CCC and the 1981.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,465
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park Fl
You were the victim of incompetent mechanics. Unfortunately, that problem is the norm when it comes to older vehicles, especially the L81. That is why I said you need to buy the factory service manual and find/ fix the problem yourself.
God bless, Sensei
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Cedar Springs MI
2 Edelbrock 600's and 1 Holly down, now what???
And for the electrical issue I dont know where to begin. I hate electrical work.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 27
Well, my opinion is this, don't buy an '81-'82 (or any C3 for that matter) unless your willing to turn some wrenches, and learn how the system operates. Your probably better off buying a new one and just worry about the payment. Because they CAN be money pits if you don't do the work yourself.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 151
Likes: 1
From: Cedar Springs MI
Well, my opinion is this, don't buy an '81-'82 (or any C3 for that matter) unless your willing to turn some wrenches, and learn how the system operates. Your probably better off buying a new one and just worry about the payment. Because they CAN be money pits if you don't do the work yourself.
My wife is the one who wanted another C3. I had a 79 10 yrs ago and sold it for the same reason. I had 16K into it and it was worth 8K and needed more, more more.
I wanted a C5 but she won. Now she's complaining what a money pit it is, blah blah blah.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,465
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park Fl
The price differece between DIY and paying a mechanic is sobering. My wife's late model Suburban recently needed service and had a couple of codes. I did not have the time to fix it myself and told her to take it to a trusted mechanic friend. I told her it would be expensive, but it needed to be done. When she got the bill for $1,300, she had a cow. She thought when I said "expensive", it would be around $400. The truth is, that was about right for the parts, which is what she is used to paying for.
God bless, Sensei
God bless, Sensei
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Another 81 CCC bites the dust!! I will have the last one soon -- the last Dodo
So why do I keep it (and love it by the way). Because that is the way it was meant to be. I am an electrical engineer and have done some pretty sophisticated stuff in my career (I AM a rocket scientist!) and I can assure you the system is elegant in its simplicity. It was the first ever, and it worked quite well and was extremely reliable. The electronic carb should be shown in engineering schools as the model for simple, elegant solutions to a complex problem.
I keep it because it deserves to be kept. I am proud of the fact that I understand it, can diagnose it, and make it work. I am proud that I can open the hood and show people the ugliest engine compartment of any sports car ever made and describe that NO other corvette was ever like this (for a reason!)
Lets face it, the 81 is no race car and would not have been with or without a computer, 81 was not a good year for american cars -- Slowest fast car ever made. But it is special, unique and so ugly its beautiful and its mine and I love it!
So why do I keep it (and love it by the way). Because that is the way it was meant to be. I am an electrical engineer and have done some pretty sophisticated stuff in my career (I AM a rocket scientist!) and I can assure you the system is elegant in its simplicity. It was the first ever, and it worked quite well and was extremely reliable. The electronic carb should be shown in engineering schools as the model for simple, elegant solutions to a complex problem.
I keep it because it deserves to be kept. I am proud of the fact that I understand it, can diagnose it, and make it work. I am proud that I can open the hood and show people the ugliest engine compartment of any sports car ever made and describe that NO other corvette was ever like this (for a reason!)
Lets face it, the 81 is no race car and would not have been with or without a computer, 81 was not a good year for american cars -- Slowest fast car ever made. But it is special, unique and so ugly its beautiful and its mine and I love it!
the diag. connector under the concole is five pins not six not eight its five lol.. and its pin D that I grounded to get the check engine light to flash, I know there is a short in the wiring somewhere due to the check engine light being lit key on engine off or key on engine on, It took me about 30 min. using a 82 wiring diagram from alldata why a 82 you ask thats as far back as crappy alldata will show. 
anyhow I checked pin D at the diag. connector to pin 5 at the CCC, DME, ECU what ever this thing is you l81 guys call it 
that is how I ran down which wire I should ground to get the check engine light to flash. I figure that there is a short to gound somewhere after the diag. connector either that or its wired backwards I need a wiring diagram/repair manual for a 81 and this thing will be back to saturday night cruzing 
sorry for the rant.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 10
From: New Paltz, New York USA
Ybnormal,
If you've got a TH350C there should be an electrical connector on the d.side for the lockup function. There are 4 pins on it. The standard harness going to this connector only has 3 wires in it (labelled A, B & C at the top connector on the firewall & A, C & D on the g/box: B goes to D - great init?!). Having just looked inside my trans (MX2), pin C doesn't connect to anything. Pins A & D go to the solenoid (via a pressure switch wired in series). The computer just switches current through pins A & D in the g/box when lockup is required.
The current is switched through the solenoid via a relay on the firewall. 12V is present at the relay (if the brake is off) & the ECU earths this 12V when it wants lockup. This throws the relay to send 12V (from the fusebox) to the solenoid via the pressure switch.
So you just need a switch to connect 12V (fused!) to pin A & run a wire from pin D to earth.
If you need a pic of it all send me an IM & I can email it to you.
If you've got a TH350C there should be an electrical connector on the d.side for the lockup function. There are 4 pins on it. The standard harness going to this connector only has 3 wires in it (labelled A, B & C at the top connector on the firewall & A, C & D on the g/box: B goes to D - great init?!). Having just looked inside my trans (MX2), pin C doesn't connect to anything. Pins A & D go to the solenoid (via a pressure switch wired in series). The computer just switches current through pins A & D in the g/box when lockup is required.
The current is switched through the solenoid via a relay on the firewall. 12V is present at the relay (if the brake is off) & the ECU earths this 12V when it wants lockup. This throws the relay to send 12V (from the fusebox) to the solenoid via the pressure switch.
So you just need a switch to connect 12V (fused!) to pin A & run a wire from pin D to earth.
If you need a pic of it all send me an IM & I can email it to you.
Could you send me a picture of the switch hook up for the torque converter? I just put a new crate moptor in my 81 and I eliminated the computer. My e-mail address is: rcooper1@hvc.rr.com Thank you very much
