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Took the vette down to have aligned. Was told that it was crabbing and with the new rods on the rear I just figured the guys did not get it back into alignment. Got a call a few minutes later telling me that they could not align the car as there were bent pieces. Ask them to explain and all they could tell me was once the rear was in the air, the tires would move. They said that if I put one hand on the top and the other and on the bottom of the tire it would move (ie like you would be checking the front bearings).
Now I have not seen it as no one works on my car now but me, so tonight I will be jacking the car up and checking it. I have replaced all the bushings (poly), put on a monoleaf spring (with shocks). The bearings were supposedly replaced when the bushings were done.
What do I need to be looking for? Could it be the bearings? Trailing arms?
Guess it will never end..
:cry
Hey Sprinter, It is more than likely the inner yokes. my 68 is having the same problem. A little play at the yoke makes alot of movement at the top of the tire. With the weight on the tires it probably doesn't change alignment because there is always pressure on the yokes. Craig
I agree. Mine were worn about to the snap ring.. (.200" ) There shoul be almost no in-out play. They sell reconditioned ones that are actually better than new because the factory only flame hardens the end so once the first few thousandths wears, the wear becomes very fast. The reconditioned ones use a hardened button that will not wear as fast. About $100 per side. You'll aslo want to put in new spicer U joints.
Thanks guys. They wont even try to align the car with that movement. I will look and see how bad it is tonight. If it just slight play they should last to the end of the summer. What other damage can I do if I put this off for a while?
..
IF the yoke wears to the snap ring groove, the snap ring could (not will) drop into the gears and then who knows what would happen.. I would fix it ASAP. The half shaft U-joint bolts will dig into the rear housing when the yokes wear as much as mine did.
How much movement is there AT THE YOKE/DIFF INTERFACE? 1 mm, 1 cm, 1 inch? In past threads, the concensus has been that something on the order of 0.020" is tolerable. That does translate into a noticable amount of movement at the wheel.
Well, it looks like replacement time :cry Left wheel moves about 1/2 inch. Right wheel moves 2" :eek: . SOOo can this be done with the rear in the car or does it need to be pulled out? Been quite a few years since I have done one of these. Any thing else I need to look at while I am there besides the usual (ie wear patterns, pitted bearings,etc.)? Anyone want to help? :jester
Thanks guys for the info.
The WHEEL might move a good bit. You need to get the reasr of the car off the ground and look at where the side yoke goes into the differential and see how much it's moving there.
This is way over the .020 limit you stated earlier. This could be measured with a yard stick..
I guess the cover will come off tomorrow. I will finally find out what real ratio is in the rear now.
Sprint,
Keep us posted on your progress, I'm about to do the same on mine and will be interested in what you find along your journey through the rear end.
As I recall you can't get the cover off without dropping the whole rear. the upper mounting bolts are in from the top down through the upper cross member. the tough part of the job is getting the upper cross member loose from its mounting pads on the frame. These are a SOB to get loose. I need to tackle this job shortly too so keep us posted. Good Luck, Craig :seeya
Dropping the crossmember might be easier for my this tim around as we just last summer replaced all the bushings and put the Hold down kit in. So.. I will start on it tomorrow and let everyone know how it goes...