When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's time to replace the clutch in my 69 435 car.....again. I'm open to suggestions as to what to get. I've gone through the search and still can't decide. first and most important requirement- it must be a street driveable clutch. Right now, I have a McLeod street twin in the car. Contrary to what they told me, I do not consider this a street clutch. Way too much chatter on takeoff. Feels almost like the 5.5" triple plate clutches we use in our race cars. I would like to have the same feel as the original clutch. I'm leaning towards the Spec stage 1 (possibly their stage 2) clutch with a steel flywheel.
I'm also using a Lakewood scattershield. I would also need which fork stud goes with the clutch. Is there a specific measurement to use to determine which stud to use based on which clutch is installed?
if you do not race it or abuse it a centerforce 2 is the best cluch for drivability good pedel they just do not like burnout contest to well they release smother than most there smooth and offers great drivability
if you do not race it or abuse it a centerforce 2 is the best cluch for drivability good pedel they just do not like burnout contest to well they release smother than most there smooth and offers great drivability
I've run a Centerforce Dual Friction 10.5" clutch in my 72 LT-1 at autocross and drag racing events (slicks mounted and 3000RPM launches) for more than 14K miles. Is that abuse? I think so, the main problem people have with Ceneterforce clutches is keeping proper pedal free-play during the first 1500-3000 mile break-in period, you MUST keep on top of your free-play or as the disc wears and the pressure plate spring moves rearward, you can experience high RPM unloading of the clutch due to the Centerforce counterweights coming into contact with the throw-out bearing.
You 435HP Vette takes an 11inch pressure plate (unless you have a MA-6 dual disc equipped Vette, and if you do, I would have the original assembly rebuilt.) I would also carefully look at the flywheel and make darn sure it is a Nodular Iron one or consider a replacement high performance flywheel during the clutch replacement.
I don't have a MA6 clutch. The flywheel that is in it now is the one for the McLeod twin disc. 1500 miles to me is about 10 years of driving. Wish I could buy the correct 1969 GM clutch, but they are long discontinued.
hmmm keep that in mind only had 2 complaints on center force one in a 70 442 and a 85 mustang both are run hard the stang yould slip at burnout contest in 2nd on spray the 442 would never bark 3rd or 4th after the centerforce started slipping in 4th at wot put many more in classic cars with out any complaints
If the flywheel is good, I would have the Street Twin rebuilt. I have just had this done. I had the same problem with my Mcleod as you. Sent it off to Tim Hyatt for rebuild. He told me the problem with the stock Street Twin discs is not enough Marcel. Ordered a couple of custom discs and the clutch is perfect. It totally changed/softened up the engagement. Great guy to deal with and knows his stuff. Don't have the number handy but it is Hyatt Racing Service.
Perhaps all you need to do is have the McLeod flywheel resurfaced.
Funny, I have the 64003-00-04 street twin behind my SBC and its worked great for ~2500 miles...not a hint of chatter ever. But I babied it for the first 500 miles like the instructions recommend.
I have the RAM Powergrip XD behind my T56 and really like it. Light, smooth engagement and holds well. I have not tried it with sticky tires though, it spins through 3rd gear right now.