73 not starting!
I've got a 350 crate engine from eagle, that has been running in my '73 vette for the last couple of years. I've never been happy with the performance (lag on acceleration, excessive heat buildup), and it's finally quit on me.
I was having some issues (Which I thought were distributor related - trouble starting, rough running, massive lag/stall when putting the foot down), and had that re-curved and serviced, and after putting it back in, the car still ran really roughly, and eventually didn't start at all. The engine turns fine, but doesn't crank at all. I've checked all plugs and leads, and get a spark through all of them. Fuel seems fine through the holley 750CFM carb, so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what could be the problem.
I've tried moving the dizzy around to change the timing, but haven't had any luck. Checked for TDC to make sure I wasn't 180 degrees out, and all seems fine there. I don't have enough cash to take it to someone at the moment, but would really appreciate any thoughts on what the issue might be / how to fix it.
My old man had a crack at fixing it for me prior to it not starting at all, and managed to mix up the 5 and 7 leads, which ended up blowing out one of the rear mufflers - not sure what other damage this might have done, but it did start a couple of times after that happened, so I'm hopeful it isn't anything too terminal.
Thanks in advance,
Lee
-old gas ?
-doubt you have a cat converter but if you do check its not blocked.
-check float heights on holley.
-powervalve in carb may be blown if its been backfiring.
-any vacum leaks?...eg carb to manifold , inlet manifold gaskets etc.
-plug wire boots arcing out on headers maybe?
-fuel filter blocked
-check and double check your timing and firing order.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Mar 13, 2012 at 10:27 PM.
Vacuum leak could be an interesting path - I had a new intake manifold installed, as the old one was apparently the wrong type (again, bad info when buying the engine) - how can I test for that? Or is it a matter of taking the inlet manifold off first?
Fuel filter is new, and looks clean (see through plastic filter).
Plug wire boots could be an issue - they were meant to be new leads, but I have a sneaking suspicion that they are not - they look a bit rough for the amount of time they have been in the car.
Will double check the timing again on the weekend.
Thanks for the advice,
Lee
-old gas ?
-doubt you have a cat converter but if you do check its not blocked.
-check float heights on holley.
-powervalve in carb may be blown if its been backfiring.
-any vacum leaks?...eg carb to manifold , inlet manifold gaskets etc.
-plug wire boots arcing out on headers maybe?
-fuel filter blocked
-check and double check your timing and firing order.
no problem. power valve wont cure your starting problems but thought i would throw it in since you mentioned backfiring.
Vacuum leak could be an interesting path - I had a new intake manifold installed, as the old one was apparently the wrong type (again, bad info when buying the engine) - how can I test for that? Or is it a matter of taking the inlet manifold off first? unfortunately testing for vacuum leaks is best done when the car is running by spraying something like carb cleaner around the gasket areas and listening to the engine rpm. if you spray and you get a rpm increase you have a vacuum leak.
Fuel filter is new, and looks clean (see through plastic filter).
Plug wire boots could be an issue - they were meant to be new leads, but I have a sneaking suspicion that they are not - they look a bit rough for the amount of time they have been in the car.
Will double check the timing again on the weekend.
One big thing i forgot to mention is your ignition coil. there are ways of testing them with a voltmeter by checking the resistance but they arent expensive so might be worth just changing it. sounds exactly like your symptoms .
Thanks for the advice,
Lee
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