1972vettman

Knew this time was coming but was hoping to hold off a little longer. Purchased new O-Ring calipers SS sleeved from VB&P, getting a new master cylider, replacing rubber hoses with SS braided lines, and replacing all the steel brake lines with SS ones. I know there is a lot of work in front me, read all the posts I could stand about bench bleeding the master cylinder, and posts from Roger, Noonie, and others for little tips. I do have a few questions that I didn't see in posts I read:

1. Is there anything special that needs to be done seeing that I am replacing all the brake lines? Any tips to make job easier?
2. Seeing that all the lines are being replaced can the M/C be bled on the car?
3. Plan on taking proportioning valve out and cleaning up, any suggestions as to how to clean/inspect?

Appreciate any and all tips. Thanks in advance

Mark Riles

1. Gravity bleeding is great when new lines are used. Just fill the master and keep it full and open up the bleeders and let gravity do the work. Once fluid is draining out of all four calipers then they are all mostly full and the lines are full. Bleed each caliper each time after that and you're good.
2. Bench bleeding is much easier but if you really are set on doing it in the car you must get the master level. This will mean jacking up the back of the car for the master bleeding process.
3. Just disassemble it. Springs and O rings need to be inspected. Put it all back together clean and free. Don't let it sit dry too long though make sure you let fluid go through the system not long after installing everything.

mds3013

One thing I learned from Noonie. Since the MC is mounted at an upward angle, a small air bubble can be trapped at the front when bled on the car. Gravity bleeding the system works great for me. mike...

Mark beat me.

1972vettman

In opening all the bleeders, do you still attach small hose and have drian into container as if pedal bleedeing?
Have you heard of bleeding MC at lines after it is bench bled? If so, how is it done?