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Could be, but it would have to be grossly misadjusted to cause run-on. Make sure the idle speed is correct and the anti-diesel solenoid is functioning properly.
Thanks, I will get the timing checked out, it is idleing around 7,000 rpms. I was wondering about the octane, when I first got the car it had been sitting so I put some 93 octane in it, then back to 87 last fill up.
I was waiting in line for my saftey inspection over the weekend and I read the owners manual, the owners manual actually says to use 91 octane....so I am kind of confused on what gas is best.
'75s were built to run on what's called 87 octane today. The '91' octane in your owner's manual is in the 'old' rating system which changed a few years later.
Today's 93 octane is equivalent to about 98-99 in the old system.
Last edited by Mike Ward; Apr 4, 2012 at 09:58 AM.
Mike is right. It should run on 87. I would run most of the gas out, fill with the highest octane you can buy and adjust the timing per the sticky on this forum.
If your car is idling at 7,000 as you stated it should last about 5 minutes.
You mentioned the car sat for a while. what is a while (10 years?). Without stabelizer and a low fuel tank you could have some water condensation in the fuel which would cause a knock when you turn it off.
'75s were built to run on what's called 87 octane today. The '91' octane in your owner's manual is in the 'old' rating system which changed a few years later.
Today's 93 octane is equivalent to about 98-99 in the old system.
Actually, inginition timing doesn't have anything to do with run on, as theres no spark at that point. Run on, is usually a combination of low octane fuel, and engine carbon deposits still glowing red. A fuel cut off solinoid will help, but you'll still be feeding from carb bowels for awhile. Maybe see if you can somehow clean up the internal carbon deposits. I have an old Gumout kit, that actually runs the car on a can of Gumout for a few minutes, but not sure how well it works.
Mike is right. It should run on 87. I would run most of the gas out, fill with the highest octane you can buy and adjust the timing per the sticky on this forum.
If your car is idling at 7,000 as you stated it should last about 5 minutes.
You mentioned the car sat for a while. what is a while (10 years?). Without stabelizer and a low fuel tank you could have some water condensation in the fuel which would cause a knock when you turn it off.
Thanks, no the car sat for a few months without being driven. I will get all that checked out next weekend. Was planning on completely detailing the car inside and out (engine bay included).
Actually, inginition timing doesn't have anything to do with run on, as theres no spark at that point. Run on, is usually a combination of low octane fuel, and engine carbon deposits still glowing red. A fuel cut off solinoid will help, but you'll still be feeding from carb bowels for awhile. Maybe see if you can somehow clean up the internal carbon deposits. I have an old Gumout kit, that actually runs the car on a can of Gumout for a few minutes, but not sure how well it works.
I actually just added some of that last Saturday, I guess it's working on getting the rest of the crap out of the system.
[QUOTE=Vette5.5;1580465311]Actually, inginition timing doesn't have anything to do with run on, as theres no spark at that point.
Not true. Timing has everything to do with knock. If the timing is way off it builds combustion chamber terperatures to the point of ignition at the wrong time without the spark. A car can even overheat if the timing is off. Likewise higher octane gas helps to keep cylinder temps low because high octane fuel burns slower and more evenly allowing for more power, less stress on the reciprocating parts and lower temps.
Actually, inginition timing doesn't have anything to do with run on, as theres no spark at that point.
Not true. Timing has everything to do with knock. If the timing is way off it builds combustion chamber terperatures to the point of ignition at the wrong time without the spark. A car can even overheat if the timing is off. Likewise higher octane gas helps to keep cylinder temps low because high octane fuel burns slower and more evenly allowing for more power, less stress on the reciprocating parts and lower temps.
The OP was asking about engine run-on , not spark knock .
because high octane fuel burns slower and more evenly allowing for more power, less stress on the reciprocating parts and lower temps.
Since we're correcting each other's myths- this one is false too. Octane rating has no connection to speed at which the gas burns, or temperature, or energy released.
Hey 75 Stinger- what speed does your engine run at when you unplug the anti dieseling solenoid?
Run a trickle of water down the throat of the carb and it will clean the pistons off.
Up either you are running crap gas or you need to bump up the timing 2 degrees until it stops running on or until its hard to start.
Worst case is the timing chain just stretched and your timing retarded a few degrees.
Since we're correcting each other's myths- this one is false too. Octane rating has no connection to speed at which the gas burns, or temperature, or energy released.
Hey 75 Stinger- what speed does your engine run at when you unplug the anti dieseling solenoid?
I agree about the amount of energy released. I wasn't implying it had more energy. It's the same energy but allowed to be released slower instead of a sudden explosion but disagree about the speed not being slower. It is slower and more even. Thus the piston is pushed down and not hammered down.
Here's a quote from The Service Advisor "Octane, by definition, is the resistance to burn or detonation. The higher the rating, the slower the burn when ignited during the compression burn cycle of the piston. The higher octane allows for better control of burning for high compression engines. So we want to match the correct octane rating of the gasoline to the engine design to ensure complete burning of the gasoline by the engine for maximum fuel economy and clean emissions."
I agree about the amount of energy released. I wasn't implying it had more energy. It's the same energy but allowed to be released slower instead of a sudden explosion but disagree about the speed not being slower. It is slower and more even. Thus the piston is pushed down and not hammered down.
Here's a quote from The Service Advisor "Octane, by definition, is the resistance to burn or detonation. The higher the rating, the slower the burn when ignited during the compression burn cycle of the piston. The higher octane allows for better control of burning for high compression engines. So we want to match the correct octane rating of the gasoline to the engine design to ensure complete burning of the gasoline by the engine for maximum fuel economy and clean emissions."
I'm sorry, but that's just plain cr*p. The writer obviously doesn't understand the mechanics of detonation. Here's what he puts at the bottom of his page:
"NOTE: I do not proclaim to be an expert in these matters, but am only presenting an overview of what I have discovered in my work in this industry with the different auto manufacturers.
Copyright, 1997, J. Daniel Emmanuel"
Well there's an understatement
A 'slow burn' could not possibly affect or cure 'detonation'. It's been explained and beaten to death a hundred times here, please read up.
No, actually "08vycpe" brings up an important point. He's saying, if the ignition timing's way off with the engine running, the combustion chamber temperatures could be way higher than normal, when the engine is shut off.
No, actually "08vycpe" brings up an important point. He's saying, if the ignition timing's way off with the engine running, the combustion chamber temperatures could be way higher than normal, when the engine is shut off.
This is correct but this condition is pre-ignition, not detonation. Octane rating of gas has no effect on pre-ignition. The OP's car was designed and built to run on 87 (regular) gas and he has made no mention of detonation, so the continued detours into discussing 'octane' is a red herring.
The mid 70s cars were deliberately 'timed' to run as high a combustion chamber, coolant and exhaust temperature as possible for pollution reasons. The resulting tendency for run-on or dieseling was dealt with effectively by closing the throttle completely after the ignition was turned off. That's why I've asked (now for the third time) about the anti-dieseling solenoid.