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I have broke lots of things and some twice but I have never seen this.......I am unable to post the pic but basically the bracket that is welded to the frame that the pinion snubber bolts to is completly broke and flatend out.
The bracket that bolts to the diff is fine but the bracket on the frame is destroyed. I heard some clunking and found it....the bushing was still there and the bolt was tight but the center of the mounting bracket is gone and the remaining of the bracket is smashed flat.
I was wondering how many other guys has had this problem?????
I was going to find a junk car and cut that bracket off and weld it on but this may happen again......so I was thinking of making my own bracket out of 1/4" plate.
Just curious to see if anyone else has had this happen and how did you fix it.
I was using a polyurethane bushing and the bushing essentially cut a perfectly round hole in the frame bracket and pushed its way through. Bushing was perfect and all bolts still in place.
I found this weekend after running some 9 sec passes at 140+ mph and pulling wheelies! Never a hint of vibration at all. The thing that saved it probably is that I've added a *wing* plate off the rear side that attaches to the crossmember behind the *sombrero mount* and takes a huge load off the pinion mount.
I made a new bracket out of 3/16" steel plate and made it where the load is spread out across the frame and welded it all in place.
Now this won't be exactly like normal stuff..but you can get the idea of what I did. This i my Dana 60 IRS..but if you look at the plate at the top with the 4 bolts that come down through the welded in crossmember. I figure it was just sitting there and needed to be doing something worthwhile. When you dump the clutch and rear tries to rotate upward at pinion, this controls it a lot. (bolts loose so I could repair the front mount)
I was using a polyurethane bushing and the bushing essentially cut a perfectly round hole in the frame bracket and pushed its way through. Bushing was perfect and all bolts still in place.
I found this weekend after running some 9 sec passes at 140+ mph and pulling wheelies! Never a hint of vibration at all. The thing that saved it probably is that I've added a *wing* plate off the rear side that attaches to the crossmember behind the *sombrero mount* and takes a huge load off the pinion mount.
I made a new bracket out of 3/16" steel plate and made it where the load is spread out across the frame and welded it all in place.
JIM
yes almost identicle LOL!!!! the center is gone and the remaining part at the bottom that has the whole in it is smashed flat.
Now my car does not run 9's nor does it tote the front wheels I actually dont know what it would do if I could leave hard and it hook. I have broke spindles, drive flanges u-joints etc.........I really need the rear in your car!
I try to be easy on it but a 4 speed and some power is a ton of fun
ok so the two plates on either side of the diff in the first pic is all one plate which is welded to the cross member correct? Now that plate is sitting between the crossmember and the diff.....did you have to run longer bolts for the diff or really the 3/16" plate is not enough to make a difference?
Can you please post a pic of your new bracket when you get it on?
I was using a polyurethane bushing and the bushing essentially cut a perfectly round hole in the frame bracket and pushed its way through. Bushing was perfect and all bolts still in place.
I found this weekend after running some 9 sec passes at 140+ mph and pulling wheelies! Never a hint of vibration at all. The thing that saved it probably is that I've added a *wing* plate off the rear side that attaches to the crossmember behind the *sombrero mount* and takes a huge load off the pinion mount.
I made a new bracket out of 3/16" steel plate and made it where the load is spread out across the frame and welded it all in place.
JIM
This is a direct result of a Poly Snubber Cushion.... I've seen it and repaired it multiple times. I saw this thread name and instantly that thought came to my mind..
My Dana 60 housing is a Hemi one. It has a pinion snubber mount on top of it. Those *two plates* are actually all one piece. It's a C channel that bolts to the pinion snubber mount pad and hangs down on both sides straddling the pinion. Another piece of C channel comes up from the bottom with one leg inside and one leg outside of the *two plates* hanging down. I built it at angle that matches the stock frame mount angle and use a stock bushing and bolt to attach it to the frame. Where that bolt is in the picture is actually one of 6 bolts that hold the *legs* of the C Channels together. Hope all of that makes sense 'cause I don't think I have any pics of it all installed. But I'll look around.
My new frame mount is a LOT stouter than the original one.
With the poly bushing in place, the energy from the pinions nose mount pulled the frame bracket up enough to tear the frame bracket at its weakest point?
Now with the installation of a stock rubber bushing and the new C-shaped support plate you crafted, the pinion's upward movement remains more controllable, more stable?
The torque output from your motor really finds the weakest links when the tires hook, doesn't it? Mounting a running camera pointing to that point during a run would be some piece of video.
So the blame goes to the poly bushing? I doubt that. At least for normal cruising.
I'd have to say if just "normal cruising" was involved, none of that damage would be there. My '72 has 38 years of my normal cruising and it's still in one piece. The harder ya beat on them the more that breaks.
Duane
Well I think it is a combo... The diff is supposed to have give there and not be solid if you are cruising or hammering the car. The one common denominator when we see this problem is poly.
I am not using poly mine had the standard rubber bushing and still broke so I would say the issue is mostly in the bracket. Obviously Jim does not baby his car so under normal cruising I would say this would not happen at all.
I do not baby my car either a healthy small block.....4 speed and really big sticky tires is the culprit and a heavy right foot . I keep breaking things which is to be expected for how I use the car.
My uncle has a '72 with a strong small block but an automatic, he runs regular radials and has a poly bushing. He plays with the car but it does not hook like mie.....zero issues from his braket.
I am going to make my own braket using a much thicker and stronger steel than factory and I beleive that should resolve the problem......until the next item breaks
I'm still using the poly bushing, just on a much thicker bracket. As I said...it looked like new...it just wore a hole through the stock bracket. Just like you had used a hole punch. After it wore through...it finished tearing it. You can see how perfectly round the hole was on the lower right side of pic.
Things always find the weakest point. My new fabbed bracket spreads the load over a much wider area because it doesn't do any good to make a stout pinion bracket and then weld it to a stock thickness frame over the same area. It's been fixed for a few years now...so far so good.
And what do you guys mean I don't baby my car?? Just a nice little *cruise to the beach convertible!*.
I've got stock cushions on the sombrero mount with the aluminum support plates. The frame tabs for it are stock and not reinforced.. No issues. Stock trailing arms also.
It runs high 9's@142 on 93 octane, no boost or N20 through the mufflers. Drive in and bolt on the slicks, pull to the line and drop the clutch! It's only got 3.07 rear gears...but I make up some in the GF5R 5 speed trans.
I have replace 4 or those bushings but there was no damage to any brackets. 3 autos and 1-4 speed.
Maybe the bolt backed out and the driveshaft caught it and broke it all???
Mine pretty much did as you said and how yours looks.......with the exception that mine basically punched out the center.....so when your looking at it you do not even see the outer rounded part just the sides are there and the center is flat.
I have rubber bushing and the bolt was tight it just beat it out!
I see that you baby your car and go for little cruises just like I do in mine
I am going to fab up an H style barcket using 1/4" plate and completely eliminate the factory one.
Sweet ride Jim and those 2 suckers are really gonna add some fun......what ya got there a pair of 76's?
I thought about going twin 88's on my car but I would have to change my pistons........I absolutely love turbo cars I also have a quick lil V6 in my Buick GN.....roller motor with a 66 on it
Mine pretty much did as you said and how yours looks.......with the exception that mine basically punched out the center.....so when your looking at it you do not even see the outer rounded part just the sides are there and the center is flat.
I have rubber bushing and the bolt was tight it just beat it out!
I see that you baby your car and go for little cruises just like I do in mine
I am going to fab up an H style barcket using 1/4" plate and completely eliminate the factory one.
Sweet ride Jim and those 2 suckers are really gonna add some fun......what ya got there a pair of 76's?
I thought about going twin 88's on my car but I would have to change my pistons........I absolutely love turbo cars I also have a quick lil V6 in my Buick GN.....roller motor with a 66 on it
Post up some pics when you get'm mounted
Dont you think one Tempermental Turbo Car is enough?