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Vibration after transmission swap

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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by drwet
A little logic and some experimentation will tell you where the problem is coming from before you start throwing parts at it.
You cannot argue that mindlessly throwing parts at it will help the economy. So that strategy is not all bad.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by qwank
vibration is the same RPM in every gear.
Sounds like your problem is in the flywheel, clutch or pressure plate. Now try revving the engine while the car is stationary, in gear, and clutch depressed. if the vibration is still present you have eliminated the clutch disc and transmission as possible problems ( because they aren't turning). That only leaves the flywheel and pressure plate as potential problems. If the vibration is gone, then it has to be clutch disc, or transmission. I don't think its a driveline problem because that would be speed dependent, not RPM.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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I put the rubber trans mount in. I can still feel the vibration, although the car dose seem smoother with the rubber mount.

I def think it's the flywheel
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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I agree with the above comment.
Having just replaced my trans mount with a poly one (rubber one was distorting from age) I became concerned about all the talk on driveline angles and began reading all I could on the subject.
Assuming the mount you got had a height difference that was significant and threw you outside of the optimal angle, the literature I read suggested that it would induce harmonic vibration - not a consistent one throughout the entire rpm range.
Could it be part of the problem? Yes, but I don't think it would be solely repsonsible for the significant symptoms you are suggesting.
Then again I haven't lived through the problem (trans. mount) myself to be able to comment directly upon as it seems some others here have.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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The drive home was much more enjoyable with the rubber trans mount. There's still the vibration around 3000 rpm, but its not as noticeable.

I'm wondering if the pressure plate was supposed to be indexed, I didn't see any paint dots on it or anything. If American Powertrain would call me back I could ask them. If the flywheel run out is ok, I can always try to turn the pressure plate 180* and see if it helps.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
The drive home was much more enjoyable with the rubber trans mount. There's still the vibration around 3000 rpm, but its not as noticeable.

I'm wondering if the pressure plate was supposed to be indexed, I didn't see any paint dots on it or anything. If American Powertrain would call me back I could ask them. If the flywheel run out is ok, I can always try to turn the pressure plate 180* and see if it helps.

pressure plate is neutral.. and the bolt pattern i believe only lets it go on one way anyway....
did you read my thread on drive shaft alignment i posted for you?
just do not believe it is a new flywheel...
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by pauldana
pressure plate is neutral.. and the bolt pattern i believe only lets it go on one way anyway....
did you read my thread on drive shaft alignment i posted for you?
just do not believe it is a new flywheel...
yes, I read that thread while I was searching the other day. I still have to check my drive line alignment, but I forgot my inclinometer at home today. I'll have to do it on Monday if its nice enough to drive the car to work.

The PP should fit on the flywheel in 6 different positions.

The biggest vibration is definitely in the engine, and doesn't change when I depress the clutch.

Last edited by qwank; Apr 14, 2012 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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"The drive home was much more enjoyable with the rubber trans mount. "

Just a thought here, while you are trying to diagnose the problem which may or may not be related to the trans mount, keep in mind that depending on which brand/model of poly mount you used you may have simply dampened the vibration which is still there by switching over to the rubber mount. In other words it may feel less severe but it is possible the source and cause of the problem still exists but it has been dampened more and therefore less noticeable.
I recently bought a shorter version of a poly mount from E.S. which also happens to be made of a much softer polyurethane than their other ones and find that it is almost identical in "firmness" to the stock rubber ones.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #29  
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I believe its your flywheel ,mine did this,it was out of balance.
Also,did you order your 5 speed from our group buy? if so when did you get it? Bill
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:04 PM
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yes, the rubber mount just dampened the vibration for sure. There's still a problem. I still think its flywheel/pressure plate related.

I installed a Richmond 5 speed, I did order the flywheel, pressure plate and hydraulic linkage through the group buy though. It took about 4 weeks for all my parts to arrive, the flywheel was drop shipped from the manufacturer.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
yes, the rubber mount just dampened the vibration for sure. There's still a problem. I still think its flywheel/pressure plate related.

I installed a Richmond 5 speed, I did order the flywheel, pressure plate and hydraulic linkage through the group buy though. It took about 4 weeks for all my parts to arrive, the flywheel was drop shipped from the manufacturer.
My flywheel was suppose to be balanced right ,but it wasnt,i learned a lesson not to trust everything anymore.I knew i should have had it checked.Had to pull everything again
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:19 PM
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Glad the mount helped. $10 improvements are always nice

The PP should fit on the flywheel in 6 different positions.
Yup. If you pull it out have it balanced even if they say it already was probably run you $25-$50. THen have them mark the clocking of the pieces. It will be smooth as silk after that. Chasing this stuff is a bitch when you have to pull/install the trans back to back lol. BTDT.
Keep at it, real sweet deal when its right.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Glad the mount helped. $10 improvements are always nice


$6.75

Yup, my best option now seems to be to pull it apart and bring the assembly down to the machine shop and have it balanced. a pain in the butt, but it will be worth it.

Pulling the trans isn't a big deal, as long as I don't have to pull the pedal assembly out ever again
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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Wish I could say that.
6 spd in an unmodified tunnel talk about hard to get in/out.
Forge ahead...
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette


Yup. If you pull it out have it balanced even if they say it already was probably run you $25-$50. THen have them mark the clocking of the pieces. It will be smooth as silk after that. Chasing this stuff is a bitch when you have to pull/install the trans back to back lol. BTDT.
Keep at it, real sweet deal when its right.

Originally Posted by qwank
I didnt see any external weights or holes drilled in it so i'm guessing its a zero balance wheel.
That is your problem. Neutral balanced flywheels will always have some holes drilled in it on the edge to balance it. Castings will never be 100% out of the mold.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako


That is your problem. Neutral balanced flywheels will always have some holes drilled in it on the edge to balance it. Castings will never be 100% out of the mold.
So I wonder if American Powertrain ever gets back to me, If they would just exchange it, or if I'll be better off just getting it balanced myself.
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by qwank
So I wonder if American Powertrain ever gets back to me, If they would just exchange it, or if I'll be better off just getting it balanced myself.
Let's see if I understand your thinking. Are you saying if American Powertrain exchanged flywheels, you'd install the new one without balancing just because they said it was OK? Bad idea.

Take your flywheel and pressure plate (with new mounting bolts) to the automotive machine shop and have them neutral-balanced together as a unit.
They will mark the married location either by paint stripe or punch marks.

I'm surprised so many folks that assemble engines just slap the parts together without checking clearances or having all the reciprocating pieces balanced. Seems like sloppy workmanship.
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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There seem to have been a lot of threads lately about vibration after transmission swaps. It will be interesting to hear if they all turn out to be unbalanced flywheels...

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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Let's see if I understand your thinking. Are you saying if American Powertrain exchanged flywheels, you'd install the new one without balancing just because they said it was OK? Bad idea.

Take your flywheel and pressure plate (with new mounting bolts) to the automotive machine shop and have them neutral-balanced together as a unit.
They will mark the married location either by paint stripe or punch marks.

I'm surprised so many folks that assemble engines just slap the parts together without checking clearances or having all the reciprocating pieces balanced. Seems like sloppy workmanship.
Right!
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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So I took the transmission back out and measured the flywheel run out. I had .015" runout.

So the question is, would this cause the vibration, or is it just the reason for the clutch chatter?

oh, and shortly after measuring the runout, my dial indicator fell off my tool box and broke

Last edited by qwank; Apr 25, 2012 at 10:35 PM.
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