I normally don't do polls but I will for this one. I currently have 40 miles on the new engine and have a confession to make. Today I opened her up a little bit. I was rolling at about 2000RPMs in 1st gear, I nailed the gas and revved her to somewhere in between 5000-5500RPMs, shifted regularly into 2nd gear and revved it to about the same and eased of the gas. I'm feeling kind of guilty now. I remembered Gordon (sorry to put you on the spot :) ) saying that he didn't but very many miles on his engine before he started running it through the ringer. This thing pulls like a freight train, she revs out in no time flat (NOTE: I'm still about 1000RPMs shy of where I will be shifting). So what do you guys think? I'd really like to hear your opinions.

 

Bence, I know it's early to tell but would you reccomend this cam? I may order it tomorrow? What is your idle rpm, and does it pull fairly strong through out the power band.? How is the idle quality?
:cheers:

P.S. I usually take it easy for the first 500 miles, drain the oil, change the filter, and then all bets are off after that! :lol:


[Modified by Corey 68, 8:58 PM 5/15/2002]

 

i too agree with gordon all of my motors ive pretty much taken it easy around the block a few times and then opened it right up.I used to do the 500 mile rule ,but not anymore,ever since i started building circle track motors and go right up to the track and run laps after laps at 6800 to 7500 rpm all day to break them in,then after that i get right on them.But i dont recommend it to everyone.

 

Corey:
This cam isn't for everyone. All I know is it revs out really fast. I'm not sure how much power it has under 2000RPMS. I don't have solid u-joints yet so I've been getting the car rolling before I hop on it. From 2000-5500 RPMS it's lightning fast. I'm not sure how well it will rev to it's advertised 6500RPMs but it was still pulling like a crazy horse before I shifted. Comp Cams suggests at least 10:1 compression ratio with this cam. Are you going to run an automatic or a standard. I think the standard transmission makes the big cam much more tolerable and really helps out with the low end. I'll never go back to a hydraulic cam after feeling how quickly this thing revs up....it's like night and day.

If you have any questions you are more than welcome to IM or e-mail me.

P.S. My idle is currently at 1500RPMs, I'm going to try bringing the idle down and see what happens. My distributor hold down keeps working its way loose and retarding my distributor. I haven't hooked a vacuum guage up to see what kind of vacuum it's pulling but my guess is that it's probably not a lot. :D I don't have problems with my power breaks though.

 

There are only two things to break in on a motor. The cam/lifters (non-roller) and the rings. When I set up a new motor on the dyno I have a program that will cycle the motor from 2000 RPM to 3500 RPM for 20 minutes. That will break in the cam/lifter and seat the rings. After that it is dyno pulls to whatever the RPM the motor is designed to run at.

The habit of running a motor for 500 or 1000 miles is from back when the factory use to run a very hard faced ring and it took that long to seat in.The motor had a lot of blow by until the rings seated in.


[Modified by Pete79L82, 9:57 PM 5/15/2002]

 

The last couple engines I've done was just give them a couple hours of mild use to allow rings to seat. After that anything goes. So far no problems many miles later.
But being conservative on it for the first few hundred miles wouldn't hurt, just a painful experience for you to have to wait to open it up :lol:
Scott

 

YOU have broke it in buy just getting on it let in rip And start thinking about a new rear :smash:

 

A friend of mine who owns a engine shop says he breaks the cam in for 20 minutes then lets er rip on the dyno :D

 

So, how important is the breakin period for new heads? My Trick Flow instructions say to go 500 miles as break in. Is this just to cover their rears? I have a dyno day on 5/25 and don't think I could get 500 miles on it beforehand.
thanks
-terry

 

Revs out really fast or are you smoking the tires?

 

run it for 500 with mild rpm burst, not all out to max rpm, 4-5 would be acceptable from time to time. factory ran them and broke them in and ask for the 500 miles to ensure long life for the average customer. I break my own engines in easy for at least 100 miles then up the rpm each 100 miles until I reach 500. Thus far over the years I have never lost an engine. :cheers:

 

Bence, did you break the cam in properly first? If so, it should be fine. Our circle track motors, like someone else said, run 20 min. at 2-2500 rpms, then run at 6000 for the race. Even though the rings haven't completly seated yet (probably) you shouldn't hurt anything by ripping though it.

 

Shane, I usually replace the hold-down bolt with a stud when it's threaded into aluminum so you're not constantly turning the threads against the soft aluminum. This way, you won't have to buy ANOTHER $50 Helicoil :) Just bring the bolt to a hardware store or Home Depot/Lowes and match it up with a $1 stud, nut, and lockwasher.

I'm curious to see just how low you can get that idle with that cam. What would you be happy with? 1000? 1500 sounds pretty high. You must get some pretty funny looks at traffic lights with open headers idling at 1500 :lol:

-Joe


[Modified by Flareside, 8:37 AM 5/16/2002]

 

i broke the cam in for 30 minutes. Took the car out and ran it for about 20 miles just to see if any leaks or wild changes in oil or water pressure. Came home adjusted the valves and let it cool down. Took it out the next day and let her have it. Shifted at 6500 and it was smooth as glass. Car still runs hard and never smokes or burns oil. It did seem to loosen up a little more after about 500 miles but they were not easy miles. All this was at the recomendation of the machine shop. he was saying if you have a roller cam just fire it up and have at it. The only reason to run soft at first is to break in the cam. I did run single springs on the cam break in. Just the outer springs. After that put in the inner springs and let her rip.
Bence go out and run it hard. It has enough break in time on it now.

 

That's not just the cam, it's the BB. Sounds good. You should get everything set up properly first.

When I built my first one, had a guy follow me home since we installed at his house as he had a hoist. I took it easy, but pushed a little. :cool:
When he finally arrived, asked him why he followed so far back. He said he had his "fast" F*rd on the floor the whole way.

:cool:

 

Shane, remember the Centerforce requires a break-in too...

 

Like everyone is saying the break in period is for two things, the cam/lifters and the rings/cylinders. If you followed the instructions that came with the cam and broke it in for 20-30 minutes or whatever they recommend, then they should be fine. As far as the rings go, it depends on the type of rings you are using. If you are using moly rings, and I believe if the engine was honed with that in mind then the rings should be seated within the first 10 minutes of use - a JE piston ring tech verified that and he really knew his shtuff about rings; that's also what a notable engine builder at Fast Times recommended. If you have cheap rings (and I hope you don't) thats when you have to break it in for 500 miles to allow them to seat.

Rob

 

Chris:
You know that's the strange thing, it's not spinning the tires. It's really violent! When I nail it in first gear the front end goes way up in the air (almost looks like I pulled the front wheels off that's how high). It comes back down when I shift to second and then repeats itself. Through all of this it had both me and my buddy pinned to the back of the seat. I don't think we would be pinned if it were spinning the tires. I'm gonna stick a dollar bill on the dash and see if he can grab it before I hit 4th gear....I honestly don't think he could.

Chuck:
Yes, the cam was broken in between 2000-2500RPMs for 15-20 minutes. I still really haven't run the car through the ringer, but once I get a few more things straightened around I'll see what she really has.

Joe:
Thanks for the idea! I'll probably stop into Lowe's and pick up a stud. I purchased the intake used and it seems like the hole might be slightly stripped out. I'll figure something out. To be honest a 1500 RPM idle really doesn't bother me. I got some looks when I had to go get gas, I drove down main street in my hometown. Keep in mind this is on open header side pipes, 1500RPM idle and no hood :D. So far I have managed to not see any cops. My L88 hood is coming in, in about 2 1/2 weeks.

Gordon:
My buddies are amazed that there isn't a hint of blue smoke from my exhaust. I'm gonna run her hard the next time I get her out.

Rob:
No I have good rings, Federal Mogul moly rings in fact.

 

The JE Tech said that the moly rings are often seated from turning the engine over on the stand, before it's even fired.... You could always call Federal Mogul and get their advice!

later,

Rob

 

I'm walkin on mine the second I back off the driveway! We installed new bearing and rings (re-honed) along with the solid cam. The pistons are last years so they're allready scuffed in. After the 20 minute run in and leak check it's going to see it's 7000 very quick.