Sometimes also called a flare wrench
I hate it when that happens
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
I hate it when that happens
I have been sitting on a VBP rear mono spring for a while, and finally got some time to replace the old steel spring My son Stephen was in from NOLA for a few days, so we tore into it. Other than finding it a bit difficult to get the new spring mounting bolts started in the rear end cover, all went really well, and with one of my other sons lending a hand during the new spring install, we were through in an hour and a half.
So I thought "while I'm at it", lets swap out the flexible brake hoses for stainless braided lines. This all seemed to go well too, until we got ready to bleed the brakes. That's when I noticed fluid coming out of the connection at the drivers side brake block. While everything felt like it was going together correctly, it appears we got the new hose cross threaded in the block. The problem I am having is disconnecting the front to rear brake line from the damaged brake block so I can replace it. There is almost no room to manipulate a wrench. Are there special tools for this? Any tricks or suggestions?
The last time I had this stuff apart, it was a lot easier to work on because the body was off the frame.
So I thought "while I'm at it", lets swap out the flexible brake hoses for stainless braided lines. This all seemed to go well too, until we got ready to bleed the brakes. That's when I noticed fluid coming out of the connection at the drivers side brake block. While everything felt like it was going together correctly, it appears we got the new hose cross threaded in the block. The problem I am having is disconnecting the front to rear brake line from the damaged brake block so I can replace it. There is almost no room to manipulate a wrench. Are there special tools for this? Any tricks or suggestions?
The last time I had this stuff apart, it was a lot easier to work on because the body was off the frame.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 494
Likes: 2
From: rockwall tx
this still might difficult to maneuver in the tight space but if you can get a line wrench in there it will help to keep from rounding off the corners of the nut. If you round it off then your stuck cutting the line off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
Got the flare wrenches, but the space is limited, and I cannot get the wrench on the line. see picture. I may have to loosen the body mounts and lift the body 4 or 5 inches to get there.
Last edited by 71rdster; Apr 30, 2012 at 11:46 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
There should be enough flex in those lines to move the block over slightly, at which point you can get on the nut with the proper flare wrench. Then nudge the block back into place and re-install the clip.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
The block is forced into the frame mount right now by the front to rear line. The flare nut I am trying to remove is the one connecting the front to rear line to the block. The picture is oriented incorrectly. pretty much upside down. The two lines above the block are the front to rear brake line, and the gas tank to vapor canister line. The line and nut to the left of the block is the line to the passenger side. I think that in order to get the block to move, I need to detach the front to rear line at the proportioning valve and remove the frame clips. That may give me enough room to pull the block out where I can reach the line nut with a wrench. MYK7 offered another idea I am going to try first.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
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From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Try bending it.
71,
Line wrenches are cheap. If you can heat up and bend the wrench into an L shape, you should be able to get it in there and turn the nut one flat at a time until it becomes finger tight. A lot easier to do that than raise the body. Just think what dealer service mechanics would do in your situation. Would they raise the body or bend a wrench?
Sure, they'd probably charge you for raising the body!
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Line wrenches are cheap. If you can heat up and bend the wrench into an L shape, you should be able to get it in there and turn the nut one flat at a time until it becomes finger tight. A lot easier to do that than raise the body. Just think what dealer service mechanics would do in your situation. Would they raise the body or bend a wrench?
Sure, they'd probably charge you for raising the body!
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Safety Car
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From: Madeira Beach, FL
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Looking at the situation from he pic, I second the Crow's Foot socket suggestion.
The brass is fairly soft and if you get the nut slightly loose the rest should only be hand loosen.
The crow's foot will allow you to simulate the same effect as bending the wrench as Aussie John suggested which is also a very good old school idea.
When I worked at GM we often ordered shop tools for the line and they went right to modifying them to real world use.
The drawing board only goes so far during tool design.
Marshal
The brass is fairly soft and if you get the nut slightly loose the rest should only be hand loosen.
The crow's foot will allow you to simulate the same effect as bending the wrench as Aussie John suggested which is also a very good old school idea.
When I worked at GM we often ordered shop tools for the line and they went right to modifying them to real world use.
The drawing board only goes so far during tool design.
Marshal
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
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From: Hinckley OH
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
Okay! I got a set of flex head flare nut wrenches, and found that because of limited space, I could only get the wrench in place on the nut in a position with no room to loosen the nut. I can tighten it, but that's not what I need right now. Puts me back on the pull the body up enough to get access.
I disconnected the brake master cylinder and pulled it. I am replacing the brake booster and MC with some bling, and disconnecting the brake lines is a necessity for lifting the body. Removing the booster requires disconnecting the pedal from the brake rod. Is there a secret to removing the clip that holds the clevis in place that connects the pedal and the brake rod? It looks like I am going to have to pull the steering column.Is that right?
I disconnected the brake master cylinder and pulled it. I am replacing the brake booster and MC with some bling, and disconnecting the brake lines is a necessity for lifting the body. Removing the booster requires disconnecting the pedal from the brake rod. Is there a secret to removing the clip that holds the clevis in place that connects the pedal and the brake rod? It looks like I am going to have to pull the steering column.Is that right?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 442
Likes: 6
From: jacksonville Florida
you need a crows foot wrench http://www.amazon.com/Tools-Crowsfoo.../dp/B001E7W862 you can get them at sears and harbor freight. I just attached this link to show them.