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My car ran at 210 degrees today and don't quite know what to make of it. I have ran without a thermostat for over 4000 miles since the rebuild and it normally ran around 190 degrees. The only time it ran hot was it I was going fast, not that I do :rolleyes:, but let's say hypothetically if my car ran over 100 mph for a mile or so.
I installed a 180 degree thermostat and it ran 210 today? :confused:
Not a very wise thing to run any engine with-out a stat. If you are having temp problems you must solve the problem
1) make sure you have a high-flow 180F stat
2) your overflow tank must be installed
3)fan shroud and gaskets around rad must be installed " water pipe insulation works great"
4) 50/50 mix in your rad "use distilled water"
5) must not have leakes anywhere
6) rad must be clean inside and out
7) Rad fan must be correct for your engine
8) rad cap in good shape
I am running 180F with an 180F stat in my 454 with air. I have owned 3-C3's and not one had cooling problems.
Last year when I had the motor rebuilt they didn't put thermostat on. They said to keep an eye on the temp but they wanted it to run hotter so the rings would seat good.
I had a new water pump and radiator put on, but will check all the items on your list thanks.
Tominator, it's my opinion that running anything higher than 9.5 to one compression on a carb'd V8 with iron heads on today's gasoline is a joke, it simply will run hot, ping, etc...retard the timing and it's running even hotter...fact of life...I read your sig file and found 10"1 est compression and that is simply too high....
modern computer cars get away with it by alumiunum heads, and computers...
and better 'swirl' and flame propagation...
I just can't say how many times I have bumped compression to have these problems....and the ONLY cure is a huge oversized radiator....and in a vette espicially, there isn't much room...much less crappy airflow charactoristics....
My BB runs at 210 constant with a BeCool radiator and a constant mechanical fan..I have about 10.5:1 comp and its stabil..My friend runs with 12.25:1 and it pings without octanebooster.. :smash:
I have a different opinion about T-stats. I don't run one either. There is no one right answer; it all depends how you've tuned your combination to run.
To your original question: I once had a piston break between the top and 2nd rings (see http://home.att.net/~ncarboni/BrokenPiston.html). This resulted in higher cylinder wall friction and a hotter operating temperature all at once. I saw more blowby and a compression check isolated the faulty cylinder.
For what it's worth, Gene is pretty much right. I run 10.5:1 with iron heads, but I run it very cool (my comment above), I have EFI, digital control over the spark (including knock sensor), a big Griffin aluminum radiator, and have done a half dozen other things to keep it as cool as possible and avoid detonation.
Could someone post a few good pics of a "chin spoiler" ? Mine doesnt seem to have one and im curious to what this looks like? I cant find one in any of my books....
Could someone post a few good pics of a "chin spoiler" ?
I think what you're referring to is the black rubber strip along the bottom, though the center section that it's hooked to is part of the setup as well. It needs to be nice and low so as to pull air up off the road and direct it into the radiator. They often get pushed up as careless drivers bump up on curbs or speedbumps and bend the rather flimsy nose support.
On a hot day on a black road, where do you think the hottest possible air is? :)