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'71 clock replacement

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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Default '71 clock replacement

Decided to replace the original clock (inoperative for several years) with a quartz movement. Can I access and remove the old one from the driver's side of the console without removing the whole front of the center dash? I'm really dreading this one!! Any advice and instructions very much appreciated.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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I cannot imagine how. There is very little room between the gauges and the heater duct. If I remember correctly you have to take the whole gauge cluster out to take any of the gauges out.

The exception to removing the gauge cluster may however be the clock.

Last edited by Roco71; Feb 10, 2012 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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I did mine last year, don't get in a rush and its not that bad.

First I removed the dash pad
Next removed passenger side lower dash
Next removed shift plate from console so I could get to the nuts below the radio. This takes the most time/patience working with the AC control and the fiber optics.
Last I removed the center gage console.

My clock had a broken wind up spring. I replaced it with one I had from another beatup clock. I cleaned the contacts with fine sand paper, blew the mechanism off with compressed air, added a few drops of WD40 and it works like a charm. I would recommend just fixing it since its pretty easy. Either way good luck.

Roger
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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In my 78 the bezel had to some out, I wouldn't imagine it's any different for the prior year cars.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Just did mine in my '69. Went the quartz route. Tried to clean up and lube the old one, and it would run for a while while connected to a battery sitting on my work bench. I was changing the heater core, so my project took a few weeks. The clock would always quit after a while. Since I was going to this much trouble, didn't want to trust old one.

Not an easy chore, so I would check everything else while I'm in there. Light bulbs, everything else working, are lenses scratched, faded faces, oil line leaking, any evidence of heater core leaking, etc. Might as well make the trip worthwhile.

Ralph.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:02 PM
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To get at mine, I had to remove the sill plate, passengers kick panel, and passengers lower dash pad. Then I removed the screws holding the gauge cluster and tilted it forward and out.
To get my clock working, I took it apart, cleaned it with contact cleaner, lubed it with a light oil, and cleaned the points carefuly. I had to give it a helping hand every so often, as it initially kept stopping, but once the oil got worked through, it's been great.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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Just curious on the color of the face on the quartz clock replacement does the face come in green to match the existing guages on 68-71 cars?
I've had my guage cluster and console off before and when I do it again I'm definitely replacing all bulbs, quartz movement clock, check oil pressure line fittings etc....
Marshal
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by marshal135
Just curious on the color of the face on the quartz clock replacement does the face come in green to match the existing guages on 68-71 cars?
I've had my guage cluster and console off before and when I do it again I'm definitely replacing all bulbs, quartz movement clock, check oil pressure line fittings etc....
Marshal
Quartz uses your old faceplate. Ultra high level, details and swear words omitted summary:
  • Take faceplate off of electric movement
  • Remove some pieces from movement
  • put those pieces (and some pieces from kit) on quartz movement
  • put faceplate on quartz movement
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:08 PM
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There are two options with the quartz clock replacements. One is just the guts you put in your existing housing. The other is the complete clock with quartz internals. I got the complete clock because I am a klutz and didn't want to handle the small stuff. More expensive, but easier for me.

Complete clock matches up perfectly, can't tell from original. When running the quartz has smooth sweep while original is jerky movement.

Ralph.

Last edited by rponfick; Feb 10, 2012 at 11:10 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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Ralph - switching the movement was about a 2/10 on difficulty. Rebuilding a holley is more difficult.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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Ralph,
are complete units offered in both green 68-71 and white 72-on faces?
I'd need a green tinted face for 68 so if not, I might have to swap over to quartz movement using my orig face
Marshal
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:25 AM
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Wish you guys were closer. You could bring me the clock and kit and I'd walk you through it... nailed it on my first try, although I did have to take it apart to WD40 the slip clutch on the minute wheel.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 09:39 AM
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thank you all who chimed in. I WILL be verrry careful.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Ferrolanoman
thank you all who chimed in. I WILL be verrry careful.
Speaking of matching color, chances are the clock hands of the new will not match the color of your other gauge pointers. Ask me how I know. Discuss swapping the hands of your old clock with the new with the vendor/manufacturer.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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I guess the thing that slowed me down the most on using the internal replacement method was getting the crimped edges of the backing free. The metal is fairly thick and I couldn't find a tool to do a good job on releasing the crimps. Two of the crimps were behind the flimsy clock face and I was afraid I would bugger the face up. So, the old clock is safely in the stack of original parts that some new owner might want.

Marshall, I ordered from Zip and they have all years from 68-82 (68-71 are green face). The clock came in a box from another supplier, so I suspect all the vendors use a common remanufacturer.

I do Holleys all the time, but clocks?

Ralph.

Last edited by rponfick; Feb 11, 2012 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 12:55 PM
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For the crimps I switched between a tiny screwdriver and a needle nose plier. I think I may have used my fingers on some of them too.

There's one kit that will cover the entire generation (and even back to 63, I believe, at least some point in the midyears.)

I think 71 is the changeover year. Red gears for early 71 and before, black gears for anything past that.
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