Summit Racing Cam Degreeing kit?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Horicon Wisconsin
Summit Racing Cam Degreeing kit?
Has anyone used this kit?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1056/
Or is there a preferred kit out there?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1056/
Or is there a preferred kit out there?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Horicon Wisconsin
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 5
From: Livonia MI
Looks pretty much the same, as what I pieced together with a Jomar wheel. I normally degree during a build with the heads off, so made a piston stop out of bar steel stock. Not sure where I got it, but also have an extended lifter, for easier dial gauge readings. Sure you already know this, but depending on the engine, you'll be needing an assortment of offset camshaft keys, bushings, or adjustable gear. Actually, think the larger job "nonracer" mentioned, is the turn handle job, and aren't cheap. If the flexplate is mounted on the rear, usually enough to grab onto.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 142
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From: Tucson Az
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
I agree the best tool would be the biggest degree wheel you can find.
Myself,..being a cheap skate, just used the flexplate as a "wheel".
Once I found TDC with a piston stop I made from flat steel, I marked the flex plate with a pointer. (Just like using a real degree wheel) Then I looked at the cam card to see where the intake valve should make max lift,....and using my Captain Cruch calculator figured each tooth on my flex plate equalled 2.14 degrees. Count the teeth from the TDC mark, and mark that spot on the flex plate. Then I rotated the crank to move my new mark to the pointer while watching the number one intake lifter in the block to see it move.
Then I marked the flex plate a few teeth left and right of my "new mark", and moved the flex plate to one of those marks. Measured with a mic how far the lifter stuck out of the block. Move the flex plate to the opposite mark, and rechecked the lifter height. Sort of like finding TDC with a piston stop. The measurements matched.
I know it is crude, and am not saying this is "right". But I am fairly confident the cam is installed about as close as the cam card called for.
And definately better than just slapping the cam in without checking.
Myself,..being a cheap skate, just used the flexplate as a "wheel".
Once I found TDC with a piston stop I made from flat steel, I marked the flex plate with a pointer. (Just like using a real degree wheel) Then I looked at the cam card to see where the intake valve should make max lift,....and using my Captain Cruch calculator figured each tooth on my flex plate equalled 2.14 degrees. Count the teeth from the TDC mark, and mark that spot on the flex plate. Then I rotated the crank to move my new mark to the pointer while watching the number one intake lifter in the block to see it move.
Then I marked the flex plate a few teeth left and right of my "new mark", and moved the flex plate to one of those marks. Measured with a mic how far the lifter stuck out of the block. Move the flex plate to the opposite mark, and rechecked the lifter height. Sort of like finding TDC with a piston stop. The measurements matched.
I know it is crude, and am not saying this is "right". But I am fairly confident the cam is installed about as close as the cam card called for.
And definately better than just slapping the cam in without checking.
