I replaced the factory type starter with a High Torque starter, to remedy a problem I was having breaking the nose cone on them. Anyways.. Since installing the new starter, I burned out the toggle switch that turns the power on, ( I have a push button start, w/ on/off toggle) I'm not sure if this is related to the new issue, which is this... When I connect the battery the bendix gear spins but the bendix doesn't kick out. I fear that the starter burned up, but this is a brand new starter. I'm not running any fuses to it (not sure if I'm suppose too) This happened all of a sudden when I was trying to start it to pull it back into the garage. Because of my previous starter problems, I use starting fluid to help get a quick start. I had sprayed the card and tried to start it, when I released the push button, the bendix was still going. I hit the kill switch, and it still turned. I disconnected the kill switch, and hooked the battery back and it still spins. Any Ideas?

Mike

 

You have the battery cable connected to the wrong stud on the starter or a wire mounted on the correct stud that is also touching the other large stud, assuming it has the gm type starter mounted solenoid.

The starter nose pieces were breaking because of excessive timing advance at startup.

Steve g

 

The starter had worked when I initially installed it.. So I'm sure that it is wired properly.

 

Current is going from the battery cable stud on the sol directly to the starter stud on the sol. It's either external between the 2 studs or internal to the sol. That is the only way the motor can spin without the drive extending.
Normal operation is that the magnetic relay of the solenoid is energized which pulls a plunger back. The plunger is connected to the drive through levers. On the back of the plunger is the contact disc that then connects the batt stud to the starter stud. So in operation the key switch energizes the magnet, the plunger moves back pushing the drive into the flywheel. When it gets to the end of it's stroke the contact disc hits the two studs and provides power to the motor windings.

Steve g

 

So where should I start to fix this? I have the battery hooked directly to the large stud on the back of the starter, also I have another wire going to the same stud on the starter I think it is wired to the on/off toggle. To the small stud it is the wire for the Push button start.

 

I need to see a pic of this aftermarket starter. Are there not to large studs, one above the other like the oe starter? The lower stud has the strap on it that goes into the body of the starter?

Steve g

 

Mike,

Just how many starters have you broken? If it's more than one, then you have a problem with either the mounting of them or, as Steve said, the timing is way too advanced.

You need to first make absolutely certain that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is in the correct position. When the balancers get old, the rubber ring between the two metal parts can fail and cause the outer metal ring ( with the timing mark on it ) to move in relation to the hub.

Unless you verify that the timing mark is where it is supposed to be, then you cannot be sure that your timing is accurate. Once you are absolutely sure that the timing mark is where it should be, then set your timing to factory specs.

If that is all good, then you have to make sure that the starter is mounted correctly. I don't know how one could be incorrectly fitted, but maybe the mounting holes in the block are not exactly where they should be, or are worn and the bolts are a loose fit. It stands to reason that the centre lines of both the starter and crankshaft must be absolutely parallel for everything to spin smoothly.

Check and get back to us.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

 

The timing has been checked and rechecked, this is not the issue. The mounting may be the issue for the broken starters. I got tired of trying to mess with it, which is why I bought the high torque starter. I think I may have been trying to put the wrong starter all together in, once I got the new starter, it worked and sounded great, as opposed to the other starters.

The studs are the way you described them. The 2 large studs, one has the strap going into the starter from the selinoid. Ill put a picture up soon

 

The only way for the bendix to turn is to supply 12 volts to the "S" terminal.
#1-make sure your new "Start" switch shuts off.
#2-make sure the solenoid is good.

 

I don't understand how a high torque starter would fix a problem involving cracking nose cones. I would think it would just make it worse.


Scott

 

The lower stud is getting power without the solenoid being energized. This is how the starter will spin without the drive extended as soon as the batt cable is connected. As I mentioned, if the batt cable is to the top (one without the strap into starter body) there is either something hanging down from it touching the lower stud or there is an internal solenoid problem where the two studs are constantly connected.

Steve g