Just did a major oiling system overhaul to get my car ready for a track day in a few weeks and I did my initial shakedown run today... One of the things I changed was the oil temp sender location. Previously, I had it in the port right above the oil filter. When I beat on the car hard, I could get my oil temps to climb right up to 240*+.
I did the same run as I did to get those previous readings, and I could barely get the temps up to 200* with the sender in the pan
Heres what I changed:
Switched from a high volume/high pressure pump to high pressure standard volume.
Changed oil from 10/40 Valvoline conventional to Mobile 1 5/30 synthetic
Temp sender location is now in the oil pan with a 140-300* gauge vs my old 100-250* gauge

The canton pan has a port on top of the kickout for a temp sensor. I plugged that and put the sensor in the side of the kickout hoping it would be completely covered in oil there. I am still not totally convinced that it is completely covered in oil since it is still close to the top of the kickout. Would that be causing a lower temp reading?

The Canton RR pan is a very nice piece, and fits well. I was able to get it to drop oil pressure one time under extreme braking and a quick turn after an opposite highspeed sweeper though. Couldnt get the oil pressure to budge under any other "spirited" driving conditions. We will see how it does on the Auto-X and road course in a few weeks.


I bought this thinking I was definitely going to need a cooler, but if my gauge is correct, I might not need it. It sure is nice though...


Also, I would like to thank TSW for his advise on getting my oiling system set up the right way.

 

You're quite welcome. Nice pan choice, BTW.

As for sender location, since the critical oil temp is that the bearings and such internals "see", and since the pump itself can put some heat into the oil, IMCO it's really best to get a reading of the oil at the furthest point downstream of the pump as you can just as it's entering the supply galleys (definitely post-cooler, where applicable). Yep, in AX/RR mode you're very likely reading air a fair amount of time at the sump location.

FWIW, I would have probably suggested trying a standard pressure pump and only shimming the relief as needed. Of course, you could still go to the trouble to adjust it down if you're seeing anything excessive. (Required oil PSI = max RPM / 100).

 

Im going to move the sender tomorrow and see what kind of readings I get. Ive got two temp senders I can use so I may leave both in and compare readings.
I was able to get my pressure closer to 10/1000 with the high pressure pump and thinner oil. Its close enough for me to not warrant changing the pump again. I really just wanted the high volume pump gone.

 

I would put my money on the either the gauge requires a different ohm sender or the sender is not covered with oil.

No road race pan will work if your car can do over 1"G" turning or braking. If you are running slicks on the road course you have to have something like an Accusump device.

The problem with those oil cooler filter sandwich devices is that most of them were designed by dick heads. The way they mount the output lines are directly into the headers. I went around and around with the accusump guy trying to tell him that it has to be made so the I/O lines go to the front or back of the car.

 

I used the sender that was sent with the gauge... Hopefully it's the correct one but you never know. I'm thinking the sender is not covered in oil. Might have time today to change it back to the port above the filter. I'll see what kind of readings I get then.
As for the pan, I don't run slicks on the car (at least for now) and I have 300 tread ware tires on it. I'd be surprised if I was pulling 1G on the track with my setup (and skill).
The sandwich plate should fit with the lines facing the front of the block. I did a quick test fit and it seemed like it would work. It's an Earls piece. Real nice quality (visually) and cheaper than the cast Mocal ones

 

Based on my experiences and efforts to find something better than typical gated RR pans shy of going dry sump, I'd have to agree with George that there probably isn't any wet sump pan out there that will work at or near 1G without help. And, yes, an accumulator and other possible measures did come up when the OP and I were discussing the matter privately.

Lucky me, my hi-perf BB has oil cooler in/out ports!