T trop trim removal
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Check the AIM for the screw locations (don't know your year), mainly along the door glass WS. There is one on the small SS piece that covers the joint.
Once all of those are gone he stuff is just sort of "clipped" on, some (or someone) might have put a little adhesive to hold them.
I took a small block of hardwood with a nice sharp corner and put it against the trim and tapped with a small hammer and just worried my way around and it popped off nicely.
I did mine when it was going for paint so it didn't matter but if I had to do it on good paint I'dd put a strip of masking tap on top to protect it from the wood maybe
Mooser
Once all of those are gone he stuff is just sort of "clipped" on, some (or someone) might have put a little adhesive to hold them.
I took a small block of hardwood with a nice sharp corner and put it against the trim and tapped with a small hammer and just worried my way around and it popped off nicely.
I did mine when it was going for paint so it didn't matter but if I had to do it on good paint I'dd put a strip of masking tap on top to protect it from the wood maybe
Mooser
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Check the AIM for the screw locations (don't know your year), mainly along the door glass WS. There is one on the small SS piece that covers the joint.
Once all of those are gone he stuff is just sort of "clipped" on, some (or someone) might have put a little adhesive to hold them.
I took a small block of hardwood with a nice sharp corner and put it against the trim and tapped with a small hammer and just worried my way around and it popped off nicely.
I did mine when it was going for paint so it didn't matter but if I had to do it on good paint I'dd put a strip of masking tap on top to protect it from the wood maybe
Mooser
Once all of those are gone he stuff is just sort of "clipped" on, some (or someone) might have put a little adhesive to hold them.
I took a small block of hardwood with a nice sharp corner and put it against the trim and tapped with a small hammer and just worried my way around and it popped off nicely.
I did mine when it was going for paint so it didn't matter but if I had to do it on good paint I'dd put a strip of masking tap on top to protect it from the wood maybe
Mooser
I used a paint stick to work mine off.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
it's not hard, but putting them back together right is the tricky part.
the trim along the front is shaped like a channel with teeth on the underside. the teeth are what holds it to the fiber glass and as it travels around to the side it fits into a clip. the side moulding is held into place with pop rivits. you will have to drill out the rivits. this is the thing though, the rivits are counter sunk so they are flush with the trim surface so the weather stripping fits flat with out gaps the could leak. i could not find counter sunk rivits so i made my own by drilling a hole that is the same diameter as the original rivit through a 1/2 inch piece of steel then counter sinking the hole with a larger bit. the 1/2 inch piece of steel is an anvil that is put in a vise. remove the pin from a new rivit. place the rivit in the hole and tap it with a hammer to change the shape to counter sink. reinstall the pin. make new rivits as needed.
i think there are a few screws to be removed also.
the trim along the front is shaped like a channel with teeth on the underside. the teeth are what holds it to the fiber glass and as it travels around to the side it fits into a clip. the side moulding is held into place with pop rivits. you will have to drill out the rivits. this is the thing though, the rivits are counter sunk so they are flush with the trim surface so the weather stripping fits flat with out gaps the could leak. i could not find counter sunk rivits so i made my own by drilling a hole that is the same diameter as the original rivit through a 1/2 inch piece of steel then counter sinking the hole with a larger bit. the 1/2 inch piece of steel is an anvil that is put in a vise. remove the pin from a new rivit. place the rivit in the hole and tap it with a hammer to change the shape to counter sink. reinstall the pin. make new rivits as needed.
i think there are a few screws to be removed also.
Last edited by 69ttop; Apr 20, 2012 at 02:35 PM.
