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race ramps for C3

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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Default race ramps for C3

anyone buy these?
there are a lot of different options but how much slope do you need for a C3?
I dont want to spend 200+ dollars and find out they dont work.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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You should not have any problems with the standard 56" and 67" Race Ramps which have a 10.7˚ slope. But just to confirm this you can do the simple yardstick test described in the attachment.

You will get a free pair of wheel chocks with the ramps if you make a purchase by 31-Mar-2012.

http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo.../Specials.html

Originally Posted by 81$$pit
anyone buy these?
there are a lot of different options but how much slope do you need for a C3?
I dont want to spend 200+ dollars and find out they dont work.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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I use the 56" 2-piece Race Ramps, no problem with my car which is lowered. I love them, I wish I had them years ago!

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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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I bought them to use with my C5 and now use them for just about everything. A great product! They're extremely lightweight and store as easily as the old set I had but a whole lot easier to move around.

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 11:57 PM
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I have the 67" ramps because I have a C6Z06 and they just *barely* work for that, but the C3 goes up easy peasy. I think the short ones would work fine too, but you never know when you may decide to drop it or add a C4/5/6 to the stable!

Absolutely LOVE them by the way. They do NOT move, and the 78 goes up super easy.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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The 67" and 56" ramps have the same 10.7˚ slope. So they fit exactly the same under any given front bumper. The difference is really at the platform end where the 67" ramps are 2" higher. The 67" ramps are also 2" wider which gives you a little more margin of safety over the longer ramp length.

Originally Posted by Shark Racer
... I think the short ones would work fine too, but you never know when you may decide to drop it or add a C4/5/6 to the stable!

Absolutely LOVE them by the way. They do NOT move, and the 78 goes up super easy.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 03:11 PM
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One very important tip.

I have the extended ramps that I use on our 59 and 71. One day I decided to finally deal with an issue with my brake lite switch and how it interfaced to the Doug Nash 5 speed transmission that had been installed by me many years ago. At the time Hurst did not offer a proper bracket to mount the switch and I had schemed up my own and it was just a bit to flexible to be reliable. They now offer such a bracket.

As it is an extremely tight fit between the rear cross member and X frame and I would be lying on a creeper, I realized the best access would be raise the rear wheels instead of the front.

No problem, I would just back up the rears onto the race ramps....

Bad idea! I proceeded to back onto the ramps, felt a very slight bump, continued on and next thing I knew, the rear wheels had climbed, crawled walked, up the STOP and over it and of course the rear of the car fell, dropped, bottomed onto the race ramp,,,now on the wrong side of them,,,with the rear wheels hanging a few inches off the garage floor.

What a mess. Was able to take my hein Warner floor jack under the rear pumpkin and finally undo everything. The car suffered no damage,,,dumb luck,,,but my race ramp will never look the same.

The point of all of this is. The STOP on the ramps will usually serve their purpose when used for front wheels,,,,,rear wheel drive only,,,,but are almost worthless to prevent any drive wheels,,,front or rear drive from walking,climbing right over these STOPS with almost no warning.

You should either have a spotter helper or be able to well view your wheels when using them on drive wheels.

I did call Race Ramps to chew their *** for not posting such a warning as you are seeing here. They said good idea,,,just wished they had sent me replacements for my cosmetically damaged ramps as a reward.

Last edited by Sxrxrnr; Mar 31, 2012 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 03:24 PM
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It's also a good practice to use two wheel chocks ahead of the wheels that will remain on the ground. The wheel chocks should be positioned so that they are the length of the wheelbase behind the built-in stops at the end of the ramp platform. Once the car is safely on the ramp platform, you can reposition the wheel chocks on the opposite side of the tires that remain on the ground.

BTW, the free pair of wheel chocks rebate offer ends today, 31-Mar-2012.

Originally Posted by Sxrxrnr
One very important tip.

You should either have a spotter helper or be able to well view your wheels when using them on drive wheels.
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic
It's also a good practice to use two wheel chocks ahead of the wheels that will remain on the ground. The wheel chocks should be positioned so that they are the length of the wheelbase behind the built-in stops at the end of the ramp platform. Once the car is safely on the ramp platform, you can reposition the wheel chocks on the opposite side of the tires that remain on the ground.

BTW, the free pair of wheel chocks rebate offer ends today, 31-Mar-2012.
When not using my checks, I find them very handy for positioning my cars in our double deep garage tandem garage. Place the front of the garage cars exactly where you want them, place a chock right up against the front of a front tire. Do the same for the cars parked behind the front cars.

As tandem parking can be a bit tight, this allows me to pull forward when parking to exactly where I wish without screwing around.

Good idea however not to miss the chock, so you still have to be alert
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