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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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Default Carb spacer plate

I have been running this spacer plate for some 30 years on my old carb trying to reduce the heat because of peculation in the float bowls after shut down.

Well it it doesn't work very well.

New manifold and new carb and want to something new.
Plan B is to install a 5/8 or 1" spacer, i have lots of room under the hood.

Whats the best insulator, wood, plastic,aluminum?
Anybody try this and did it work to control the heat, and what effect did it have on performance.
350, th400, 308 gear, top end mods.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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A phenolic spacer like this is the best for heat insulation. I run one on my avatar car. They come in different heights and you can use an open design like this or a 4 hole design. Mine actually improved throttle response but you'll want to research what would be best for your motor combo.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1405/?rtype=10
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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i had to run a phenolic spacer on the dual quad set up on the 80 to solve the same problem your having now.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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1/2" phenolic carb spacer Holly 750.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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I tried a similar heat shield,still had fuel boil after shutdown hard to restart.Did an air gap manifold swap that blocked the heat crossover from the heads and separates the runners from the valley.No more fuel boiling.I'm in Hawaii so no cold weather here.You might try the phenolic spacer and the heat shield together.Watch hood clearance,I have a drop base air cleaner.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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Next question.
Manifold is Edelbrock 2701, carb is 4160, vac secondary's, p/n 1850.

Searched lots of chevy related forums, most suggest a 1/2 spacer, ans say it does control the heat.

Options now are go to an open or four hole spacer
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 07:13 AM
  #7  
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Default Fuel pump?

Mod75,

What fuel pump are you running? The factory pump had a provision for connection to the fuel tank return line. The engineers at GM knew that by keeping the fuel moving, there was little if any percolation. I wouldn't be surprised if you've got an aftermarket FP with no provision for a return line connection. If so, fit a factory pump and reconnect the return line to it. Plus, you can get rid of the shield and you won't need a spacer.

If you have to fit a spacer, then aluminum is definitely not the one to use.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 02:31 PM
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GM's solution was to use a 1/4" thick composite, gasket.
I had same problem, by adding the 1/4" gasket
my carb. temp. dropped almost 100 degrees, problem solved.
metal to metal transfers the heat, you need an Insulator,to stop the heat transfer to the carb.
do this simple test, after running up to normal operating temp.
put your hand on the carb, bet you cannot keep it on there very long,
after adding the 1/4" gasket, the carb remains "Cold".
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 12:56 AM
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Default Don't forget the washers under the nut on the carb bolts.

You can add some more heat isolation using fiber/composite or synthetic washers under the card bolt heads (or nuts if using studs to mount carb). Most specialty hardware stores will have these. Reduces the heat transfer area to just the where the bolt (or stud) touches the carb base.

The cooler the fuel the better,
cardo0
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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Default

Originally Posted by 69Vett
GM's solution was to use a 1/4" thick composite, gasket.
I had same problem, by adding the 1/4" gasket
my carb. temp. dropped almost 100 degrees, problem solved.
metal to metal transfers the heat, you need an Insulator,to stop the heat transfer to the carb.
do this simple test, after running up to normal operating temp.
put your hand on the carb, bet you cannot keep it on there very long,
after adding the 1/4" gasket, the carb remains "Cold".
Thanks for reminding me about that 1/4" gasket, had one on a 348 years ago. Picked one up at Advance auto $13.00, think i have some longer studs for the manifold in the garage.

Thanks to all for the input.
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