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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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From: Douglas Georgia
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Guys I'm prepping my 82 CE for a trip to the paint shop. What body filler should be used to fill the small gouges that I am doing removing the stripes and decals? I have done a search here and Internet research but ended up more confused than ever. There seems to be different Types of glass and the opinions of epoxy verses other types.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Hello Charles. If you plan to strip the paint (highly recommended) I would leave the nick repair to the paint shop since there will likely be other small areas which need attention. Even though the paint on your car is in excellent shape, it is 30 years old and not the most stable base to apply new color on.

Even if you intend to sand/reshoot over the original paint I would leave the nick repair to the shop since they will certainly block sand the surface in preparation and the nicks will diminish somewhat in that process requiring less filler. The car should look absolutely spectacular in new livery, and the NOS decal package!!! Post lots of pics please.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:52 PM
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i would go here and ask questionshttp://forums.corvetteforum.com/paint-body-138/ they have some good advice.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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From: Douglas Georgia
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Originally Posted by markids77
Hello Charles. If you plan to strip the paint (highly recommended) I would leave the nick repair to the paint shop since there will likely be other small areas which need attention. Even though the paint on your car is in excellent shape, it is 30 years old and not the most stable base to apply new color on.

Even if you intend to sand/reshoot over the original paint I would leave the nick repair to the shop since they will certainly block sand the surface in preparation and the nicks will diminish somewhat in that process requiring less filler. The car should look absolutely spectacular in new livery, and the NOS decal package!!! Post lots of pics please.
Thanks Mark but I want to do this myself. I'm taking my time and stripping it and doing the blocking before it goes away, remember this is therapy for me.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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In that case consult with your painter and follow his (her?) recommendation. All painters have certain materials they prefer and since the painter must stand behind the finished job I would involve him from the start. He might have an opinion on how to remove the current finish as well. Have fun with this, take your time and be really detail oriented; any missteps in prep will show in the final product.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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Oh, and if I can help in any way please let me know!!!!
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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If you are doing it yourself, sand off the stripes and graphics. No nicks to fill.

Unless you've laid on your blade, your nicks are likely to only be in the paint. Factory primer underneath is likely to be okay.

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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I may be wrong but I believe you can apply heat to take the decals off without nicking up the paint. As mentioned earlier check with whoever is going to do the paint.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by markids77
In that case consult with your painter and follow his (her?) recommendation. All painters have certain materials they prefer and since the painter must stand behind the finished job I would involve him from the start. He might have an opinion on how to remove the current finish as well. Have fun with this, take your time and be really detail oriented; any missteps in prep will show in the final product.
Good advice Mark. I did that and was told not only what materials to use but the type of primer and how he expected me to do it. Thanks
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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I was determined to do most all the Filling and Sanding myself as well. I spend Weeks doing the Therapy myself, or was that Months. When I droped it off at the Painter they walked up to the Car and started in on it with a DA Sander. Lesson Learned.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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The following may sound odd, or demented but it is a truth. If you have not yet begun removing the original paint on your 82 spend some time with your eyes closed and first run your fingertips, then your entire hand (flattened) lightly over the entire automobile. Your sense of touch is vastly more sensitive to sharp edges and waviness than your eyes could ever be. An hour or two spent "feeling up" the contours of your factory original panels will give you a sensual baseline for how the car should "feel" when it is "right". Trust me, you will remember the "correct" sensations as you refine the surface in preparation for paint.

If you have begun paint removal, choose a newer vehicle in your fleet... perhaps your truck and practice "seeing" the surface using only touch. You will be amazed at how detailed a surface map of the panels you can construct with your eyes closed. This is the secret to winding up with a "laser straight" paint finish!
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