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How hard is it to install heads with the short block installed in the car? Using ARP bolts.
My heads for the BB swap are still two weeks out. Want to put the short block and T-56 into the car to mock up the transmission crossmember and get driveshaft measurements. If I can leave the engine in and install heads then I may install the clutch, etc.
Just trying to get a plan of attack. Power brake car so got the booster to deal with as well, FYI.
If the engine is out then I would wait because its so much easy'er..
I installed my short block to fit up my TKO-600 and to make my trany crossmember a 2 piece, then took it back out to finish it.
Probable going in for good this weekend. I dont like leaning over fenders with heavy loads.
How hard is it to install heads with the short block installed in the car? Using ARP bolts.
My heads for the BB swap are still two weeks out. Want to put the short block and T-56 into the car to mock up the transmission crossmember and get driveshaft measurements. If I can leave the engine in and install heads then I may install the clutch, etc.
Just trying to get a plan of attack. Power brake car so got the booster to deal with as well, FYI.
you can get a lot done easily that way with just a short block install, heads out of the way.....installed later.....the top of the mill assembles easily in the engine bay although not quite as nice as on a stand. with the car raised the fenders are more comfortable. the big blocks are easier to work on anyway...i assemble them this way all the time, i think it's easier.....jmo.....good luck .....
As long as you're using bolts, not studs, it's not hard to pull/install them; even with the pb booster. It takes just a slight bit of maneuvering to get them in and out. The biggest 'problem' is that they are heavy and awkward to put on by hand. I use an engine hoist with the iron heads so I don't strain my back.
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Apr 19, 2012 at 11:10 PM.
As long as you're using bolts, not studs, it's not hard to pull/install them; even with the pb booster. It takes just a slight bit of maneuvering to get them in and out. The biggest 'problem' is that they are heavy and awkward to put on by hand. I use an engine hoist with the iron heads so I don't strain my back.
I have GM aluminum heads- I've found that one of the head bolts at the left rear won't go in with the head in place. It's one of the mid length bolts under the brake booster. Once I found that. I just put the sealer on it and hold it with a rubber band until the head is in place, then thread it in normally.
If you only have a short block in the car, then 80% of the job needed to pull the engine out is already done, just do the remaining 20% and save yourself (and your back) a lot of extra work.
If you only have a short block in the car, then 80% of the job needed to pull the engine out is already done, just do the remaining 20% and save yourself (and your back) a lot of extra work.
Hamad,
New engine is sitting on the stand right now. While waiting for the heads, I am thinking of stabbing the short block in the bellhousing and transmission attached. That will let me figure out the shifter, tranny crossmember and driveshaft. Just wondering if I can get away with not having to it back out.
When I considered doing a head swap in the car, the main worry that I had was the head bolts by the AC evaporator case.
Since your car doesnt appear to be an AC car, I dont think you will have any trouble.
I just changed head gaskets (looking for water leak) on bbc in my 76 with air and power brake booster. It was a knuckle buster torquing a few of the bolts. I recommend taking short block back out.
If I had it to do over, I would pull the engine to replace the head gaskets.
It's do-able, just depends on how much of a rush you are in.