When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am getting some 69style side covers and am looking at headers.
Most seem to like the Hedman 68280 here but they look like they are just as close to the motor mount and spark plugs as hugger headers which seem to get a lot of hate here.
I like to use the hugger headers as I have the steeroids rack and also want to keep it as tight as possible. Also will run F/I in the future so the huggers would help in running the O2 sensor.
For those that have Huggers or the Hedman 68280 are there issues with melting the motor mount and also spark plug/wire issues for you?
If you do a search on Hedman Headers you will see that many people who bought them a few years back or longer are very satisfied with them. Well it seems their quality control of late as fallen off. If you look at the pictures in this link you can't help but notice that the collectors are at about a 90 degree angle to the where the tubes come down off the heads (so they will tuck up nice and tight to the bottom of the car). While I did not have a small block car the big block set that I had were at about a 60 degree angle and pointing at the ground. Besides that there were other clearence issues with the idler arm being the worst. If you decide to go with the Hedmans 1st make sure you can return them if there are clearence issues and most important DO NOT "ding" them to gain clearence. If you do you CAN NOT return them. On a small block car there should be no issues. If there is send them back. Hope this helps. Good luck with what ever you choose.
Thanks 3JsVette. Idler should not be a issue for me but the Rack might.
For you and Big_Block_69 how close are the hedmans to the sprak plugs and motor mount? I still like to run the huggers but that was the isue many complinaed abiut yet the hedmans look like they would also have the same issue.
I am running a set of S/S shorties purchased from e-bay a couple of years ago. They set on the shelf till I installed the new motor. While test fitting them on the stand, They would not draw up tight, as they were hitting on the motor mount. I had to grind the corner of the motor mount ( on the driver side only) to get them to bolt up. I can see where this could cause the problem of melting a motor mount, especially a urethane one.
It was also very tight for the plugs to get in there.
I decided to make a couple changes to get them on the car. First, I built a 1/4 in. S/S plate motor mount, for the driver side only. If they melt that, I'm in big trouble.
Next I cut the flanges, Just because I like the look better. Then I machined 1/2 in spacers to move them out from the block that far and clear the plugs a bit. I did have to taper the spacers on the driver side a bit to clear the steering box and I now have about 1/4 in there.
Not for the faint of heart but I see no problem with thinking out of the box.
So the motor mount, if I understand and see right, is a solid metal setup you made? I think that may be a little firm for me. Also no leaks from the adapters you made to move the headers out?
You can buy solid motor mounts, but I prefer to make things that I can. Using the one only lets the motor twist into the rubber on the passenger side with out lifting any on the drivers side. As far as the leaks, I have none on the exhaust.
You can buy solid motor mounts, but I prefer to make things that I can. Using the one only lets the motor twist into the rubber on the passenger side with out lifting any on the drivers side. As far as the leaks, I have none on the exhaust.
Maybe the people who designed your shorties did it on an aftermarket head without the 10 degree turn-in on the exhaust port. This would locate the pipe out away from the motor mounts and alleviate the interference. Then when you use Chevy heads, you tuck them in 10 degrees closer causing the interference.
For you and Big_Block_69 how close are the hedmans to the sprak plugs and motor mount?
Sorry I can't answer your question. I never got that far. After the idler and collector issues I scrapped the idea of using them.
The knock on block huggers is they hurt horsepower but so do factory side exhaust. IMCO since you are not in a max horsepower race the block huggers may give you more options with ground clearence and O-2 sensor locations going foward. You may also consider to only buy from a company that will give you a refund (not a credit) if their product doesn't fit. Even if you have to try a few different manufacturers until you get something you're happy with it's better than beating and banging on pipes to get something to work.
Maybe the people who designed your shorties did it on an aftermarket head without the 10 degree turn-in on the exhaust port.
You bring up a very good point! There are well known and high quality header manufacturers that do their mock up work using only an engine and specs not a car to create a jig and build their headers. I bought a set of very high quality American made headers from a well known company with the understanding that if they did not fit I could return them for a FULL refund. Guess what? They didn't fit. When I returned them they said they fit their jig just fine and insisted there was nothing wrong with them BUT they did stand behind their word and reputation and took them back with a full refund. They did feel though it was the car not their product. The end of the story is a set of Doug's Headers fit perfect with NO clearence issues at all.
So you tell me if it's the car or the R and D that's the problem...........
Still thinking. May get a cheap set of ceramic huggers and try to make them work. Seems Hedman of late has been hit or miss so does not seem like there is a clear easy answer other than try and return.
Here are a couple of pictures of the Headman sidepipe headers. If you have Steeroids the Hedmans will hit one of the support brackets on the passenger side. I chose to alter the Steeroids bracket with a "V" cut, a bend, and a weld; not too bad a job. I spoke to the guys a SpeedDirect before I did the mod and they were good with it. I have some pictures of the mod but I'll have to search a bit.