Horn contact problems
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Horn contact problems
Hey all, once more.
I've rebuilt the rest of the T&T column on my '79 but the whole horn contact is rigid and doesn't move, the horn also does not blow.
Any idea of what I may have done wrong or missed?
I've rebuilt the rest of the T&T column on my '79 but the whole horn contact is rigid and doesn't move, the horn also does not blow.
Any idea of what I may have done wrong or missed?
Le Mans Master
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From: Saginaw Michigan
Here is a blowup of a typical T&T steering column/strg wheel, horn and telescope parts.
I am thinking that possibly the lack of shim(s) #6 could cause the cap assembly (#9, #10, #11) not to be able to move because it is touching lever (459083) before the upper horn contact (#7) is closed and grounding the horn circuit.
You should be able to press on the horn cap, close the contact, and blow the horn without the horn cap touching or scraping on the telescope lever.
Otherwise, the upper horn contact #7 may be corroded and may need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Jim
I am thinking that possibly the lack of shim(s) #6 could cause the cap assembly (#9, #10, #11) not to be able to move because it is touching lever (459083) before the upper horn contact (#7) is closed and grounding the horn circuit.
You should be able to press on the horn cap, close the contact, and blow the horn without the horn cap touching or scraping on the telescope lever.
Otherwise, the upper horn contact #7 may be corroded and may need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Jan 14, 2012 at 10:09 AM.
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Thanks again Jim, FedEx just dropped off my new steering wheel and in a while I'll be heading to the garage to see what's going on. I've installed everything as shown but for some reason it's just not working.
I'm still having the issue with the hazard lights wherein they engage but don't' disengage, any idea what that may be? This whole steering wheel column thing is a nightmare!
EDIT: So I've found that the wheel CAN blow if, for example, you complete the circuit by touching the brass parts exposed by the locking plate with a wrench. However, once I put the retainer on the wheel refuses to blow again from the HUB ASM. That appears to be where the problem lies.
I'm still having the issue with the hazard lights wherein they engage but don't' disengage, any idea what that may be? This whole steering wheel column thing is a nightmare!
EDIT: So I've found that the wheel CAN blow if, for example, you complete the circuit by touching the brass parts exposed by the locking plate with a wrench. However, once I put the retainer on the wheel refuses to blow again from the HUB ASM. That appears to be where the problem lies.
Last edited by Jon76; Jan 14, 2012 at 07:34 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Saginaw Michigan
The upper horn contact (7) should have a leg on its underside. The leg should press on the tip of the eyelet (3) that should extend up through the steering wheel hub assembly.
If you just take off the steering wheel, you should be able to ground the eyelet tip to the steering shaft. Your horn should blow. If grounding the tip does not blow the horn then your problem is down inside the column, down in the wiring, the solenoid, or the horn themselves.
If the horn does blow, then the problem is in the upper horn contact itself.
Jim
If you just take off the steering wheel, you should be able to ground the eyelet tip to the steering shaft. Your horn should blow. If grounding the tip does not blow the horn then your problem is down inside the column, down in the wiring, the solenoid, or the horn themselves.
If the horn does blow, then the problem is in the upper horn contact itself.
Jim
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The horn contact blows until I add the plastic retainer and the big spring with the eyelet that is pushed by the leg on the horn contact. Once that's added and I press the eyelet, the horn no longer blows.
This is the retainer I bought, is it compatible or should I go for a more standard one? (The yellow one that Eckler's sells.) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
This is the retainer I bought, is it compatible or should I go for a more standard one? (The yellow one that Eckler's sells.) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Saginaw Michigan
The eyelet should always have continuity to the big spring. The spring behind the eyelet just pushes it up so that it always remains in contact with the leg on the upper horn contact.
I would think that the plastic retainer that you show should work. I assume that it is dimensionally the same as the OEM part. The plastic legs on the retainer should straddle the brass contacts that stick through the locking plate. The big spring that is part of the hub should sit down on the brass contacts and the plastic retainer should prevent any other metal steering column parts from touching the spring.
When the parts are assembled, you should be able to place one lead from a continuity meter on the tip of the eyelet. You should find continuity down through the steering column to the black horn wire that is located in the "G" location in the middle of the "harmonica" plastic connector under the dash.
Jim
I would think that the plastic retainer that you show should work. I assume that it is dimensionally the same as the OEM part. The plastic legs on the retainer should straddle the brass contacts that stick through the locking plate. The big spring that is part of the hub should sit down on the brass contacts and the plastic retainer should prevent any other metal steering column parts from touching the spring.
When the parts are assembled, you should be able to place one lead from a continuity meter on the tip of the eyelet. You should find continuity down through the steering column to the black horn wire that is located in the "G" location in the middle of the "harmonica" plastic connector under the dash.
Jim
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The issue I have with the retainer I bought is that it's a very solid plastic as opposed to the one the car previously had which seemed to be a bit more gummy.
I'm going to try and file down the legs on the retainer I have now and see if that works. Wish me luck.
I'm going to try and file down the legs on the retainer I have now and see if that works. Wish me luck.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Saginaw Michigan
I haven't had the upper horn contact apart in quite a while. It seems to me that if you use metal screws (rather than plastic rivets) your horn should blow continuasly.
With respect to the plastic horn tower that extends up through the steering wheel hub. The parts inside the horn tower should be the spring, then the eyelet with the upset end against the spring. Then the plastic bushing that holds the eyelet and spring in place. You should have continuity between the end of the eyelet and the metal steering shaft. You should be able to depress the eyelet into the horn tower and still maintain continuity.
Jim
With respect to the plastic horn tower that extends up through the steering wheel hub. The parts inside the horn tower should be the spring, then the eyelet with the upset end against the spring. Then the plastic bushing that holds the eyelet and spring in place. You should have continuity between the end of the eyelet and the metal steering shaft. You should be able to depress the eyelet into the horn tower and still maintain continuity.
Jim
