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New Composite Leaf or Wait?

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Old May 12, 2012 | 12:42 AM
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Default New Composite Leaf or Wait?

I have a 1975, it is currently undergoing restoration by me for a new wiring harness and radiator, the suspension is in bad shape but when I took it off the road in fall 2009, the suspension was acceptable, I'd never race/autocross it, but for driving to work it was ok.

I've long been told that the composite leaf spring is the way to go for the replacement on my 1975 small block. So I think that is one of the next upgrades once I have her back on the road.

I am ordering parts this weekend and am debating buying the spring now vs waiting unti the next round of upgrades. The current project is a new radiator and all new wiring, almost complete but a few things needed (radiator etc).

The question is this, given that the rest of the suspension is 37 years old, all bushings are obviously rotted, and any other components are likely not 'to spec', will replacing the rear leaf spring with a composite (or even a new small block steel spring) without adjusting or replacing the other probably bad/dicey components make the car undriveable.

Currently the ride/handling is obviously not race-car, but is 'acceptable' for a driver, which is all she'll be used as for now.

Edited for spelling.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 06:12 AM
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If you have the money for a composite rear spring, why not take half that money and get a front end rebuild kit? They are fairly cheap and pretty easy to put in. Won't take you but another weekend to get the front rebuilt. I did mine a few years ago. Big difference once it was done.
If you decide to do the rear, it won't make it undriveable but you will want to replace the front fairly quickly the way you describe it.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 07:51 AM
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If your radiator is out, now may be the time to replace the front suspention wear parts. There will be more room to work. Just be careful you don't fall into the "while I'm this far" syndrome.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 08:34 AM
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Default rear spring

If you decide to replace the rear spring wait until your 75 is sitting on the new spring installation before doing the torque of the of the 4 bolts that secure the spring to the rear end.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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Bushings/tie rods/balljoints/shocks/trailing arms/strut rods/alignment first. Consder that the "baseline tune-up" for your suspension. You can do all that (if you do the labor) for about what a spring kit costs. Then if you feel the need the car will be ready to accept that new spring, and you;ll be sure that money was spent to best effect.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Indiancreek
If your radiator is out, now may be the time to replace the front suspention wear parts. There will be more room to work. Just be careful you don't fall into the "while I'm this far" syndrome.
While I'm this far syndrome has already taken me since Sept 2009 with 0 miles under her own power. The hope was to have her back on the road by mid-summer as an alternate driver, there is still time left.

I've never done any work with the suspension, so I think it will end up taking me more than a weekend to complete, radiator out or not, and I'm not working in a garage, so weather is always a factor.

Thanks for the feedback!
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Old May 12, 2012 | 11:22 PM
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"all bushings are obviously rotted" is the key here. A new spring might correct your ride height, but do nothing for deficiencies in the rest of the suspension.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by paragonspirit
While I'm this far syndrome has already taken me since Sept 2009 with 0 miles under her own power. The hope was to have her back on the road by mid-summer as an alternate driver, there is still time left.

I've never done any work with the suspension, so I think it will end up taking me more than a weekend to complete, radiator out or not, and I'm not working in a garage, so weather is always a factor.

Thanks for the feedback!
Put penetrating oil on all of the suspension bolts that you will be playing with, a good time in advance. More than once.
And don't even think about a 3/8 drive ratchet set. Use a 1/2", at least. Invest in a nice long breaker bar, as well. An air wrench could be a real knuckle saver..
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