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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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Haven't started my old 73 in about a year. Recently got it running again but smokes, adjusted air/fuel and got that stopped. Tried to start it again today, ran rough and backfiring. Died and now it will not start again. Getting fuel and fire. Replaced the coil, points and condensor just to make sure not getting weak fire. Still won't start but has a strong fuel smell like it is flooding badly. What would have created the rough idle/backfiring condition prior to this occuring? Removed the distributor cap, rotor is turning. Plugs recently changed and gapped properly as is the points. Have all the elements for it to start and run but no go. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MidTex73
Haven't started my old 73 in about a year. Recently got it running again but smokes, adjusted air/fuel and got that stopped. Tried to start it again today, ran rough and backfiring. Died and now it will not start again. Getting fuel and fire. Replaced the coil, points and condensor just to make sure not getting weak fire. Still won't start but has a strong fuel smell like it is flooding badly. What would have created the rough idle/backfiring condition prior to this occuring? Removed the distributor cap, rotor is turning. Plugs recently changed and gapped properly as is the points. Have all the elements for it to start and run but no go. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
BTW- the Qjet was completely rebuilt prior to the car being parked a year ago.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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From your discription the first think I would check is the distributor cap. They are nortorious for hairline cracks and moisture that causes that type of problems.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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would also put some fresh fuel in it, especially if it was parked a year ago with any ethanol fuel in it.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Mo
From your discription the first think I would check is the distributor cap. They are nortorious for hairline cracks and moisture that causes that type of problems.
Thanks! The distributor cap was installed new a year ago, suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace it again just to be sure. Thanks again!
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by speedreed8
would also put some fresh fuel in it, especially if it was parked a year ago with any ethanol fuel in it.
Fuel has been replaced with fresh. Still doing the same thing. Thanks!
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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Right off hand it sounds like a vacuum leak.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Roco71
Right off hand it sounds like a vacuum leak.
Thanks! All the vacuum lines were replaced last year, will double check to make sure none of them are loose and leaking.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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How many miles? Might want to check timing ...and or chain...put a socket wrench on the crank turn it a little with the distributor cap off. When the rotor moves a little stop and go the other way. Too much play might mean time to change the chain.... Good luck
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Don't forget to check the spark plugs or better replace them.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Based on the possible flooding description my first thought was float prolems and/or sticky needle & seat. There's a lot of info if you do a Google search on "Qjet needle and seat". Here's just one link that covers that and a few other possibilities. Good luck.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=202866
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Deandarien
How many miles? Might want to check timing ...and or chain...put a socket wrench on the crank turn it a little with the distributor cap off. When the rotor moves a little stop and go the other way. Too much play might mean time to change the chain.... Good luck
Haven't tried that yet, no timing light. Did pull the distributor cap and cranked it over the rotor does move. Will try the socket in the morning. Thanks! BTW- it has just over 80k on the odometer.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fanmanbd
Don't forget to check the spark plugs or better replace them.
Thanks! New spark plugs going in in the morning.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Deandarien
How many miles? Might want to check timing ...and or chain...put a socket wrench on the crank turn it a little with the distributor cap off. When the rotor moves a little stop and go the other way. Too much play might mean time to change the chain.... Good luck
I turned the crank with a socket, saw little or no play when moving the rotor. I guess that rules out the chain. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 11:04 PM
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Did you check for spark?

Don't count out bad fuel in the carb. I'm not sure how your car was stored, but gas is awful when you let it sit. I spent the better part of this afternoon soaking the fuel bowl and jets on my dirt bike because I let it sit for three months without draining the fuel bowl. The pilot jet was totally obstructed and the needle was gummed up and stuck in the seat. So.. you could have plugged up jets or stuck floats/needle in your carb if you let it sit with gas.

Last edited by pancake; Jan 2, 2012 at 11:06 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by pancake
Did you check for spark?

Don't count out bad fuel in the carb. I'm not sure how your car was stored, but gas is awful when you let it sit. I spent the better part of this afternoon soaking the fuel bowl and jets on my dirt bike because I let it sit for three months without draining the fuel bowl. The pilot jet was totally obstructed and the needle was gummed up and stuck in the seat. So.. you could have plugged up jets or stuck floats/needle in your carb if you let it sit with gas.
Thanks! I do have spark, bowl was drained prior to storing it as well as the fuel line being disconnected and plugged off.
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 01:19 PM
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Ok guys, new spark plugs, wires,cap,rotor,condensor, points. Turned the rotor via socket on the crank with little or no play. Double checked all the vacuum lines (previously new) all fit snugly. Looks like I'm either going to rebuild the old Qjet again or find a suitable replacement, plug removed were all black and smelled of gasoline, getting plenty of fire. Any other suggestions? All opinions are appreciated!
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Two things...you didn't mention where you're holding the gas pedal while cranking; and your choke may be sticking. It sounds to me that everything that might be causing a problem has already been looked at and/or corrected. Give it a couple squirts of gas before you crank it then hold the pedal to the floor and see if it tries to start. If that does nothing pull a valve cover and start comparing rocker movement...hate to say it but all that time sitting may have caused a cam lobe or twelve to go flat very quickly after a dry startup...it ran (kinda) for a few minutes while it was grinding the lobes off the cam. If that's what you find, STOP. You'll just be pumping metal chips through your motor. best of luck; hopefully it's just an easily correctable carb issue and not the latter...
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by birdsmith
Two things...you didn't mention where you're holding the gas pedal while cranking; and your choke may be sticking. It sounds to me that everything that might be causing a problem has already been looked at and/or corrected. Give it a couple squirts of gas before you crank it then hold the pedal to the floor and see if it tries to start. If that does nothing pull a valve cover and start comparing rocker movement...hate to say it but all that time sitting may have caused a cam lobe or twelve to go flat very quickly after a dry startup...it ran (kinda) for a few minutes while it was grinding the lobes off the cam. If that's what you find, STOP. You'll just be pumping metal chips through your motor. best of luck; hopefully it's just an easily correctable carb issue and not the latter...
I appreciate the suggestion. I did try pouring a little gas in the carb and held the pedal down while starting, however, I haven't tried that since I've changed out everything. The choke is in the full closed position, should it be? It's a divorced choke with vacuum line coming from the carb. It started and ran about a week ago but was smoking, figured it might be the valve seals but it didn't go away until I re-adjusted the air/fuel then it became minute. It ran the better part of 3 hours while I made the adjustments. Haven't pulled the valve covers yet, almost afraid it will be alot worse than I imagined. The last time I started it, it ran but ran rough and backfired a couple of times, figured it was a timing issue but it ran well the week before?
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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If you can bolt on a carb that you know works properly you can definitively determine whether it's the carb or not. After everything else that you've done that would be my next step.
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