LS1 Sidepipe Questions!!!
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
LS1 Sidepipe Questions!!!
I'm worried!
Bought big block headers from a forum member to modify to fit the 2002 LS1 I have. The headers have much larger ports than the LS1 needs from looking at them side by side.
Just wondering what size flange I should get...
there are 1/2" and 5/16" thinkness
and the port size. Match to the output on the LS1 or the size of the pipes from the big block? are the pipes too large?
Bought big block headers from a forum member to modify to fit the 2002 LS1 I have. The headers have much larger ports than the LS1 needs from looking at them side by side.
Just wondering what size flange I should get...
there are 1/2" and 5/16" thinkness
and the port size. Match to the output on the LS1 or the size of the pipes from the big block? are the pipes too large?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
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From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Sorry to say, it will almost be impossible to convert these. I tried converting some bb headers and I just couldn't get the bends close. Also your o2 sensor will be stick up outside the car. I guess you could run the wire through the side vent.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
After looking at your thread I remember reading it a month or so ago when you started. I'll keep an eye on it.
So what size port are you going with for your flange? I'm guessing get the size that fits the big block tubes...and they'll just be larger than the LS1 actually needs.
I have some good local welders that I'm hoping I can call upon to help me with the welding. I might try and tac it together on my own but get them to do the final welds...not sure yet.
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 569
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From: Clio Mi
Header Flanges, Steel, 3/8 in. Thick, 2.0 in. Diameter Round Port, Chevy, 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, 7.0L, Pair
Part Number: SUM-670192....
The idea is to get a .375 thickness. more meat is always better when your welding. it gives the welder a chance to "dwell" on the thicker surface longer to tie your thin schedual header pipe too. also i belive yor at an advantage over most.. you have the body off. which is nice for fabricating. this is no welding task for a novice. hooker header pipes are really thin. so i would suggest tacking and giving to a good welder for final welding. also choose very carefully where you cut your offsets. they need to be in a place whare the welder can weld completely around the pipe!. if your welder is a friend of yours have him come over or take the header to him get his opinion of where he would like to have you modifiy each pipe on the header. i have about 6hrs into the drivers side, i have about 2-3 hrs left to complete it. im not trying to steer you from the task... but they are very labor intensive. if there is any thing else you need, im here to help... and best of luck to you. Neptune
Part Number: SUM-670192....
The idea is to get a .375 thickness. more meat is always better when your welding. it gives the welder a chance to "dwell" on the thicker surface longer to tie your thin schedual header pipe too. also i belive yor at an advantage over most.. you have the body off. which is nice for fabricating. this is no welding task for a novice. hooker header pipes are really thin. so i would suggest tacking and giving to a good welder for final welding. also choose very carefully where you cut your offsets. they need to be in a place whare the welder can weld completely around the pipe!. if your welder is a friend of yours have him come over or take the header to him get his opinion of where he would like to have you modifiy each pipe on the header. i have about 6hrs into the drivers side, i have about 2-3 hrs left to complete it. im not trying to steer you from the task... but they are very labor intensive. if there is any thing else you need, im here to help... and best of luck to you. Neptune
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
I was also thinking. I have an angle gauge I was using for the driveshaft. Was thinking I could put that over an open port on the motor and that'll give me the angle the flange needs to be at when finished?
I'll see if the welders I know want to tackle this. Hopefully they do.
I'll see if the welders I know want to tackle this. Hopefully they do.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
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From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Sorry, didn't mean to be a Debbie downer. I purchased new gm flangers and had them opened up to fit the BB tubes. The problem was the seperation in port openings and limited ability to match up the pipe with existing header material. You probably will need to purchase a bunch of bends to cut up to get the No#7 pipe positioned right.
I ended up just aborting and ordered a header kit from Speedway. Have you decided what you are going to do for O2's?
I ended up just aborting and ordered a header kit from Speedway. Have you decided what you are going to do for O2's?
Last edited by Budman68; May 9, 2012 at 09:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
Sorry, didn't mean to be a Debbie downer. I purchased new gm flangers and had them opened up to fit the BB tubes. The problem was the seperation in port openings and limited ability to match up the pipe with existing header material. You probably will need to purchase a bunch of bends to cut up to get the No#7 pipe positioned right.
I ended up just aborting and ordered a header kit from Speedway. Have you decided what you are going to do for O2's?
I ended up just aborting and ordered a header kit from Speedway. Have you decided what you are going to do for O2's?
I saw a post from SuprJames and how he mounted his O2 port down near the collector on the inside...
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Sneads Ferry NC
This is how I did my O2 bungs, just gotta make sure you angle them down slightly if not they will hit the frame, even with the slight angle down you still can't see my O2 sensors.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
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From: Fremont CA
It is also important to have O2 sensors angled down so water dosent collect in them and cause them to fail.
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: Fisher, IL
Well my normal welders don't do exhaust work much so before I went to ask them I went to a well recommended exhaust shop and was sadly disappointed.
For an exhaust shop they don't do mandrel bends and he couldn't give me an estimate on what it would cost. and didn't want to attempt it without the engine/frame there.......................
SO I think i'll look into buying piping online, cutting what I need, welding it in place then taking it to my welders to weld solid.
Or keep looking for a place that does mandrel bending...
For an exhaust shop they don't do mandrel bends and he couldn't give me an estimate on what it would cost. and didn't want to attempt it without the engine/frame there.......................
SO I think i'll look into buying piping online, cutting what I need, welding it in place then taking it to my welders to weld solid.
Or keep looking for a place that does mandrel bending...
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 78
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From: SoCal California
If I'm not mistaken, the LS2 and LS3 have a taller deck height which and slightly larger exhaust ports which makes the headers a bit different. Consequently, the heads (and headers) will be slightly higher and closer to the shock towers versus with an LS1. If the header openings are a bit too large, there will be no real problem. Sure, there will be a slight bit of "expansion chamber" issue (such as on a 2-stroke motorcycle), but nothing to get overly worried about.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Fisher, IL
Anyone know if there are cheap mandrel benders that will work for a small job like this and not kink the thin walled exhaust pipe? I'd say I'd want to keep it under $300...
I think i'd be better off buying a small personal bender instead of getting pre-bent pipe and cutting what i need.
Might come in handy for future exhaust needs too...
Just didn't know if anyone knew of any okay ones that fit the bill?
Few at NorthernTool I see. Not sure the +'s and -'s of the different types though.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7693_200437693
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page
I think i'd be better off buying a small personal bender instead of getting pre-bent pipe and cutting what i need.
Might come in handy for future exhaust needs too...
Just didn't know if anyone knew of any okay ones that fit the bill?
Few at NorthernTool I see. Not sure the +'s and -'s of the different types though.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7693_200437693
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; May 15, 2012 at 10:31 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 38
From: Cedar,BC
Your only option is to buy the flanges and a pile of pre-bent U-bends.Check out your local drag racing/hot rod/Harley group,there is usually someone who builds custom headers for these guys,this project would be relatively simple for someone with that experience.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,541
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From: Chicago
You will never find an exhaust shop that does this kind of work,and the bender you will need will cost thousands of dollars!Your only option is to buy the flanges and a pile of pre-bent U-bends.Check out your local drag racing/hot rod/Harley group,there is usually someone who builds custom headers for these guys,this project would be relatively simple for someone with that experience.
Your only option is to buy the flanges and a pile of pre-bent U-bends.Check out your local drag racing/hot rod/Harley group,there is usually someone who builds custom headers for these guys,this project would be relatively simple for someone with that experience.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,515
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From: Fisher, IL
Yup, buy a box of bends and get ready to do a lot of cutting, grinding, test fitting - rinse, repeate. It's a tedious job to say the least. I also noticed a few members were welding the pipes to the flange around the outside of the primary pipe. Ideally the pipe should be welded to the flange on the inside only. Good luck with the project it looks like its coming along nicely!
Where should I look for buying a bunch of pre-bent tubes?
weld the inside then sand smooth again? What's wrong with welding around the outside?
Will a mig welder work and just be harder to adjust over a tig?
I've used flux core for most of my stuff so far but was thinking if i got a tank of gas it might help smooth out my welds a bunch...might even attempt to learn during this step...since that's what this car is supposed to be teaching me stuff.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,078
Likes: 7
From: DFW TX
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Where should I look for buying a bunch of pre-bent tubes?
weld the inside then sand smooth again? What's wrong with welding around the outside?
Will a mig welder work and just be harder to adjust over a tig?
I've used flux core for most of my stuff so far but was thinking if i got a tank of gas it might help smooth out my welds a bunch...might even attempt to learn during this step...since that's what this car is supposed to be teaching me stuff.
weld the inside then sand smooth again? What's wrong with welding around the outside?
Will a mig welder work and just be harder to adjust over a tig?
I've used flux core for most of my stuff so far but was thinking if i got a tank of gas it might help smooth out my welds a bunch...might even attempt to learn during this step...since that's what this car is supposed to be teaching me stuff.
