Muncie Rebuild help
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
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Muncie Rebuild help
So I decided to take on rebuilding my muncie on my own after talking to a few people on here. I started the rebuild tonight but quickly ran into an issue. I am running the supercase with the 1" countershaft pin. How do you go about getting the countershaft pin in there? I have it through the gears and everything and it's on the inside of the front case. I know it's supposed to be a tight fit but I felt like I was going to damage the case if I hit it with a hammer (dead blow) anymore.
Also the keys for the clutch gear to syncro rings how and when are they supposed to be installed on the 2nd gear? I am going to take it to a shop tomorrow to have the 2nd gear clutch gear setup pressed onto the shaft and it said to make sure the keys are present.
One more the front bearing gets installed from front to back correct? so the lip is on the outside front of the case and the bearing retainer holds it in.
Anymore advice would be great. I got the needle bearing put into the countershaft and the input bearings in.
Update: I saw on autogears web site where they said to use an arbor press to install the countershaft. I will have the same place that does the #2 gear setup do the countershaft
Also the keys for the clutch gear to syncro rings how and when are they supposed to be installed on the 2nd gear? I am going to take it to a shop tomorrow to have the 2nd gear clutch gear setup pressed onto the shaft and it said to make sure the keys are present.
One more the front bearing gets installed from front to back correct? so the lip is on the outside front of the case and the bearing retainer holds it in.
Anymore advice would be great. I got the needle bearing put into the countershaft and the input bearings in.
Update: I saw on autogears web site where they said to use an arbor press to install the countershaft. I will have the same place that does the #2 gear setup do the countershaft
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
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You'll need a press to get the countershaft in the front case. I clean the hole with solvent and coat with RTV. No need if your supercase has the rubber plug.
You'll need to put the second gear on, then the 1-2 synchronizer assembly. You can put the keys in the hub, then slip the slider over it to hold the keys in place.
Then put the 2nd gear syncro in place and slide hub/slider (pre assembled) on the shaft. Be sure to line up the notches in the brass syncro with the hub/slider keys. Also be sure the slider is oriented correctly, taper toward rear.
Now press on the 1st gear sleeve.
Front bearing with snapring groove is toward the front of the case. The front bearing is held in place by the retainer.
You'll need to put the second gear on, then the 1-2 synchronizer assembly. You can put the keys in the hub, then slip the slider over it to hold the keys in place.
Then put the 2nd gear syncro in place and slide hub/slider (pre assembled) on the shaft. Be sure to line up the notches in the brass syncro with the hub/slider keys. Also be sure the slider is oriented correctly, taper toward rear.
Now press on the 1st gear sleeve.
Front bearing with snapring groove is toward the front of the case. The front bearing is held in place by the retainer.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Ok I need advice again. I went to put the speedo gear on but didn't heat it up enough and it stopped right after it got onto the area it was supposed to go. I can't move it either direction what should I do?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
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I'm guessing you removed it by tapping with a hammer. If it's jammed now, you have some deris in there binding it up. Try removing it again and cleaning. You might try taking a torch to it while on the shaft.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
You should be able to get it of/on with a hammer. Use a brass drift to prevent damage to the gear or shaft.
And I hope you realize it has to be put at a specific distance from the end of the shaft. It should be listed in the manual.
And I hope you realize it has to be put at a specific distance from the end of the shaft. It should be listed in the manual.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
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From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Let's summarize. You don't know what you're doing. And even when you get detailed info from a CF member, you don't have the proper tools to carry out the instructions. You should have let the trans shop complete the assembly. Perhaps they'll do that for free too.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
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Correct or more so just the fact I've never done it before. I can turn wrenches and follow manuals.
Correct again however I am asking because possibly someone knows a way to do it without a press.
If I did that how would I be able to learn how to do it? Also I didn't ask them to do it for free I was more than willing to pay but they didn't want my money
Oh and thank you everyone for the advice so far.
And even when you get detailed info from a CF member, you don't have the proper tools to carry out the instructions.
You should have let the trans shop complete the assembly. Perhaps they'll do that for free too.
Oh and thank you everyone for the advice so far.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
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From: Fremont CA
WARNING! Countershaft is designed to be installed/removed from rear of main case only! If you measure countershaft diameters, there is a big and small end, small to the front! Difference in diameter isn't very much but It's there. Load inside of countergear with grease, pack in needle bearings and spacers in correct order, install thrust washers into main case on dab of grease to retain them (making sure your tabs are properly bent 90degrees) lube faces of thrust washers, install countergear then HOPEFULLY install countershaft without knocking any needle bearings out of place (I use a smaller diameter "dummy shaft" for this difficult job.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
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No kidding on all those damn needle bearings, 112 I think.
Anyway, I think all the Muncie countershafts have have a notch out of the back side that has to be indexed to clear the midplate. So I dont think you could assemble with it backwards without protruding out the front.
Anyway, I think all the Muncie countershafts have have a notch out of the back side that has to be indexed to clear the midplate. So I dont think you could assemble with it backwards without protruding out the front.
WARNING! Countershaft is designed to be installed/removed from rear of main case only! If you measure countershaft diameters, there is a big and small end, small to the front! Difference in diameter isn't very much but It's there. Load inside of countergear with grease, pack in needle bearings and spacers in correct order, install thrust washers into main case on dab of grease to retain them (making sure your tabs are properly bent 90degrees) lube faces of thrust washers, install countergear then HOPEFULLY install countershaft without knocking any needle bearings out of place (I use a smaller diameter "dummy shaft" for this difficult job.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
To disengage the reverse lever/fork from the gear, you must remove a roll pin that goes throught the reverse lever shaft boss on the outside of the case. Then pull the lever outward. This pulls the fork off the reverse gear so the rear case can be removed.
To install, put the reverse gear fork in the rear case. Pull out on the shaft until the fork bottoms out on the inside of the case and put the reverse fork in the engaged position. Slide on the rear case, push the reverse gear fork in and it will engage the gear. You will feel a detent where the case roll pin hole lines up with a slot around the reverse gear fork shaft. Put in the roll pin and it will prevent the shaft from moving in or out.
Hope that makes sense.
To install, put the reverse gear fork in the rear case. Pull out on the shaft until the fork bottoms out on the inside of the case and put the reverse fork in the engaged position. Slide on the rear case, push the reverse gear fork in and it will engage the gear. You will feel a detent where the case roll pin hole lines up with a slot around the reverse gear fork shaft. Put in the roll pin and it will prevent the shaft from moving in or out.
Hope that makes sense.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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Yeah my reverse gear has the flange towards the rear. so I assume there are not washers or anything for the fork it's simply held in by the gear? and the arm is held in by the taper pin
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
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