Question for Painters
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande AZ
Question for Painters
I'm having a Die Back / Loss of Gloss after buffing problem.
The problem is only on my hood and top cover which were painted
seperately from the rest of the car. The items look great immediately after buffing but they get a light haze after a couple hours. I used PPG DCD Delta Clear with DU5 hardner. I waited about 30 hours before color sanding.
My question is... what's the cure? Do I just rebuff in a couple days?
Anybody ever have this problem??
Thanks!
The problem is only on my hood and top cover which were painted
seperately from the rest of the car. The items look great immediately after buffing but they get a light haze after a couple hours. I used PPG DCD Delta Clear with DU5 hardner. I waited about 30 hours before color sanding.
My question is... what's the cure? Do I just rebuff in a couple days?
Anybody ever have this problem??
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Re: Question for Painters (lbell101)
I used PPG DCU 2082 (don't remember hardener), but mine stayed nice. What are you using to wash up with after sanding? Alcohol will mar the finish, so would anything that has a skin conditioner like some liquid hand soaps. I used Safeway brand liquid anti-bacterial hand soap and it left the paint clean. Other brands like dial and such include an oil based skin treatment that you don't want on your paint. The problem may be particals like lint sticking to the skin treatment gunk.
[Modified by Rockn-Roll, 5:04 PM 5/18/2002]
[Modified by Rockn-Roll, 5:04 PM 5/18/2002]
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Question for Painters (Rockn-Roll)
I usually wash up with dish detergent. but I always do that so I don't think it's effecting the paint. I don't touch the paint after color sanding. it gets buffed to it's final state. I'm really hoping it's just a curing problem that will harden and buff ok. I REALLY don't want to re-clear it!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 5,210
Likes: 104
From: Fort Worth TX
St. Jude Donor '06
Father & Son St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Question for Painters (lbell101)
On something like that, I'd call the manufacturer. It does sound like a curing problem . . . but I'd get advice from the horses mouth ASAP. If you have trouble getting direct help, have the paint supplier put you in touch with the manufacturer's rep they deal with regularly. And post the answer they give you please.
You may want to have the conditions when you painted written down to provide to them; temperature, humidity, time of day etc. I've heard humidity can cause problems, but I've never experienced any.
You may want to have the conditions when you painted written down to provide to them; temperature, humidity, time of day etc. I've heard humidity can cause problems, but I've never experienced any.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,653
Likes: 6
From: North Royalton, OH
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Re: Question for Painters (lbell101)
Humidity and cooler temperatures can have a marked effect on the final finish. Different manufacturers have different cures for cool / humid conditions. Some solutions include using different curing agents and/or different solvents with varied evaporation rates. You may have some solvent entrapment under the clear that is causing the hazing, and that will generally go away with time- your coating may not be cured enough to buff yet. Are you using a natural wool buffing pad - not a synthetic? Give it a bit of time - this should clear up. Let us know what happens!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Question for Painters (BSiegPaint)
Thanks guys!
I just went and looked at it again. It's very faint but not satisfactory to me. At least it's not a severe case. I believe it will buff fine soon.
I found some info about die back online and it appears that it's almost always due to solvents still evaporating from the paint. They say in mild cases that buffing after cure will resolve the problem.
I'm assuming I'm using a real wool pad... hmmmm. I only use wool for the first go around then to progessivly finer foam pads and cleaners. Usually comes out like glass and stays that way.
I'm going to hit a small spot with fine cut and a soft pad in the morning. Then I'll let it sit a couple hours. I'll let you know what happens!
Thanks!
I just went and looked at it again. It's very faint but not satisfactory to me. At least it's not a severe case. I believe it will buff fine soon.
I found some info about die back online and it appears that it's almost always due to solvents still evaporating from the paint. They say in mild cases that buffing after cure will resolve the problem.
I'm assuming I'm using a real wool pad... hmmmm. I only use wool for the first go around then to progessivly finer foam pads and cleaners. Usually comes out like glass and stays that way.
I'm going to hit a small spot with fine cut and a soft pad in the morning. Then I'll let it sit a couple hours. I'll let you know what happens!
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Question for Painters (lbell101)
I buffed a couple areas yesterday with a fine compound. It removed the die back. Some of it did come back but it's much better. Hopefully in a few days it will buff out without coming back again. I'm encouraged by yesterdays results.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: South San Francisco CA
Re: Question for Painters (lbell101)
If your paint (clear coat) was mixed properly it should harden within a few hours. However, that does not mean you can sand it and buff it the next day. I would park the car in the hot sun for a week and let the paint get good and hard and fully cured. Better safe....than sorry.
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,653
Likes: 6
From: North Royalton, OH
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Re: Question for Painters (lbell101)
I'd leave it be for a week or two. I'd hate for you to keep "trial buffing" and eventually buff right through the clear. With this goofy weather we're all having in the north, I'd wait as long as I could stand it to make sure the curing is completed. Glad it seems to be coming out right!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Question for Painters (BSiegPaint)
Yep - that's my plan. I've got lots of work to do on the car anyway. I'll buff it in a couple weeks and put it out in the sun if we ever get any.
Then I'll be MIA for a couple weeks. If it comes back while I'm gone I'll just sand it and reclear. Obviously I mixed something wrong or applied it incorrectly. I've painted quite a few cars and never had this problem. Thank God it's not the whole car!
Then I'll be MIA for a couple weeks. If it comes back while I'm gone I'll just sand it and reclear. Obviously I mixed something wrong or applied it incorrectly. I've painted quite a few cars and never had this problem. Thank God it's not the whole car!