Weird Starter Problem
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Wellesley Island New York
Weird Starter Problem
I replaced the factory type starter with a High Torque starter, to remedy a problem I was having breaking the nose cone on them. Anyways.. Since installing the new starter, I burned out the toggle switch that turns the power on, ( I have a push button start, w/ on/off toggle) I'm not sure if this is related to the new issue, which is this... When I connect the battery the bendix gear spins but the bendix doesn't kick out. I fear that the starter burned up, but this is a brand new starter. I'm not running any fuses to it (not sure if I'm suppose too) This happened all of a sudden when I was trying to start it to pull it back into the garage. Because of my previous starter problems, I use starting fluid to help get a quick start. I had sprayed the card and tried to start it, when I released the push button, the bendix was still going. I hit the kill switch, and it still turned. I disconnected the kill switch, and hooked the battery back and it still spins. Any Ideas?
Mike
Mike
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From: BC
You have the battery cable connected to the wrong stud on the starter or a wire mounted on the correct stud that is also touching the other large stud, assuming it has the gm type starter mounted solenoid.
The starter nose pieces were breaking because of excessive timing advance at startup.
Steve g
The starter nose pieces were breaking because of excessive timing advance at startup.
Steve g
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From: BC
Normal operation is that the magnetic relay of the solenoid is energized which pulls a plunger back. The plunger is connected to the drive through levers. On the back of the plunger is the contact disc that then connects the batt stud to the starter stud. So in operation the key switch energizes the magnet, the plunger moves back pushing the drive into the flywheel. When it gets to the end of it's stroke the contact disc hits the two studs and provides power to the motor windings.
Steve g
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From: Wellesley Island New York
So where should I start to fix this? I have the battery hooked directly to the large stud on the back of the starter, also I have another wire going to the same stud on the starter I think it is wired to the on/off toggle. To the small stud it is the wire for the Push button start.
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From: BC
So where should I start to fix this? I have the battery hooked directly to the large stud on the back of the starter, also I have another wire going to the same stud on the starter I think it is wired to the on/off toggle. To the small stud it is the wire for the Push button start.
Steve g
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From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Just how many starters have you broken? If it's more than one, then you have a problem with either the mounting of them or, as Steve said, the timing is way too advanced.
You need to first make absolutely certain that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is in the correct position. When the balancers get old, the rubber ring between the two metal parts can fail and cause the outer metal ring ( with the timing mark on it ) to move in relation to the hub.
Unless you verify that the timing mark is where it is supposed to be, then you cannot be sure that your timing is accurate. Once you are absolutely sure that the timing mark is where it should be, then set your timing to factory specs.
If that is all good, then you have to make sure that the starter is mounted correctly. I don't know how one could be incorrectly fitted, but maybe the mounting holes in the block are not exactly where they should be, or are worn and the bolts are a loose fit. It stands to reason that the centre lines of both the starter and crankshaft must be absolutely parallel for everything to spin smoothly.
Check and get back to us.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
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From: Wellesley Island New York
The timing has been checked and rechecked, this is not the issue. The mounting may be the issue for the broken starters. I got tired of trying to mess with it, which is why I bought the high torque starter. I think I may have been trying to put the wrong starter all together in, once I got the new starter, it worked and sounded great, as opposed to the other starters.
The studs are the way you described them. The 2 large studs, one has the strap going into the starter from the selinoid. Ill put a picture up soon
The studs are the way you described them. The 2 large studs, one has the strap going into the starter from the selinoid. Ill put a picture up soon
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From: mount holly NC
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Sounds like you have 2 problems.
The only way for the bendix to turn is to supply 12 volts to the "S" terminal.
#1-make sure your new "Start" switch shuts off.
#2-make sure the solenoid is good.
#1-make sure your new "Start" switch shuts off.
#2-make sure the solenoid is good.
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From: BC
The timing has been checked and rechecked, this is not the issue. The mounting may be the issue for the broken starters. I got tired of trying to mess with it, which is why I bought the high torque starter. I think I may have been trying to put the wrong starter all together in, once I got the new starter, it worked and sounded great, as opposed to the other starters.
The studs are the way you described them. The 2 large studs, one has the strap going into the starter from the selinoid. Ill put a picture up soon
The studs are the way you described them. The 2 large studs, one has the strap going into the starter from the selinoid. Ill put a picture up soon
Steve g
