Lets talk about electric fan control
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
So far I've found Spal no longer makes the fan controller, and Delta Current emailed saying they're three weeks out for delivery...Any other options?
I want to drive the beast a little this year,..even if I have to resort to a toggle switch and relay......
I want to drive the beast a little this year,..even if I have to resort to a toggle switch and relay......
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
I ended up ordering the DCC FK-55 ,...Brian said three weeks,...so I might get a head start routing the fan wiring.
I'm thinking of hiding the controller under the storage compartment behind the passanger seat, and routing wires to the fan/sender. That way it's a short hop to the battery for the controller, and all the electronics stays high and dry.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Which controller did you get? I only have one fan, pulls 22 amps, so the smaller controller would work I imagine.
I like the idea of speed control because it gradually comes on, as the temps rise. The relay controls are all or nothing,...so you sit at a stop light watching the temps climb to super hot,...then the fan kicks in.
I like the idea of speed control because it gradually comes on, as the temps rise. The relay controls are all or nothing,...so you sit at a stop light watching the temps climb to super hot,...then the fan kicks in.
Last edited by hugie82; May 18, 2012 at 05:30 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
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From: Orange Park Florida
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
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From: Peoria Az
Eugene I ran the DCC fan controller (PWM type) on my daily driven 05 Dodge PU until I sold it in '11. Only had to replace the stock battery once in 09. And in Phoenix its not uncommon to replace a battery after 4 years due to the heat.
The truck was a round town, stop & go, short hopp daily driver.
Also the Viper powered dodge trucks use PWM to actuate the solenoid that operated the hydraulically driven fan.
I dont think your statement of PWM killing batteries has any merit
The truck was a round town, stop & go, short hopp daily driver.
Also the Viper powered dodge trucks use PWM to actuate the solenoid that operated the hydraulically driven fan.
I dont think your statement of PWM killing batteries has any merit
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
The PWM lets the semiconductor in the controller buffer the in rush current the fan motor would have on start, and limit the current it draws based on actual thermal requirements,...Translation. It doesn't have to run full blast to keep the temperature constant in the radiator. Fan runs quiter most of the time, using less power than otherwise would be used. The temps are kept in check closer to the set point by running the fan slower, and prior to the set point, building speed as needed,so the need for a fan running at full speed is reduced....
The relay version waits till the set point, and runs full speed ahead to try and prevent the over heated radiator from boiling over.
I suppose that if the cooling system is up to it,...either would work just fine.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Love to see some install pics.
I ended up ordering the DCC FK-55 ,...Brian said three weeks,...so I might get a head start routing the fan wiring.
I'm thinking of hiding the controller under the storage compartment behind the passanger seat, and routing wires to the fan/sender. That way it's a short hop to the battery for the controller, and all the electronics stays high and dry.
I ended up ordering the DCC FK-55 ,...Brian said three weeks,...so I might get a head start routing the fan wiring.
I'm thinking of hiding the controller under the storage compartment behind the passanger seat, and routing wires to the fan/sender. That way it's a short hop to the battery for the controller, and all the electronics stays high and dry.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
you know about upgrading your alternator...also. My CS130 in my C4 handled everything fine cause it was an electric setup to begin with, and I was carefull with my wire sizes and amp loads. (BTW cfm on the fan is critical also , I wound up with a 3600cfm on my C4 and when I got the C3 set up I went with the same fan. These guys running the MKv111 fans get bout 3000cfm on low speed and close to 4000cfm on high) if I remember right , its an 18" fan also. My C3 charging system was marginal at best. You may not see it till you have the fan on, the A/C on , and stereo on at the same time, or you might see it with just the fan. whatever system you go with , if you're going to put it in the back, you're going to need to increase the wire sizes.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
I could not resist replying, and please do not take affense by it. Relay control is to PWM control like a tin can and string is to high speed internet. You can communicate with a string and can,..yes,..but TCP/IP is better.
The PWM lets the semiconductor in the controller buffer the in rush current the fan motor would have on start, and limit the current it draws based on actual thermal requirements,...Translation. It doesn't have to run full blast to keep the temperature constant in the radiator. Fan runs quiter most of the time, using less power than otherwise would be used. The temps are kept in check closer to the set point by running the fan slower, and prior to the set point, building speed as needed,so the need for a fan running at full speed is reduced....
The relay version waits till the set point, and runs full speed ahead to try and prevent the over heated radiator from boiling over.
I suppose that if the cooling system is up to it,...either would work just fine.
The PWM lets the semiconductor in the controller buffer the in rush current the fan motor would have on start, and limit the current it draws based on actual thermal requirements,...Translation. It doesn't have to run full blast to keep the temperature constant in the radiator. Fan runs quiter most of the time, using less power than otherwise would be used. The temps are kept in check closer to the set point by running the fan slower, and prior to the set point, building speed as needed,so the need for a fan running at full speed is reduced....
The relay version waits till the set point, and runs full speed ahead to try and prevent the over heated radiator from boiling over.
I suppose that if the cooling system is up to it,...either would work just fine.
All of these different ways of turning the fan on work, the makers of the VSC's say the temp.sw. and relay are old tech, the old tech. guys say the VSC's are wasted tech. I spent 3 monthe researching and trying different systems on my C4. it's just a personal choice. one last bit of advice, dont just read the testimonials, read the complaint posts also and not just on this site, make your own decision.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,835
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From: Grand Junction Colorado
What year Mark VIII fans are you guys using and where are you getting them? The 1200 cfm fan that came with my American radiator is not doing the job for me at all.I'm using a Mr Gasket adjustable fan control that works great.22.00 at Napa.But that little 16 " isn't doing it.Thanx.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Orange Park Florida
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
What year Mark VIII fans are you guys using and where are you getting them? The 1200 cfm fan that came with my American radiator is not doing the job for me at all.I'm using a Mr Gasket adjustable fan control that works great.22.00 at Napa.But that little 16 " isn't doing it.Thanx.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Eugene I ran the DCC fan controller (PWM type) on my daily driven 05 Dodge PU until I sold it in '11. Only had to replace the stock battery once in 09. And in Phoenix its not uncommon to replace a battery after 4 years due to the heat.
The truck was a round town, stop & go, short hopp daily driver.
Also the Viper powered dodge trucks use PWM to actuate the solenoid that operated the hydraulically driven fan.
I dont think your statement of PWM killing batteries has any merit
The truck was a round town, stop & go, short hopp daily driver.
Also the Viper powered dodge trucks use PWM to actuate the solenoid that operated the hydraulically driven fan.
I dont think your statement of PWM killing batteries has any merit
The two vehicles you running it on above, I know nothing of the wiring on them....so NO comment, the case in point concerns the C3, and the typical C3 has a 8-10 ga wire going to the starter battery terminal from the alt output stud....BUT, here is the critical thing....in that wiring is a ~12 ga fusible link, done to keep the car from burning, should something Cat *** trophic happen, from failures to wrecks....the battery circuit opens to the car, so the damn battery don't blow up....much less fry the heavy battery cables....
now here is the rub....and I have proven it on my '72 vette....run a heavy fan off the battery directly, and watch the voltage, it goes from 14.8 to 13.3 when properly running, depending on the charge the battery needs....but if the charging voltage is dropped something like 1.5+ volts at the battery, the car never knows, and so the battery never sees full recharge....how long you can leave it that way is anyone's guess.....DCC /Brian insisted on running another jumper from alt stud to the battery, I forget the gauge of wire, I suggested a fuse/breaker, for it, at minimum.....he objected, I quit the thread....
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Oh GOD, here we go again, shades of years ago....
The two vehicles you running it on above, I know nothing of the wiring on them....so NO comment, the case in point concerns the C3, and the typical C3 has a 8-10 ga wire going to the starter battery terminal from the alt output stud....BUT, here is the critical thing....in that wiring is a ~12 ga fusible link, done to keep the car from burning, should something Cat *** trophic happen, from failures to wrecks....the battery circuit opens to the car, so the damn battery don't blow up....much less fry the heavy battery cables....
now here is the rub....and I have proven it on my '72 vette....run a heavy fan off the battery directly, and watch the voltage, it goes from 14.8 to 13.3 when properly running, depending on the charge the battery needs....but if the charging voltage is dropped something like 1.5+ volts at the battery, the car never knows, and so the battery never sees full recharge....how long you can leave it that way is anyone's guess.....DCC /Brian insisted on running another jumper from alt stud to the battery, I forget the gauge of wire, I suggested a fuse/breaker, for it, at minimum.....he objected, I quit the thread....
The two vehicles you running it on above, I know nothing of the wiring on them....so NO comment, the case in point concerns the C3, and the typical C3 has a 8-10 ga wire going to the starter battery terminal from the alt output stud....BUT, here is the critical thing....in that wiring is a ~12 ga fusible link, done to keep the car from burning, should something Cat *** trophic happen, from failures to wrecks....the battery circuit opens to the car, so the damn battery don't blow up....much less fry the heavy battery cables....
now here is the rub....and I have proven it on my '72 vette....run a heavy fan off the battery directly, and watch the voltage, it goes from 14.8 to 13.3 when properly running, depending on the charge the battery needs....but if the charging voltage is dropped something like 1.5+ volts at the battery, the car never knows, and so the battery never sees full recharge....how long you can leave it that way is anyone's guess.....DCC /Brian insisted on running another jumper from alt stud to the battery, I forget the gauge of wire, I suggested a fuse/breaker, for it, at minimum.....he objected, I quit the thread....
7th Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Midland MI
Lets not make things any more complicated than they need to be. I run a 180 t-stat, and run a 185 on 170 off temp switch mounted in the intake (jegs or summit). I have the switch ran thru a relay. It is only hot in run. My temps have NEVER exceeded 200 even in sitting in line in stop n go traffic. The fan cycles what I would consider normally and keeps the temp right there at the 180 mark. No hassles no problems. I have a second relay tied in for the a/c. I have ran this setup on several cars with no issues.
BTW- The Lincoln fan is excellent for moving lots of air (prior project).
Get the brass adaptor and install your switch.
BTW- The Lincoln fan is excellent for moving lots of air (prior project).
Get the brass adaptor and install your switch.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Peabody Ma.
FWIW....I tried the PWM controller from Spal, then the DC Control, and went to relays
The Spal was not user friendly
The DCC worked fine for what it was, however the temp probe failed at the point where it attaches to the controller it self! The type of connector they used for the probe is crap!
The relays work as intended!
The Spal was not user friendly
The DCC worked fine for what it was, however the temp probe failed at the point where it attaches to the controller it self! The type of connector they used for the probe is crap!
The relays work as intended!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
FWIW....I tried the PWM controller from Spal, then the DC Control, and went to relays
The Spal was not user friendly
The DCC worked fine for what it was, however the temp probe failed at the point where it attaches to the controller it self! The type of connector they used for the probe is crap!
The relays work as intended!
The Spal was not user friendly
The DCC worked fine for what it was, however the temp probe failed at the point where it attaches to the controller it self! The type of connector they used for the probe is crap!
The relays work as intended!