Anyone have any experience with the sandwich adapter/thermostat combos? Specifically this one?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-502ERL/

What are your opinions on running -10AN for oil lines? Too small?
This is going on a 90% street driven car... the other 10% of the time I am pushing it hard on the track and I have to keep an eye on my oil temps

This is the oiling system I am looking to put together:
Canton RR pan- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-15-260/

Stacked plate heat exchanger- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-41912ERL/

And the thermostat in the beginning of the post

Along with a Melling HP HV pump.
Is -10AN going to put a big restriction in my system?

 

Have to ask, why do you need/want to run a HP HV pump?

However many guys may swear by it, excessive oil pressure is not your friend. As long as your clearances are right, ~10 psi per 1000 rpm is all you need to overcome centrifugal force at the mains and to assure adequate lubrication. Anything very much more than that isn't insurance; rather it robs power, puts additional heat in the oil, opens the filter bypass more often, and increases wear and tear on everything associated with driving the pump. Besides, when you're hammering along around a long sweeper you don't want to run additional risk of evacuating the sump and exposing the pickup.

And, since you'll be tracking (I assume on road circuits) I'd suggest you not overlook what resources such as Pegasus, HRP and Racer Parts Wholesale offer in the line of oil system components and accessories before you commit to buy. That said, Canton certainly offers some great gear.

In any event, you ought to be just fine with -10 lines, but IMCO you really ought to design your system and select components based on the 10% of the time on track rather than for the 90% of the time on the street, as the former isn't the place for compromises. Finally, I don't know the exact formula for calculating oil cooler BTU requirements, but better to err on being oversized and letting the thermostat regulate. Oh, and Captain Obvious wants me to make sure you read oil temp after the cooler. Hope that's worth $.02

TSW

 

Thanks for the input...
I already have the HVHP pump... I know the high pressure isnt totally necessary but is the higher volume not better for a "high volume" oiling system?

I plan on building this system so I can run my car at 100% the 10% of the time its on the track (yes, the road course)
Is the pan still a good place to get a temp reading?

Thanks for the tips on the other websites

 

Increased capacity doesn't require higher volume, but since you've already to the pump I'd suggest replacing the relief spring with a standard one (which ought to be available from Melling), and to then adjust viscosity (within reason) until you're nearer the 10/1000 zone. The only time you really need a stiffer spring (or to shim it) is when the standard one won't build enough pressure to keep you above the 10/1000 line (hot). Note that you won't likely see 10 @ 1000, 20 @ 2000, 30 @ 3000 and so on. The aim is to get as close to that relationship as you can without falling short at max rpm.

The most important place to watch oil temps is just before it enters the main galleys, which will be downstream of the cooler when the 'stat operates. That said, monitoring sump temp will give you data on oil temp gain.

So you know ahead of time, if you get your chassis fairly well sorted on decent rubber you could find yourself shopping accumulators and pressure switches and solenoid valves and warning lights and shut-offs... BTDT myself, and only hope when everything is back together that I've finally solved my sharks starvation issues.

 

Been doing alot of research lately... I think Im going to go with a Mocal themostat and oil cooler, Canton RR pan, and a high pressure, standard volume pump. I did some hot (210+) oil pressure tests today, and I think if I go with a slightly thinner oil I will be very close to the 10/1000

I made a warning light a while back. It turns on at <20 psi. (yellow exclamation point)


Where is a good place to mount the cooler? I would prefer to keep my front license plate as I use it to block airflow directed under the nose... Im thinking right over one of the lower cooling openings be a good location for lots of air flow, but I dont know if the rest of my cooling system would like that.
I was looking at maybe putting it behind the side gills, but I dont know if there would be enough air flow... a small Gurney flap might create enough air flow to make it work. Ill have to test that... It would keep my oil lines nice and short too which is a plus

 

A lessor but easyer way of doing this is to use the Oil Cooler sold by GMPP. Its the C4 Oil Cooler that was used from about 89 or so. Its a sandwich between the Oil Filter and the Block but its got the Heat exchanger right in it. Then the Water Lines just tie into the Water Pump on the Engine, and uses the Radiator to Cool the Oil. No seperate Pump or Heat Exchanger to deal with and short Water Line runs. They even have Molded Hoses for it. No its not going to provide as much Cooling, but It might be enough. And if its not enough, You could add a sepeate Pump and Heat Exchanger to it later on for a cooler water supply to it. Just a thought. PS, I have used this set up since 89 or so, ran the Nevada 100 in the Desert and havn't had any oil temp issues.