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Pitman arm won't come off

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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:55 AM
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Default Pitman arm won't come off

I am replacing my steering box while doing my exhaust upgrade. The nut and washer came off easy.

The pitman arm will not come off the box. I have hit it with PB blaster, a 3lb sledge, a torch and a pitman arm puller. I even tried some of that freezing thread penetrant.

I heated it with a propane torch for about 30 minutes this morning. I then hit both sides with two hammers, trying to quickly deform the arm where it went around the splines. No good.

I used the Harbor Freight pitman/balljoint puller too. The one with forged fingers and a bolt. With the first one I sheared the threads off the bolt. With the second, I have used it to apply moderate pressure on the arm while I hit it with the torch. No good.

Today I will take it to a local shop to see if they can get it off. They have a press setup and bigger hotter torches than I have.

I've read stories on the forum about guys removing the arm while the box still on the car. If you have done this, consider yourself lucky. My box will not give up the arm so easily. I'm not beat yet though.

I will let you know how it goes.

John
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 10:04 AM
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I agree, the arm in on tight.
I removed the box and arm together and took it to my favorite Corvette shop.
He used a snap on puller and had it off in seconds.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 10:53 AM
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I had to use an Oxy-Acetylene torch on mine. Propane torches don't do much but get it too hot to touch. I wonder if a MAPP torch is hot enough. Does anyone have experience with those?
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by my 76 ray
I had to use an Oxy-Acetylene torch on mine. Propane torches don't do much but get it too hot to touch. I wonder if a MAPP torch is hot enough. Does anyone have experience with those?
Yeah, I almost bought an Oxy-Acetylene or MAPP setup. I hesitate to buy one use only tools though. I don't know if I would ever use them again.

I am hopeful my shop can help today.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by my 76 ray
I had to use an Oxy-Acetylene torch on mine. Propane torches don't do much but get it too hot to touch. I wonder if a MAPP torch is hot enough. Does anyone have experience with those?
I used a MAPP torch with a 3-arm puller (while listening to a conference call on my cell ). Worked just fine. A shot of PBlaster was added about 20 minutes prior to the torch.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Pitman arm requires a puller.

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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Pitman arm requires a puller.

I've got one and it still won't come off
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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i used a puller and oxy/acteylene heat and it took alot of heat and a lot of torque....it actually scared me torqueing on a cherry red pitman arm that was clamped in a vise....way too many things to go wrong
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jcloving
Yeah, I almost bought an Oxy-Acetylene or MAPP setup. I hesitate to buy one use only tools though. I don't know if I would ever use them again.
.
90% of my tools are one use tools!
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 01:34 PM
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My shop got it off.



They used a massive pitman arm puller and a 3/4 impact gun.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jcloving
I've got one and it still won't come off
Are you using an actual pitman arm puller or a gear/pulley jaw puller? It's hard to get a good bite with the latter. Pitman arm pullers are a bit stockier and not adjustable. You can get loaners from Advance Auto for no charge.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Are you using an actual pitman arm puller or a gear/pulley jaw puller? It's hard to get a good bite with the latter. Pitman arm pullers are a bit stockier and not adjustable. You can get loaners from Advance Auto for no charge.
I used one like this:



and like this:



and neither would work.

No problem now though. The arm is off.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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As you and I both found out, those don't work!
It needs a Pittman arm puller. LOL
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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I broke a Pitman Arm puller on my jeep. I bought a new puller and used the Oxy-Acetylene torch. That's why I used the Oxy-Acetylene torch on the vette when the puller alone wasn't getting it done. I was afraid the new puller was going to break too.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 06:03 PM
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MAPP gas has been fine for a bunch of things for me. Much better than propane.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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Good stuff! Yes a machine shop can do wonders that we home mechanics cannot do! What did you use to get the power steering control valve stud off the pitman arm?
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Pitman arms are a bear, and got mine off with the largest puller the rental shop had. Don't recall having to use any heat, but lot's of hammering involved. The shown pic's look like a ball joint seperator, and not sure of the second, but you'll be needing a much larger one here. I do have a small Oxy/Acetylene torch set, that comes in handy for lots of things, but maybe jumping ahead a little. I'd try a much larger puller first.
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
Good stuff! Yes a machine shop can do wonders that we home mechanics cannot do! What did you use to get the power steering control valve stud off the pitman arm?
Paul,

I used the black puller above. I am now cleaning all those parts. A huge box arrived yesterday with box, valve, cylinder and coupler.
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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You are never supposed to use heat on frt end parts. You risk making them brittle and subject to breakage. I've never seen it happen, but that's what you're taught in trade school. A proper puller is what it takes.

Steve g
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve2147
You are never supposed to use heat on frt end parts. You risk making them brittle and subject to breakage. I've never seen it happen, but that's what you're taught in trade school. A proper puller is what it takes.

Steve g
Thanks for the tip Steve. I never got it glowing red, so I guess it will be ok.
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