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Heater Core Bypass - one plug better than another???
Had the antifreeze leaking out the heat duct in the cabin. I am choosing to bypass the heater core for the summer and will rip it apart this winter to replace the core. So, for the summer, what is a better plug for the pump and manifold? The first ones I found had the square top as shown in the picture. When I went back to the store, I found the allen key plug also. These are both made by the generic "HELP" line of products at Advanced Auto. Is one better to use than another, especially knowing it needs to come apart in 8 months.
Funny, I have about 30 miles on this car so far this year, and the winter project list is already starting!
Unless your thermostat has bypass holes drilled into it, I would not plug the holes. Instead, I would run a short hose from the side of the water pump to the intake manifold creating a loop.
never thought about a brass plug but it makes a lot of sense. The plug in the manifold is weeping slightly and it concerns me to tighten it especially in an original part.
Remember those are NPT threads. NPT is how you say National Pipe Taper. Tapered threads. In aluminum, you can keep wrenching until the crack starts. And just keep on going.
Unless your thermostat has bypass holes drilled into it, I would not plug the holes. Instead, I would run a short hose from the side of the water pump to the intake manifold creating a loop.
SBC have the bypass in the oem pump, so not to worry.
EXACTLY RIGHT!!! NEVER USE STEEL PLUGS/FITTINGS IN AN ALUMINUM MANIFOLD!!!!
Sorry for the caps, but I can't emphasize that enough. Steel rusts and once it rusts, forgetabout getting it out. Just look at all the aluminum manifolds on E-Bay with rusted on steel fittings. Use brass with a thread sealer and you won't have any problems at all.
Also, if you use teflon tape, make sure you don't get any of the tape INSIDE the water passages. That crap will play hell with the cooling system (or fuel system) if it gets inside of it.
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