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Did they make much difference on a 8.5:1 L48? 67 cc might boost CR .5 pt? I wasn't really looking for heads yet, but have a chance for Brand New WP torquers for $659 deliveried-good or bad?
Thanks,
Gary
I've been running them for 2 years now. Undoubtedly, there are better heads on the market, but these are still pretty good heads. I was already running flat top pistons with 64cc 462 fuelies before I made the switch, so I actually gave up some compression. I eventually switched to .018" steel shim gaskets to get me back up to 10.0:1. You may consider doing the same with the head gaskets and get as much as you can. For what it's worth, I paid over $800 delivered 2 years ago, so that's a damn good deal. If you plan to make a lot of power or bulid a stroker in the near future, then I would shop for something better. If you are going to keep it fairly mild(300-400hp), then these will work well for you.
GTR
I've had the SR Torquers on my 74 for about 4 years now and they've been excellent as far as fit, oil control, and performance. They are just what they are advertised to be, a replacement head that works as well as the best OEM heads, and at the price you quoted they are an excellent deal. I have the 67 cc heads with 2.02 x 1.60 stainless valves.The smaller chamber is ofset by the thicker head gasket if you use composite gaskets. I don't think I gained very much if any CR. If you go with steel shim gaskets you may see a little increase but I doubt that you would feel it in the seat of the pants. If you are going to be looking at a high performance engine in the future, not a good running street engine, you should consider one of the better heads on the market. AFR, Trick Flow, Edelbrock, etc. all make heads that will flow better and provide better performance when you get into the high 300 or better horsepower ratings. If all you are looking at is a mild performance rebuild then you've got yourself a bargain. Good luck.
The S/R stands for service replacement meaning is is equal to the original equipment heads that came on your car. If you are looking for something with more power potential the go with the Sportsman II or something equivalant to them.
Not running them. About .7 pt. higher. Racing Head Service was supplying them w/ 180 ports & Comp Cams. 180 is a good min. for a 383, so will work w/ mild 383. Stock SR size may be about 175, large for a stock head.
Thanks for the input guys. I'm still thinking about these, I have till next week on the price.
Still thinking about what cam would be good for this setup too:
262XE,268H, 270H, Crane 272-2a?????????????
Gary
Thanks Ganey, but I'm surprised you think the 270 is a better match? With all the talk here about the XE cams and now Crane is advertising the 272 as better then the 262xe I thoguht they would be a better match?
What type of vac and idle do you think the 270 would have?
Thanks again,
Gary
Gary my performance rebuilder recommended for my needs WP s/r's and for a cam the 262XE or I believe a 260H for my '69 because of the auto.I chose the 262XE which Ganey said was a good choice for my '69.A bit of a lopey idle.I'm happy with my rebuild.
If I had a stick he would have went with a 270H.
My rebuilder rebuilt NJstingray74's(Frank) engine on his '74 and went with the 270.He has a stick.Franks vette idles real nice.
I think I have pretty much the setup you're thinking about. I don't have horsepower or torque figures because I don't have a Desktop Dyno program but this is my combination. Stock block with stock pistons, SR Torquers with 2.02 x 1.60 valves, full roller rockers with 1.5 lift, Crane Max Velocity 272 cam(now called Powermax) with a duration of 216 degrees intake and 228 degrees exhaust @ .050 lift and has a max lift of .454 inches on the intake and .480 on the exhaust. I'm still using the stock intake and Q-Jet but I'll be changing that over to an Edelbrock Performer this winter. I'm running Dynomax Ceramacoat headers into a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a crossover and soon to be installed Dynomax UltraFlow 2 1/2 inch mufflers in polished stainless. This combination idles at 850 to 900 rpm and gives me 15 inches of vacuum. It got a good bottom end for around town but wakes up nicely at about 2500 rpm. Can't give you top end figures on the rpm because I've never taken it past 5K but at 5K it still feels strong. Hope this helps in your decision and if anyone has a desktop dyno I'd sure be curious as to what this combo puts out.
Thanks guys, it seems to be picking the right cam is like a kid in a candy store!
Joe, I remember you saying your car runs strong and the same with Franks. You guys have better pistons the stock cast dished ones I have but they should work ok. The block is a 4 bolt,not that I'm going to pull past 6K!
Gary
HI Guy's,Joe I think your forgot that I have Sportsman 2 Heads on my car.Not sure if it makes a difference or not on the cam size.How are you doing Gary. Ciao, Frank :flag
Hi Frank,
Just trying to get one car together these days. So what's the 270 cam like? Do you have decent vacuum at idle and does it idle between 750-850 ok?
Gary
Hi Gary.The car idles just under a grand.Would say around 850 or so.I turned it down just a little.I have no problems with the vacum.The headlights open and close up much faster than before the rebuild.So far so good, nice and smooth.>FINGERS CROSSED<.Just need about 200 more miles to break in and then I can see what it's got. Frank>STW> :flag