Replacing vapor return line
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Replacing vapor return line
Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the metal vapor return line (down drivers side of chassis) while the body is on the frame? I discovered that mine was totally blocked, and no amount of carb cleaner/air pressure/snaking with wire can un-clog the line. I have successfully removed all of the clips to loosen up the line, but have not attempted to remove (although a few snips here and there would make removal easy). The bigger question is will I be able snake a new one in?
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Joined: Feb 2012
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Look into Cunfier line...
I just went through a similar problem with replacing all of the steel brake lines on my truck. It would have been impossible to replace them in one piece with steel. So...
I went with Cunifer Brake Line, which is also sold for use as fuel line. DOT approved, factory on some imported cars. Won't rust. I am still not sure why I haven't seen it spoken of more on this site. After using it, I sure wouldn't fight hard stainless or go back with steel that can rust again. It is a copper-nickel alloy that is much easier to bend as you work under the vehicle. I never had a bad flare using the Rigid brand inverted flare tool (double flare). I also didn't have any leaks; didn't have to go back and re-seat any of the flare connections.
The only thing bad is the price, but it saves so much time and aggravation, it was well worth it. Available here: http://www.fedhillusa.com/
I went with Cunifer Brake Line, which is also sold for use as fuel line. DOT approved, factory on some imported cars. Won't rust. I am still not sure why I haven't seen it spoken of more on this site. After using it, I sure wouldn't fight hard stainless or go back with steel that can rust again. It is a copper-nickel alloy that is much easier to bend as you work under the vehicle. I never had a bad flare using the Rigid brand inverted flare tool (double flare). I also didn't have any leaks; didn't have to go back and re-seat any of the flare connections.
The only thing bad is the price, but it saves so much time and aggravation, it was well worth it. Available here: http://www.fedhillusa.com/
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I did both the supply and return lines on mine this winter. It can be done but it's not easy by any means. We went in with the line basically sideways, up behind the storage compartments and slowly worked it up and around the frame kickup. It did loose a few bends so once it was in place it needed to be massaged back into shape a little.
Oh, I've got an auto so the cross member was out, with the welded in cross member I'd say no it can't be done.
Since the vapor line isn't really under much pressure, putting a splice in the line right where it turns that corner at the frame should be easy (steel line is a lot more forgiving for a flare)
Mooser
Oh, I've got an auto so the cross member was out, with the welded in cross member I'd say no it can't be done.
Since the vapor line isn't really under much pressure, putting a splice in the line right where it turns that corner at the frame should be easy (steel line is a lot more forgiving for a flare)
Mooser
