Well, now that I installed a set of Jet-Hot coated Hedman Hedders after my 700R4 and DART Iron Eagle Head install, I have a few items to share for those considering a Hedman Header purchase:

Forget using the PF35 'long' oil filter. The Hedman's rest up against the bottom of it (I had to drop the driver's header to remove the PF35). I have since gone back to using the PF30 that the car came stock with. Gained about 2" clearance between the header and filter.

TH350 and 700R4 trans lines run TOO CLOSE to the header collector. I mangled my lines just to find that starter installation required even more bends in the lines. Now they don't remotely resemble the lines that I started out with. Just purchased a $10 tube bender and am going to pull the lines out in hopes of salvaging/re-bending them.

The Hedman header collectors stop just forward of the aluminum case of the transmission and are way to close to either side of the 700R4 for my taste. If I went with straight pipes, I'd be super-heating the transmission pan on the passenger side and melting the rubber sleeve that covers the gear selector on the driver's side of the trans case. I'm hoping the muffler shop can bend 2.5" pipe at the collector to get some space on both sides of the tran. If not, I may have to go back to the 2" exhaust manifolds ($500 spent on those headers...). Until I get to the muffler shop, I'm running straight pipes back to the differential area (sound like Dale Earnhard'ts #3 when I goose the engine).

In order to get the passenger header in, you have to disconnect the idler arm from the right frame rail and drop the center linkage. Also helps to remove the starter since, once the heads are in, it's a tight fit on the passenger side of the engine. Also pulled the dipstick and tube until I sorted out the header.

Forget reusing the metal sparkplug covers. I retained the 'v' shaped covers on either side of the lower crankcase so that I could run the wires to 1-3 and 2-4 without worrrying about the header pipes. But as for the metal covers that the pairs of plugs (1-3, 5-7, 2-4 and 6-8), there is no room (no big surprise). My DART heads are straight plugs and I found that the 90 degree plug boots work fine. I just had to find creative ways to keep the wires from resting on the header pipes.

The heads take 3/8" NPT fittings and my old heads used the 1/2" fittings. Caused me to buy those recessed allen-head chrome plated brass plugs for the heads and then I moved the 1/2" heat sender to the left front of the intake manifold (Edelbrock is kind enough to leave several 1/2" and 3/8" tapped holes in the 3701 EGR intake manifold).

I tried Lars' lifter pre-load instructions but I still have noisy lifters. May be wear and tear (less than 10k miles on the rebuild) or my lack of experience in knowing when I reach 0 lash using the static method (most likely the latter). Regardless, the valve covers will come off this week and I'll be getting the headers nice and oily as I adjust the noisy rockers...

Lars did an excellent job of rebuilding my q-jet. About $175 total expense including shipping it off to him.

The DART heads appear to work fine. I installed them with little incident. I found a clearance problem when attempting to torque the 'submerged' headbolt (that bolt that will spend its life submerged in motor oil just rearward of the #8 exhaust valve or just forward of the #1 exhaust valve). I used the 5/8" head bolts that are available from FelPro. The head casting has a bit too much material around the headbolt. Not sure if ARP offers a smaller head on their head bolts or not. I got around it using a 'Ford tool' (hammer) to force a 5/8" socket onto the bolt heads (and to stay there while I torqued the final 65 ft lbs setting).

I found that DART machines the valve cover rail flat and am hopeful that this creates a flatter/larger sealing surface for the valve cover gasket (appears to).

When I initially tried installing the alternator and bracket onto the DART heads, I suspected there was an alignment problem. Later found that I was trying to line up with the a/c compressor belt. Once I sorted the belts out, I found that the pre-tapped holes in the heads work fine with the stock alternator mounting hardware (no modif's req'd).

Installing my a/c compressor (short style) required grounding off a portion of that a/c mounting bracket (that bolt hole that once attached to the front exhaust manifold bolt). With the header pipes, Hedman just recommends sawing off this bolt hole as the compressor has plenty of other block attaching points (I counted three) to keep it stable.

I was worried that the new DART heads would be way too heavy (more than my 882's for sure!) to wrestle onto the block decks. Well, once I had a good hold on the top and bottom of the heads (length wise) I 'curled' them onto the deck surfaces and aligned them with the two dowels. Once on the dowels, I had two head bolts with #2 permatex at the ready to start (didn't want them to drop off).

Get the moroso starter shield from Jegs. $21 and it should help to prevent heat soak from the header heat.

While you are adding to your toolset for a project such as this, go to Sears and get the remote starter switch. It saved me using the ignition and running between my flashlight and timing mark and the ignition. I was able to attach the two leads to the starter and easily bump the starter around to TDC for the distributor drop-in as well as to advance the engine every 90 degrees when setting lifter preload (once you get to the #1 cylinder starting point that Lars describes in his instructions). Having the remote starter switch for this alone was worth the $12 that I spent on it.

If I recall any more bits of wisdom from this installation, will update this thread.


[Modified by TedH, 7:35 PM 5/19/2002]

 

Thanks Ted I just am about to install the Dart IE's s well and have been waffling between putting on my new '69 style sidepipes that I purchased in Jan, or keeping my dual setup up but running 2.5" into the Dynomax Ultra Turbos. Did you notice a marked performance improvement with your new heads and headers.

 

I gotta re-route the trans lines and install the starter heat shield before I make the run to the muffler shop. I haven't driven it yet so can't comment much on the performance improvement. With the carb recalibration by Lars, headers and the heads, I'd be expecting another 80rwhp since I'll finally feel the benefit of all of the other power adders that I had put on but had been running through the restrictive 882 heads and cast iron exhaust manifolds (Energizer cam, K&N filter, Performer intake, 9:1 hypereutectic pistons, dual exhaust). The IE's also have 72cc chambers so I should also get a bit more power due to the increased compression.

 

Ted try this if you have an old set of valve covers, much cleaner. From what you described when setting intial lash I would suspect you are out of spec on a few lifters.
I simply backed of the lifter until I heard it click then tightened 1/3 a turn ( some said 1/4 and some said 1/2 )

Runs like a clock now, BTW don't dirve it too much until you do this. :D




[Modified by MotorHead, 11:34 AM 5/20/2002]

 

Excellent idea! Was wondering what to do with that spare set of chrome valve covers hanging on the garage wall!!! Although, I sure hate to ruin a good set of covers for this activity. I'll think it over.

 

So are you saying that you are going to spread the header collectors
and tubing apart for more clearance around the transmission?
Will that help with any of the other clearance problem areas (starter, oil
filter, etc)?

Hope the thing runs as well as it should!

 

I would say forget headers a royal pain in the butt. For the BB guys you have to admit the orginal headers were and sill are a piece of art.

 

Quote-The Hedman header collectors stop just forward of the aluminum case of the transmission and are way to close to either side of the 700R4 for my taste. If I went with straight pipes, I'd be super-heating the transmission pan on the passenger side and melting the rubber sleeve that covers the gear selector on the driver's side of the trans case. I'm hoping the muffler shop can bend 2.5" pipe at the collector to get some space on both sides of the tran. If not, I may have to go back to the 2" exhaust manifolds ($500 spent on those headers...). Until I get to the muffler shop, I'm running straight pipes back to the differential area (sound like Dale Earnhard'ts #3 when I goose the engine).
-Quote

I had a similar problem with my Flowtechs. Here's how I got around it.

The reducer coupling that bolts to the header flange is 3" taper down to 2 1/2" and then about 4 inches long. At the end of the taper section I cut a notch out of the reducer so that when it was bent together the reducer was angled (pointing) outboard about 15 degrees. The exhaust shop was then able to match in the next pipe.

 

I'm re-routing the trans lines away from the headers (as much as I can). As for the pipes, I intend to have the muffler shop put a bend or two into the exhaust pipes that attach to the collectors so that I get increased clearance along the right and left sides of the transmission. With straight pipes, it's way too close to the transmission and radiating heat will be a problem. I won't be making any changes to the headers themselves; just to the items around them (shield for the starter, re-routed trans lines).

 

Sure could use a picture of what you describe here. Heading for the muffler shop at 8am on Weds morning. Gonna be loud!

 

TedH,in connection with the trans cooling lines,I made a set from similar size copper tube,much easier to bend in fact I did not use a bender just used my hands.Once i had them to the shape I needed took them to a local auto store & had them transfer the flare nuts & double flare the trans ends,then I just swaged the other end to hold the hose in place.Worked for me.

 

I'm planning on installing my coated hedmans here in the near future. Can you elaborate further on the header install-

specifically:

On drivers side:

>clearance to steering box
>clearance to steering column
>dropped in from above? slither up from below?

I have a 4 speed so you cant answer the Z-bar question. - although that will help me with the tranny clearance issue.

Passenger side:

>you already mentioned the idler and relay rod issue
>clearance to A/C box

can you take some shots of the A/c Bracket and other choice locations of the install? would be a real help.

Thanks

 

I installed the driver's header from the underside of the car. Plenty of room from underneath the car. An impossibility from above given proximity of the steering box and the width/lenth of the header.

Installed the passenger header from above after dropping the idler/linkage, pulling the dipstick/tube and moving hoses/etc. out of the way.

Passenger side clearance: header to a/c box - I'd say less than an inch from the #8 pipe to the a/c box.

Driver's side - About the same distance betwen the steering box and the #1 and #3 header pipes (approx 1") front-to-back.

Unable to get good pictures. Too dark without flash and spoiled with flash. Very close fit on both sides.


[Modified by TedH, 4:02 PM 5/21/2002]


[Modified by TedH, 7:53 AM 5/22/2002]

 

Ted, I don't have a pic, but I could fax you sketch.

A rewording of what I did. I notched out the reducer, by taking a pie shaped section out of it. Then bending the renainder to close up the gap, thereby creating an angle, and welding closed at the new joint line.

 

Cool, thats the kind of information I'm lookin for - as to the picts - no worries. :)

 

I forgot to mention that I put the front end up on jack stands. I think I lifted the car about 6-8" (jackstands were at their next to last height setting, they are "18-20 stands fully extended I think).

 

Hi Ted, some time ago you had a post discussing your installation of Headman Headers and issues with the exhaust being too close to the transmission pan. I have the same issues after installing a ZZ4 and 700R4 transmission in my 79. I think the fluid is getting hot from heat transfer as the water temp never goes above 160 but the transmission temp goes to 180 or more even when moving at highway speeds. How did you resolve it? I'm thinking a Thermo Tec clamp-on heat shield might work on the passenger side. The drivers side exhaust was modified by the muffler shop by slightly collapsing the pipe to allow more clearance between the exhaust and shifter linkage.
Thanks

 

A smart person makes or buys a cross member that the exhaust pipes pass under out wider than the stock holes. it keeps hot pipes away from the tranny pan.

I had headman headers and angle plug heads. I never had to remove anything other than the spark plugs????? I did use the shorter oil filter. It seemed to me that I installed one pipe from the top and the other side had to be wriggled in from the bottom. I have long ago went to the larger 1 3/4 Hooker S/C and they come on and off without any difficulties and I can use the longer oil filter again.

Corvette forum suspended editing or adding to Home pages in the fall of 2008 so that is why this is old stuff, but I have a picture of my custom cross member here

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/gkull/

 

I know the thread is old, but what series of headman were they?

 

Headman headers suck on the vettes. I wont use them anymore cant run a 1qt oil filter and plugs to close to some tubes and idler arm and steering box and the collectors stop in a odd spot. I been using FlowTech coated headers for years everything about them is way way better.