that show how to replace bushings already have this bar off, so I want to know how to get the bar off.
I know you take off the bolts on the side and that metal washer looking thing comes right off, so how do you get the bushings out with the bar attached?
One method is to drill a bunch of holes through the rubber and dig it out. Once the rubber is gone the shaft will come out. Another method is to burn the rubber out with a torch, very smoky.
The bar is trapped between the bushings, you have to remove the bushings (metal housing and all) and then the bar will slide through the larger holes of the a-frame. If you are installing poly bushings some of them use the stock metal housing and all you have to remove is the rubber portion of the stock bushing. It can be a messy job especially if you have to use heat but sometimes they will pop right out with an air hammer.
One method is to drill a bunch of holes through the rubber and dig it out. Once the rubber is gone the shaft will come out. Another method is to burn the rubber out with a torch, very smoky.
Ok thank you, that's where I was confused. I get the feeling this is going to take some time haha.
Zapawaf:
first, fill in your profile to include an approximate geograpic location ... it'll help get you proper help in future ... no we don't want your street address.
If you're gonna install RUBBER OE type bushings ... pay an expert to accept risk of bending your arms ... BUT ...
If IF you want polyurethane bushings (Energy Suspension brand) you can get old RUBBER segment out with a penknife & $10 hole saw (or a drill bit or torch) ... leaving & reusing the now clean OLD outer shell still stuck in arm ... then, just slide a NEW metal innner sleeve onto shaft and slide in a NEW poly segment. This been described here ad nauseum ... search my name & polyurethane ... more detail there ... have old t-shirt. You can get a front end rebuild kit from Van Steel for good value$ that'll have poly bushings & balljoints.
Merry Christmas
I'd rather spend 300 bucks on the tools to do it, then blow it on labor.
I try to live by this rule...that said, I agree that $300 is cheap for this job for parts & labor IF it includes good parts (Made-in-the-USA Moog!). If instead you are talking about parts-store "oem replacement" parts, you run the risk of having to replace some of those parts--like a lower ball joint--much sooner than you might like. Ask me how I know this
Retail on Moog ball joints & bushings for C3 front control arms is right at $190 (Rockauto), so if that's what the estimate includes, I'd say let the shop do it; otherwise, try it yourself:
I have the poly bushings on order but not the inner sleeves, could somebody show me exactly what I'd be looking for? And I actually have the MOOG ball joints on the way as well. Figured I might as well spend a little more now, and save myself headache in the future.
It helps to know where you are from because if there is someone else on the forum that lives near by, they might just stop over and give you a hand and share a beer.
i did it my self, and it was a bit of a bitch. getting the old balljoints off took a lot of grinding, and an air hammer. as for the bushings, i just burnt those out, so that was easy enough.
installing the balljoints was easy and only took a socket wrench. the bushings sat in a freezer over night, lubbed up with marine grease, and had to be pressed in. the worst part about it was building a support structure for the A arms, so i didnt crush or bend them in my press.
I have the poly bushings on order but not the inner sleeves, could somebody show me exactly what I'd be looking for? And I actually have the MOOG ball joints on the way as well. Figured I might as well spend a little more now, and save myself headache in the future.
Well this is what I had ordered before I posted this, cause regardless if I do it myself or not, it's still cheaper I buy the parts then the shop. http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1982.html Says it has outer sleeves but says nothing about an inner sleeves.
I apologize if my questions seem stupid, I'm learning as I go. Maybe a Corvette isn't the best car for a first restoration, but it's what I got.
This is an important job for you suspension. Probably more C3's than not need to have a complete front suspension rebuild, mainly just due to age and not always mileage.
I did this job last spring. Tracdogg2 helped me remove the old bushings and hammered in the new ones with a special tool he made for this specific job. He used an impact hammer with some sort of chisel bit to remove them while I stood on them with my weight.
If your not careful you can bend your A arms if you install them on a press.
I did a complete thread on this with pics. You will need to cut the rivets off with a impact hammer for the lower ball joints. I had all my front end suspension pieces blasted and powder coated. They turned out very nice. Your above parts look right for the bushings.
Good luck.
I just did this exact project. I drilled a bunch of holes through the old rubber bushings and then using a wrench I turned the shaft until all the old rubber came out. Then you remove the shaft. After that I found a neat trick on you tube where you remove the blade from your hack saw put it into the bushing hole then re-attach the blade to your hack saw frame. Now you slowly cut through the remainig metal bushing. Once you cut through it it collapeses and you can tap it out. After doing that I sand blasted the arms painted them and then brought them to an automotive machine shop. They pressed in my new bushigns for $80, this included all 4 control arms.
I do not KNOW who mfgs Eckler's poly ... might be Prothane, might be Energy Suspension
Prothane probably has all 3 parts ... I KNOW Energy Suspension does and can be acquired from many reputable vendors including Van Steel.
The poly technique I've used, espouse & reference above does NOT remove the old outer shell from front control arm; old shell is simply DE-rubbered & reloaded w/ poly.
I used a hydraulic press to push my A-Arm bushings out. Easy as pie, but you need access to a press. You're getting some good advice here. I'd say give the A-Arms to the guy, have him press the old bushings out and you do the install. Putting them in is way easier than getting them out. Plus you'll save a bit of money and get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Just an update.
I used a handful of tricks learned from on here and on youtube, like the hacksaw trick someone mentioned.
Ended up just using a grinder to get the ball joints off the uppers and using the grinder to put cuts in the outer sleeve, dented using a hammer and chisel while having the arm itself secured, then tapped it out with a hammer as well. Worked pretty slick once I did the first.
Also tried the freezer trick to pop the new bushing out of the sleeve, worked like a charm. But I think I may still have the guy install everything because I don't have a press and I don't want to bend the arms. I'm hoping since all the guy will have to do is press the new ones in and install the new joints it should be cheaper, but still done right. We shall see.
The lowers are being a pain, the bolts won't come off, it just spins the shaft, and I don't have enough time to mess around with it before work, so I'll give it a shot tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for you help thus far