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Well it looks like it's time to address issues with my power windows.
Passenger's side goes up slow and stalls at the top.
Driver's side goes 1/2 way up and then you can hear the teeth skipping.
I ordered new, well I don't know what it's called but it has the teeth and not the gear.
Anyway I need to work the doors over. New rollers, clean the tracks and all that that goes with it.
Start by reading as much as you can. This will help you to understand how the system works and prevent you from breaking anything accidentally. Make sure you have all of the tools that are needed.
Once you have everything and some confidence start by taking the door panels off...carefully. Only work on one door at a time...that way if you have a problem you have the other to look at as a reference.
Some issues can be fixed by simply cleaning electrical connections. ONce you can access everything look at all of the electrical connections to see how they are. If there is corrosion clean the contacts.
The rest I will leave for those with specific experience. I have had my door panels off on my 1976 and looked at everything but haven't done the actual work.
I just went thru this. It's time consuming but not too bad. It's amazing the difference that cleaning and regreasing everything can make. This is also an excellent time to de-squeak and un-rattleify everything. I found the buhings on my lock rods were shot and the metal clips were bent so everything rattled inside. Also the wires to the regulator would slap inside the door when it was slammed. A couple of hours of work and it sounds like a new car when I slam the doors.
Regarding the passenger side: check the glass alignment of the window. The adjustment is on top of the door (front and rear) after you remove the door panel. If adjusted wrong it might be binding near the top of the run.
I think you are talking about one of the $29 teeth repair kits. I installed one myself and it works great. However, it was a challenge to install. The hardest part for me was actually drilling the holes for it. I was able to drill one of the three holes for it myself with a hand held drill. I couldn't get the others even with a new carbide bit.
I took it to a guy who owned a motorcycle/small engine shop to see if he could help. Nothing. He referred me to a machine shop next door and they had a drill press and clamps and still broke a bit trying to do it. But they were able to do it.
They put the regulator on a Rockwell hardness tester and I sure wish I could remember the reading to tell you. All I am saying is if you have a hard time drilling the holes you are not alone.
Those 'sissor' arms are under tension from a spring assist to lift the side glass which in turn helps the 'power window' motor to left and decend the window by the tightly wound spring.
We would seperate the motor from the mounting frame but understood the 'energy' within that spring.
If seperating the motor, please secure those sissor arms as they will physically spring into action once the motor drive gear has been seperated from the half circle 'teeth' gear on the arms. I did not loose a finger tip but did get a 'pinch' blister.
The mechanism is basic. Cleanliness is key, replacement of worn pivot points makes the unit tighter. Study the operation and you will see results.
Willcox has been jerking me around for 3 months on 4 screws so I refuse to do business with then until that's taken care of and Ecklers doesn't know what I need.
I would think Ecklers would look at the Willcox web site to get a a kit together.
Sorry to hear bout you & Wilcox. I've always had good success with them. They're pretty good. I never deal with Ecklers.
To get all of my stuff for the window job, I went to a couple of places.
Corvette America in Pa. & RIK's in North Carolina. They're pretty good at getting what you want. Corvette Central too.
I see your from California
Sorry, but most of the places I deal with are here on the east side of the country. Don't know too many out your way.
I just redid my 1980 windows and encountered similar problems. The windows put a real pull on the electrical system. In working on them, I had let my battery go low and it required recharging to give me full lift. Also, I found that by angling the bottom of the front channel out and the top in as far as possible, the least resistance was created for the lifts. Additionally, I junked the two top clips on the front rubber which were creating both resistance against the lift and making window alignment even more critical than it could be. Hope this helps.
I just redid my 1980 windows and encountered similar problems. The windows put a real pull on the electrical system. In working on them, I had let my battery go low and it required recharging to give me full lift. Also, I found that by angling the bottom of the front channel out and the top in as far as possible, the least resistance was created for the lifts. Additionally, I junked the two top clips on the front rubber which were creating both resistance against the lift and making window alignment even more critical than it could be. Hope this helps.
I wanted to replace what ever I could when I disabled the window so I would never have to do it again.
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