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Hey, I'm changing the oil this weekend and I want to switch to Synthetic. I'm not sure on which grade or weight to get, perhaps a 50 weight? Right now threre is a little oil leaking from her, I just hope the synthetic will turn it into a sieve. Any thoughts on this? In the "Driving" months it gets to around 30 deg. C up here, thats about 90 F.
First, is your car a daily driver or a weekend car. Regular oil adheres to parts better and does not run off as quickly, so on a weekend car, you are much better using regular oil. On a daily driver, the smaller molecules of synthetics are better. Also, if you're leaking oil, the chances are the synthetic is going to leak worse. With highs of 90*, I would think a 10W30 would be fine. But if your engines older and a little "sloppy" you may need to run a heavier oil to avoid burning it.
When ever I see this questions it is followed by answers for one or the other. Why not BOTH? There are blends of syn and dino oils. Seems to me this would be the best of both worlds. It would stick to parts because of the dino and flow easier because of the syn. Have not read or heard of research/opinions on the blends and would like to see some input on these blended oils.
What advantage do you hope to get from synthetic? How often do you change your oil? How much does your car get driven?
It sounds to me like you're trying trying to get a few years out of your engine before getting a rebuild or crate engine. So keep using dino oil and save the difference in cost. Put the savings in your "new engine fund!" Then you can run synthetic in your new engine!
Now I am not saying anything bad about synthetic .... BUT the only lubrication related problem I ever had was a stuck up (made a miss that was tough to find) valve lifter in a car that had only used Mobil one oil. I looked at the lifter and the inner bore was galled a little. The engine was spotless inside... but that experience made me wonder about synthetics.
the only lubrication related problem I ever had was a stuck up valve lifter in a car that had only used Mobil one oil. I looked at the lifter and the inner bore was galled a little. The engine was spotless inside... but that experience made me wonder about synthetics.
Sounds like a simple case of a bad lifter since the rest of the engine was spotless.
Yes I tend to agree.... The car had ran perfect for 92,000 miles . It was #8 exhaust valve lifter which is at the start of the lubrication, right after the rear main. :confused:
When ever I see this questions it is followed by answers for one or the other. Why not BOTH? There are blends of syn and dino oils. Seems to me this would be the best of both worlds. It would stick to parts because of the dino and flow easier because of the syn. Have not read or heard of research/opinions on the blends and would like to see some input on these blended oils.
Fevre
Blends are priced high yet they actually only have 10-15% synthetic depending on company.
If you desire a blend your better off blending your own using same weight and company at what ever % you want.:cheers:
Just thought using both seemed like a good idea for a cruiser that sometimes sits waiting for good weather. The dino would cling to the parts during down time and the syn would flow fast when it was time to rock.
My owners manual (you can get one for your year for around $20 from Pacific Corvette) warns against using 10w-30 for highway driving...it recommends 10w-40 at the minimum. It says 10w-30 is OK for short trips like to the grocery store and such. I run off-the-shelf Pennzoil 20w-50 Stop & Go Protection for daily driving with oil changes every four months and when it's time to race I buy some Pennzoil 20W-50 Racing Oil which needs to be changed about every month or two depending on use.
From the specs availabe from Pennzoil I determined that synthetics lubricate better and hold their viscosity better, but they burn sooner and leak out of bearings faster. I put my faith in "regular" oil and have not had any problems with it.
My owners manual (you can get one for your year for around $20 from Pacific Corvette) warns against using 10w-30 for highway driving...it recommends 10w-40 at the minimum. It says 10w-30 is OK for short trips like to the grocery store and such.
Just don't forget that the owners manual is talking about what was state of the art oil 27 years ago. A lot has changed since then. :D 27 years ago that was good advice...but....
Just thought using both seemed like a good idea for a cruiser that sometimes sits waiting for good weather. The dino would cling to the parts during down time and the syn would flow fast when it was time to rock.
Do your blend 50/50.
As to your question..I'm Italian and yes I do. :yesnod: :lol: :blueangel: :D :seeya ;)
With ANY leaks using syn will just leak faster and is much too expensive to waste. I've used 10w30 Pennzoil for over 20 years and have a 4 banger with 160,000 and a 6 cyl. with 240,000 and still no burning of oil. My Vette has 67,000 and I went to Mobil Syn but had some bad valve seals and it seemed to smoke more at start up. Went back to Pennzoil and now the smoking has completely stopped. I would only use syn if I had no leaks and burned no oil. But maybe you should give it a try and see how you like it. You can always go back to the old stuff having learned from experience. :cheers:
i have a friend who works for exxon research. and he told me that the best oil to use is the synthetic/mineral mix. because you get the best of both worlds. all synthetic and you'll find leaks you never new on a old engine! the synthetic portion helps at startup and the oil portion helps keep the looseness of a old engine in check! hope this helps...............