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Testing starter, have question

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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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Default Testing starter, have question

So I have my old starter on my new crate motor (350)
and we wanted to test it to make sure it's working before we put it in the car (It's a pain to change, have to loosen the headers in order to replace it).

Anyways, so we tried it out, and it seems like it hits the flywheel and the flywheel doesn't wanna budge.

We've tested the crank, putting a wrench on the end and turning, it turns so that seems all good, so why wouldn't the flywheel spin with the starter engaging? The new starter that came with the motor won't work for it, doesn't clear the bell housing, and the old one fits perfect.

We tested the new starter not even connected to anything, just to double check we're doing things right, and sure enough, it comes out spinning.

Is this the way it should be or does it sound like somethings wrong?

That's a picture of the new starter (on the left) and the old one. I had the starter tested before this whole thing and it worked just fine.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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Are you getting enough current to the starter? It could be a weak battery or poor connection to the starter. How did you wire it? Are you using the solenoid? What kind of wire are you using to connect to the solenoid or starter? If you don't have a big enough wire to it you won't get enough current. How did you ground it? Again you need a good path back to the battery.
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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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I used jumpers from my Corolla to the positive, used a good solid ground and arched the positive to the ... not sure what it's called exactly but was instructed that's how you do it, and it worked
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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It looks like you have two different nose cones with different mounting patterns. The staggered holes are for 168 tooth flywheel, straight across for 153 tooth.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:22 AM
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I have a 168 tooth flywheel.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:54 AM
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I'll take a video in the morning and post it
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tonyv123
It looks like you have two different nose cones with different mounting patterns. The staggered holes are for 168 tooth flywheel, straight across for 153 tooth.
as TonyV said, the new starter that came with the engine looks to be for the wrong flywheel. You should sent it back for the correct one.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 01:03 AM
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It was meant for the flexplate it came with installed. I had replaced it with what they said was the appropriate flywheel for my tran
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
I used jumpers from my Corolla to the positive, used a good solid ground and arched the positive to the ... not sure what it's called exactly but was instructed that's how you do it, and it worked
When you say "it worked" do you mean that it turned the engine over or are you still having the problem?
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 03:22 PM
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This first link is the video of my original starter in the new setup (took it out today, had it tested at autozone, then a place called Quality Starters, both said it was good).
http://youtu.be/uJiyyXG2vHo

Here is the new starter outside the motor (because it doesn't fit my setup, was meant for the flexplate that came with it). This is just a reference to show I have some basic idea what I'm doing haha.
http://youtu.be/lKgHHLfdbQk
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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The good news, it was an easy fix, the tranny wasn't in neutral, once we figured that out we got it working no problem. Bad news, the serpentine setup isn't going to work in this car.
1. one of the pulleys can't be on because it hits the A-Arm
2. The tensioner pulley sits to high and I will need a raised hood.
3. The alternator also will prevent me from using my regular hood.

Fantastic. Posting a new thread about these issues if anyone wants to give input. Or the best way to hang myself
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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O.K....I guess you have your starter problem sorted out, you never answered my 76 ray as to if it was squared away or not, so I assume it's starting. The easiest way to go is to use the original accessory brackets that came on your car, or some that match what should be on your car. That way everything will fit, and operate as it should ,and you can still use your stock hood. Hope this helps!
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyv123
O.K....I guess you have your starter problem sorted out, you never answered my 76 ray as to if it was squared away or not, so I assume it's starting. The easiest way to go is to use the original accessory brackets that came on your car, or some that match what should be on your car. That way everything will fit, and operate as it should ,and you can still use your stock hood. Hope this helps!
It's been out of the car, I don't have carb and fuel all hooked up so it's not gunna turn over. I just wanted to make sure the starter was going to spin it before I dropped the motor in.
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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So it is spinning correctly?
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyv123
So it is spinning correctly?
Now it is. We took the tranny off, and I connected the starter with it off, and it spun, watched it spin.

Then put the tranny in neutral, and reinstalled it, reinstalled the starter for the last time, tested it, this time you could definitely hear it spinning.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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Well at least the fix was cheap. Your wallet loves it.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
Bad news, the serpentine setup isn't going to work in this car.
Man thats a bummer. I was thinking there would be problems with that set-up. Thats why I asked you in your original thread if they said anything about the fitment of the accessory package. I was hoping that it would work though because I was interested in that drive package as well. Sorry for your misfortune.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GT's 78
Man thats a bummer. I was thinking there would be problems with that set-up. Thats why I asked you in your original thread if they said anything about the fitment of the accessory package. I was hoping that it would work though because I was interested in that drive package as well. Sorry for your misfortune.

Slow down that may not be accurate. In that other thread he's dealing with both issues. The hood wasn't put on the car he was just eyeballing across the fenders. That system has been installed in plenty of C3s with stock hoods.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Riles
Slow down that may not be accurate. In that other thread he's dealing with both issues. The hood wasn't put on the car he was just eyeballing across the fenders. That system has been installed in plenty of C3s with stock hoods.
Alright, I wasn't going to slap the hood on yet because the car isn't complete, but I told you guys I'd see if it would clear and I'm a man of my word.

Looks like it's gunna clear. I'm just a pessimist lol.

Also, from what I've been told I can ignore the smog delete pulley that's giving me problems. I measured out the pulley setup without the delete pulley and subtracted 2 inches like I was told to do, and got what I needed from autozone, who also confirmed I can do this.

HOWEVER.

The fuel pump that comes with this setup I'm told won't work.

The old pump has an in line, a return line and a line to the carb, the new one does not. Tho you can easily get an brand new fuel pump that matches the old one no problem, and it fits all the same.

Last edited by Zapawaf; Mar 2, 2012 at 01:32 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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I have the same fuel pump as you do, with no return outlet. I've been using it for 5 years now with no problems. If you do use the pump, just make sure you cap off the hard line going back to the tank. Plus you can clock the bottom of the pump to get your fuel lines where you want them.
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