Installed a Mallory UNILITE Conversion Kit but won't start

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Dec 23, 2011 | 11:33 AM

cokerintennessee

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Installed a Mallory UNILITE Conversion Kit but won't start

I've just installed a new Mallory Unilite Conversion in my Mallory Distributor. When I crank it, it seems to fire up and rev but then dies, almost like I shut the key off. I did not change the timing. I did have to make a value judgement concerning using a Ballast Resistor as I did not have one installed using the old dual points and condenser set up. Any ideas on what I should try next? Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all!

Ron

Dec 23, 2011 | 11:59 AM

gkull

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From: Reno Nevada

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified

You need the ballast resistor and wire it like the directions. You are exhibiting the common failure of the ballast R where the car runs when the starter is engaged and shuts of when the ignition is just "ON"

Dec 23, 2011 | 12:23 PM

Big Block 69

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From: Southeast Ohio

I agree with gkull. Your symptoms sound just like a 60's Chrysler product with a bad ballast resistor.

Dec 23, 2011 | 01:11 PM

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Block 69

I agree with gkull. Your symptoms sound just like a 60's Chrysler product with a bad ballast resistor.

Just ordered one on line. Hope that fixes it! Thank you for taking your time to respond. Merry Christmas!

Dec 23, 2011 | 01:11 PM

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gkull

Just ordered one on line. Hope that fixes it! Thank you for taking your time to respond. Merry Christmas!

Dec 23, 2011 | 01:43 PM

69427

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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cokerintennessee

I've just installed a new Mallory Unilite Conversion in my Mallory Distributor. When I crank it, it seems to fire up and rev but then dies, almost like I shut the key off. I did not change the timing. I did have to make a value judgement concerning using a Ballast Resistor as I did not have one installed using the old dual points and condenser set up. Any ideas on what I should try next? Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all!

Ron

I'm assuming you had a substitute wire (in lieu of the ballast) on your points setup. If that was still hooked up I would assume the new setup should start too. Was that wire removed? Also, does the Unilite require a ballast, or does the module control the current level?

Dec 23, 2011 | 01:56 PM

gkull

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From: Reno Nevada

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69427

I ran the M Unilite for 10 years and it said to use a BR You can look at the wiring setup online.

http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...1214M_0000.pdf

Dec 23, 2011 | 02:01 PM

DRIVESHAFT

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From: League City TX

The unilite requires a balast resistor if you are not using the OEM resistance wire.
Unless that wire has been removed/bypassed, there is no need for an additional ballast resistor.

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Dec 23, 2011 | 02:03 PM

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 69427

The instructions which came with the Unline states: "The purpose of an ignition ballast resistor between the ignition switch (12V) and the ignition coil positive terminal is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil. Failure to use an ignition ballast resistor will eventually destroy the Ignition Module." And yes, I had a substitute wire running from the ignition switch to the positive pole on the coil when I was running the dual point/condenser set up.

Dec 23, 2011 | 02:09 PM

#10

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gkull

I ran the M Unilite for 10 years and it said to use a BR You can look at the wiring setup online.

http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...1214M_0000.pdf

Just so I am clear as to what I have installed, I've installed a "Conversion Kit"....not a new distributor. Thanks

Dec 23, 2011 | 02:13 PM

#11

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gkull

I ran the M Unilite for 10 years and it said to use a BR You can look at the wiring setup online.

http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por...1214M_0000.pdf

My installation is consistent with Figure #1....with the exception that I used an older ballast resister. I'm hoping that is the problem. I've got one on the way and should be hear after Christmas. Still open for more ideas to try. Thanks! and Merry Christmas!

Dec 23, 2011 | 02:16 PM

#12

gkull

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From: Reno Nevada

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified

Quote:

Originally Posted by cokerintennessee

You can put a wire to jumper the resistor out. Or just Ohm meter it to see if the BR reads 1.0 - 1.4 ohms

Dec 24, 2011 | 12:37 PM

#13

Turbotrad

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From: Aptos, CA

You also do not need a ballast resistor in the set up if you use one of three types of Mallory brand coils.

Last edited by Turbotrad; Dec 24, 2011 at 12:46 PM.

Dec 24, 2011 | 02:33 PM

#14

hdpete98

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From: Carlsbad CA

do you have 2 wires going to your coil? One comes from the starter and provides additional current when cranking. once you release the ignition key swith and it returns to the on position, the current is cut and is supplied through the second wire that is part of wiring coming from ignition switch. If the second wire is not connected, your engine will die as if you turned of key because, effectively, that is what you have done if second wire not attached.

Dec 24, 2011 | 02:40 PM

#15

hdpete98

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Check out the diagram at this web site. Should explain what I am saying in previous post.

http://americanstreetmasters.com/Wiring_101_5.jpg

Dec 27, 2011 | 11:44 AM

#16

cokerintennessee

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Mallory is telling me I have the wrong coil (points type) model #29217. Mallory is suggesting model #30450 or #29450. HATE to lose the look of the old canister style coil.....

Dec 27, 2011 | 05:38 PM

#17

69427

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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cokerintennessee

Mallory is telling me I have the wrong coil (points type) model #29217. Mallory is suggesting model #30450 or #29450. HATE to lose the look of the old canister style coil.....

What's the electrical differences between these coils?

Dec 27, 2011 | 05:44 PM

#18

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 69427

What's the electrical differences between these coils?

This is the coil I currently have installed:
http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...coil-2339.html

This is the coil Mallory recommends for the Unilite Converstion:
http://store.prestoliteperformance.c...coil-2347.html

Dec 27, 2011 | 08:09 PM

#19

69427

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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cokerintennessee

There is absolutely no useful information in either of those links. My suggestion is to either call Mallory and ask for some actual information/specs on these coils and your module, or throw the whole mess in the trash can and buy a brand who's not afraid to tell you what you're actually getting.

Also, if the tech rep has to ask you what info you need, you are correct to assume he doesn't know WTH he's doing.

Last edited by 69427; Dec 28, 2011 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Spelling correction.

Jan 8, 2012 | 06:27 PM

#20

cokerintennessee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 69427

I've now installed the new coil with the Unilite conversion. I've taken the resister out of the positive electrical line from the ignition/starter/ + line to the coil. The motor fires up, runs for 2 seconds and then cuts off. New ideas?

Thanks in advance

Ron

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