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Oil Pan Removal

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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #1  
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From: Hamilton Ontario
Default Oil Pan Removal

Hi again,

need some more tips before I tackle this next job. I have spoken to my mechanic and searched "how to" from the internet on how to remove the oil pan from my 79 vette. It has the usual stock 350 small block in it. I want to do the job myself, but I get conflicting info about how best to do it due to clearances etc. I am looking for a tried and true way (if there is one) on doing this job with the front end up on ramps or jack stands.

Help

...and thanks.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:11 PM
  #2  
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From: Doha
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Default

I did it twice in my big block 'vette, so yours should be much easier, first thing to do is to disconnect the idler arm from the frame and lower the steering link down a bit, then if you have the stock GM starter (the large one) you have to remove it to gain access to the bolts, then rotate the engine so you are 180* down from the TDC (in other words you put your #1 piston to TDC, it doesnt matter if its the firing or the exhaust stroke, and then rotate the crank more one half turn), then just unbolt the oil pan and slide it out. I wrote that off my head so I may forgot a step or two, but pretty much thats about it. Not hard at all, just time consuming, so take your time.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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From: Ontario
Default

Originally Posted by HamadUP
I did it twice in my big block 'vette, so yours should be much easier, first thing to do is to disconnect the idler arm from the frame and lower the steering link down a bit, then if you have the stock GM starter (the large one) you have to remove it to gain access to the bolts, then rotate the engine so you are 180* down from the TDC (in other words you put your #1 piston to TDC, it doesnt matter if its the firing or the exhaust stroke, and then rotate the crank more one half turn), then just unbolt the oil pan and slide it out. I wrote that off my head so I may forgot a step or two, but pretty much thats about it. Not hard at all, just time consuming, so take your time.
If he has stock exhaust he will have to contend with the front Y-pipe as well. In other words it has to come off. Then you are into corroded exhaust manifold studs and a possibly seized junction with the intermediate pipe.Things can get difficult without a torch.




Last edited by Paul L; Jan 4, 2012 at 01:05 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:17 PM
  #4  
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From: Hamilton Ontario
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I have dual exhaust straight back from the manifolds. No headers, no catalytic converters.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #5  
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Default

Originally Posted by HamadUP
I did it twice in my big block 'vette, so yours should be much easier, first thing to do is to disconnect the idler arm from the frame and lower the steering link down a bit, then if you have the stock GM starter (the large one) you have to remove it to gain access to the bolts, then rotate the engine so you are 180* down from the TDC (in other words you put your #1 piston to TDC, it doesnt matter if its the firing or the exhaust stroke, and then rotate the crank more one half turn), then just unbolt the oil pan and slide it out. I wrote that off my head so I may forgot a step or two, but pretty much thats about it. Not hard at all, just time consuming, so take your time.
The only thing I did on my small block was to pull the idler arm loose and swing it out of the way. I never touched the starter nor did I have trouble clearing the #1 crank lobe. BB is no doubt more involved.
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #6  
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From: Baldwinsville, NY
Default Do not forget to disconnect the battery

Disconnect the battery,
Drain the oil and remove oil filter,
Drop the starter,
Remove the transmission cover plate,
Drop the steering cylinder,
Drop the idler arm,
Remove the oil pan bolts,
Clean the engine were the new seal will go,
Use a one piece seal for 79 corvette 350,
Check oil pump inlet for popper depth to new oil pan,
Install new seal with sealant in the corners only,
Install pan,
Install steering cylinder,
Install idler arm,
Install transmission access cover,
Install starter,
Fill with new oil and new oil filter,
Connect battery,

Did I mention to Disconnect the Battery, the Starter is very Hot!
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #7  
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From: Fairfield California
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I did this on my 72 350 recently. As stated above all that was required was to remove the idler arm from the frame to make room to remove the pan. I did not have to remove anthing else.
Clean the gasket surface and be careful torquing those small pan bolts. I forget the exact torque specs but they seem like they would strip pretty easy if you put the 'guns' on them. Might not be a bad time to check the rear main seal while you are at it.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #8  
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From: A 12/8 man in a 4/4 world
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Thanks for the info.

One of my projects this year is replacing the rear main seal.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:57 AM
  #9  
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From: BC
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To ensure a nice sweat free seal remove any traces of oil from the sealing surfaces with aerosol brake cleaner. Glue the side rail pieces to the block with a very thin bead of 3M weatherstripping cement. A dob of RTV sealant at the corners where the end and side pieces meet. Keep greasy hands off the pan when installing. If this is all new to you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec. Too loose, the result is obvious. Too tight and you will split the gasket. Corner bolts (5/16" bolt size)are tighter than side bolts (1/4").
Steve g
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