Stubborn harmonic damper removal
Thread Starter
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Stubborn harmonic damper removal
I have used the proper harmonic damper removal tool but without success. I stopped when I needed to rotate the 1/2" drive a half a turn more using a 1" wrench over the end of the drive for extra leverage. It's a Streetdampr I want to reuse so I can't apply any heat. Any tricks of the trade to get this off without destroying something?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Keep going, your only choice.
Here is a pic of a proper one.
I've used a 3 ft breaker bar with it before.
It also has a cone that turns at the base of the rod.
I use molyd oil on the threads and cone. Some may bind quite a bit in the threads without good lube.
Here is a pic of a proper one.
I've used a 3 ft breaker bar with it before.
It also has a cone that turns at the base of the rod.
I use molyd oil on the threads and cone. Some may bind quite a bit in the threads without good lube.
Thread Starter
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Thanks, Noonie. My removal tool is the same as yours but not quite as robust and made offshore. So, damn the torpedos and go at it again with some lubricated threads.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 577
Likes: 6
Lubricate the threads and cone and as mentioned if you have access to an impact wrench they will make things easier.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
One thing I have found that helps the most, if you have the room, is to hit the end of the puller hard with a big hammer while there is a lot of tension on it. Never needed it on a balancer, but works well on pitman arms and front end joints.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
STOP! tighten it up until you feel some pressure, get a BIG HAMMER and WHACK! the center bolt of the damper removal tool. This should shock any chemical bonding (rust) between the damper and the crank snout. Keep going little by little until it frees up (you also might want to try to use PB Blaster or Kroil lubricant spraying in the crank snout and pulling the timing cover forward and hitting the back side with some.)
This shock method also works with the infamous Kent Moore rear spindle bearing removal tool, where if you try to impact off the spindle, you end up bending the caliper mounting bracket.
This shock method also works with the infamous Kent Moore rear spindle bearing removal tool, where if you try to impact off the spindle, you end up bending the caliper mounting bracket.
Thread Starter
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Got 'er done! Wasn't too keen on the bfh except as a last resort. So, I greased the threads and cone with EP wheel bearing grease and screwed it in with an impact wrench. Worked like a charm! Thanks to all for your advice.
