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OK, I did it! I removed both rear trailing arms in about 4 hours. Besides my self with glee, so proud like a school boy with first 100% test score. I want to rebuild them myself but need advice. Can't afford to send out and don't trust the locals in New York to be honest. Does anyone have any links, video's or advice on how to rebuild the trailing arms? What tools do you need, and how much are they. Really know I can do the job if I something to work from in terms of step by step.
IMHO you're better off letting the experts do this, i.e. Van Steel is one of the best and their price of about $350 is only about $100 more than it will cost you to do it yourself. And, they'll do it much better than you or me or many on this forum.
I did mine several years ago and borrowed the $75 tool you'll need to bench set the bearing tolerances. You'll also need a micrometer to allow you to shim the bearings to about +0.003-5" and with the "off-the-shelf" shim set available you'll be lucky to get the bearings set within that dimen. A good rebuilder like Van Steel can set the bearings to +0.001-2 consistently and correctly because they've done it hundreds of times and use the best materials, plus Timken bearings.
For the best results/$$ invested, this job, like changing your rear end gear ratio, is best left to the pros.
Give Gary Ramadei Corvette Service in New Haven, CT a call. 203-776-2813 ext 139 daytime. He'll give you every bit of info you need to attempt this repair. He gives seminars on the subject. Steering boxes and differentials, too.
...What tools do you need, and how much are they...
Just about all the aftermarket providers carry the various specialized tools you will need. Go to the websites and start putting together your tool and price list.
You have received good advice about farming these out ot the pros.
OK< I am going to bump this up. Rodney25, how in the world did you get the the front bolts on the trailing arms? I have the thing just about apart but I cant see where to get to the bolt head? Cotter pins out, caliper off, shocks off - everything. But I cant see where the bolt head is.
The setup tool is something like $75. Try to beg or borrow a dial indicator. You should also look for a machine shop with a surface grinder to adjust the shims for you. A bushing tool is maybe $50 but you can also make one.
I helped dad do his left side arm bearings. The PO had driven it until the bearing had turned on the spindle. I think the Timkin bearings and seals were about $40 and a used spindle was $75. we used the old spindle for the setup tool I borrowed a dial indicator and knew someone with a surface grinder. We didn't do the bushing but I know we could figure out how to do the bushing for whatever the bushing cost.
I apologize for not contributing real information....I just saw that the last poster was "Lionel Hutz" and it made me chuckle. My favorite tv attorney.
OK< I am going to bump this up. Rodney25, how in the world did you get the the front bolts on the trailing arms? I have the thing just about apart but I cant see where to get to the bolt head? Cotter pins out, caliper off, shocks off - everything. But I cant see where the bolt head is.
Any help? I feel like a moron
Front bolt? You mean the main pivot bolt?
The head is on the other side behind that angled brace that holds the brake flex line
THANKS Mooser!!! I got my head on a swivel and I got it. Fortunately it came right apart - just hard to see. The last thing is to take the half shafts off. My chassis service manual says the inside U-joint has to come off to release it. is this correct if I just want to take the trailing arm, spindle rotor etc off? OR can I leave the inside joints alone and just pull the thing apart at the outboard end?
THANKS Mooser!!! I got my head on a swivel and I got it. Fortunately it came right apart - just hard to see. The last thing is to take the half shafts off. My chassis service manual says the inside U-joint has to come off to release it. is this correct if I just want to take the trailing arm, spindle rotor etc off? OR can I leave the inside joints alone and just pull the thing apart at the outboard end?
Should start a different thread
Remove the 4 bolts holding the outside u-joint flange to the spindle and you should be able to remove the T/A leaving the 1/2 shafts on the diff.
BUT, check you u-joints while your this close
Mooser
I have done my trailing arms and I strongly recommend you send them to someone like Van Steel who does them all the time. When I took mine apart I needed a 50 ton press to get the bearings off the spindle. Then you need to turn the spindle down for a .002" interference fit to facilitate reassembly. You will need about $600 worth of special service tools as well. If you do a little research and educate yourself it is doable, but by the time you pay for the machine work and buy the tools and parts, its cheaper to have it done by the experts.