Vintage Air???
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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From: statesville nc
Vintage Air???
I just took ALL of my AC components out of my 73. The engine compartment is empty down to the fire wall. What is the VIR thing people write about?
For $1300 I can get a complete Vintage Air system. It is smaller, modern, and adapts to the thumb wheel controls. It would cost more than that to replace the major components of the old.
Should I go that way?
Sam
For $1300 I can get a complete Vintage Air system. It is smaller, modern, and adapts to the thumb wheel controls. It would cost more than that to replace the major components of the old.
Should I go that way?
Sam
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 945
Likes: 10
From: Winston Salem NC
The VIR should be near the fender vent, or to the right of the AC box. There should be a line going from it to the ac box.
I chose to go with the pro6ten compressor, a parallel flow condenser and some new seals. I like my system.
Lots of guys go with Vintage Air though. I have not heard complaints about that system.
I chose to go with the pro6ten compressor, a parallel flow condenser and some new seals. I like my system.
Lots of guys go with Vintage Air though. I have not heard complaints about that system.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
SJ--
I am/was in your same position on my '73... Spend nearly as much to refurb the old '73 AC or upgrade to a newer model... I went with the Evap kit from Vintage Air... Got my Sanden Compressor with my March Serpentine package... Still need to get dryer, parallel flow condenser and AC lines... Just felt for the money, I would prefer the newer generation AC setup... One drawback is there is not a "fresh air" feature with the Vintage Air... I've got a convertible, so when I need fresh air, I'll roll down the windows, or drop the top...
My test fitting for the Vintage Air system started on Page 7 of my thread about half way down the page... Please feel free to check it out...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-resto-7.html
Rogman
I am/was in your same position on my '73... Spend nearly as much to refurb the old '73 AC or upgrade to a newer model... I went with the Evap kit from Vintage Air... Got my Sanden Compressor with my March Serpentine package... Still need to get dryer, parallel flow condenser and AC lines... Just felt for the money, I would prefer the newer generation AC setup... One drawback is there is not a "fresh air" feature with the Vintage Air... I've got a convertible, so when I need fresh air, I'll roll down the windows, or drop the top...
My test fitting for the Vintage Air system started on Page 7 of my thread about half way down the page... Please feel free to check it out...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-resto-7.html
Rogman
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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From: statesville nc
Rogman,
I just finished reading your LOOOOOOOONG thread on your build. It is a great reference. It shamed me into taking off more parts. I got the Vintage Air idea from you.
Do you have a rear sway bar? I'd like to see a picture of the install. I'm trying to figure out my after market sway bar.
Good luck on your PCS. If you are half as diligent at work as at home, I can see your career going great. ( I'm a retired RF-4 WSO)
Sam
I just finished reading your LOOOOOOOONG thread on your build. It is a great reference. It shamed me into taking off more parts. I got the Vintage Air idea from you.
Do you have a rear sway bar? I'd like to see a picture of the install. I'm trying to figure out my after market sway bar.
Good luck on your PCS. If you are half as diligent at work as at home, I can see your career going great. ( I'm a retired RF-4 WSO)
Sam
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Rogman,
I just finished reading your LOOOOOOOONG thread on your build. It is a great reference. It shamed me into taking off more parts. I got the Vintage Air idea from you.
Do you have a rear sway bar? I'd like to see a picture of the install. I'm trying to figure out my after market sway bar.
Good luck on your PCS. If you are half as diligent at work as at home, I can see your career going great. ( I'm a retired RF-4 WSO)
Sam
I just finished reading your LOOOOOOOONG thread on your build. It is a great reference. It shamed me into taking off more parts. I got the Vintage Air idea from you.
Do you have a rear sway bar? I'd like to see a picture of the install. I'm trying to figure out my after market sway bar.
Good luck on your PCS. If you are half as diligent at work as at home, I can see your career going great. ( I'm a retired RF-4 WSO)
Sam
I do have a rear sway bar... It was a direct bolt to the frame and trailing arm... Here are a couple of shots...
Let me know if you need a different angle...
Rogman
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,681
Likes: 200
From: Waterford Mi
73 was the first year for the VIR system. About 15 years ago I replaced my system with factory replacements. At the time the price of R12 was just starting to go up thanks to our government. They only issue I ever had with the system had to do with the VIR valve. It cost more to replace the R12 and VIR valve then anything else.
Last year the compressor went out on me and I was told I would need to change the condenser because it would be full of crap from the compressor. I read about the change over to a new system here on CF. I went with a Nostalgic Air system. I changed out everything except the evaporator. I replaced the VIR with a VIR Eliminator from Zip Corvette parts. I had thought about replacing the evap with a newer one instead. I was told the one for 79 would fit.
Anyway, long story short, the new system works well and did not cost as much as replacing the compressor, condenser, and R12 would have.
My install page
Last year the compressor went out on me and I was told I would need to change the condenser because it would be full of crap from the compressor. I read about the change over to a new system here on CF. I went with a Nostalgic Air system. I changed out everything except the evaporator. I replaced the VIR with a VIR Eliminator from Zip Corvette parts. I had thought about replacing the evap with a newer one instead. I was told the one for 79 would fit.
Anyway, long story short, the new system works well and did not cost as much as replacing the compressor, condenser, and R12 would have.
My install page
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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From: statesville nc
Rogman,
If you have a picture of where the rubber bushing bolts onto the frame, it would help me a bunch. The generic instructions say "use exiting holes", I ain't got no "exiting holes". So the question becomes where to drill.
How do I determine the attach point? With the car off the ground and it gutted, it is hard to jack up the TA on the spring to a normal position. At what angle should the TA be to then set the bushing attach point?
Thanks redwingvette I am reading your AC install.
If you have a picture of where the rubber bushing bolts onto the frame, it would help me a bunch. The generic instructions say "use exiting holes", I ain't got no "exiting holes". So the question becomes where to drill.
How do I determine the attach point? With the car off the ground and it gutted, it is hard to jack up the TA on the spring to a normal position. At what angle should the TA be to then set the bushing attach point?
Thanks redwingvette I am reading your AC install.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Rogman,
If you have a picture of where the rubber bushing bolts onto the frame, it would help me a bunch. The generic instructions say "use exiting holes", I ain't got no "exiting holes". So the question becomes where to drill.
How do I determine the attach point? With the car off the ground and it gutted, it is hard to jack up the TA on the spring to a normal position. At what angle should the TA be to then set the bushing attach point?
Thanks redwingvette I am reading your AC install.
If you have a picture of where the rubber bushing bolts onto the frame, it would help me a bunch. The generic instructions say "use exiting holes", I ain't got no "exiting holes". So the question becomes where to drill.
How do I determine the attach point? With the car off the ground and it gutted, it is hard to jack up the TA on the spring to a normal position. At what angle should the TA be to then set the bushing attach point?
Thanks redwingvette I am reading your AC install.
I had to wait for the weight of the car to lower the frame/TA angles beforre I could attach the bushings on the TAs...
Rogman
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Keep it simple.... Go with Vintage Air... It blows harder, its colder, it frees up a bunch of room in the engine compartment. You also dont get the normal corvette **** pit heat that seaps into the factory evaporator box/system etc... Lastly the compressor doesnt suck up near as much power to run..
After spending atleast $1500 on my factory system trying to keep it working right, I finally went to VA when I did my engine swap and my only regret is not doing it sooner and not blowing all that money on the stock system...
After spending atleast $1500 on my factory system trying to keep it working right, I finally went to VA when I did my engine swap and my only regret is not doing it sooner and not blowing all that money on the stock system...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 56
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From: statesville nc
Thanx, I guess that I was hoping some one would say that. It looked like the new stuff would work better.
So I took out all the old box, it does the worse for wear.
Thanx again
Sam
So I took out all the old box, it does the worse for wear.
Thanx again
Sam
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Sam--
Here are some pictures of my rear sway mounts... Looks like the front threaded insert is about 1" to 1.5" behind the frame cross-member... Second threaded insert is 2" behind that... My frame already had these, but I did need to clean the threads up a little after collecting dust, dirt and grime for 39+ years...
Rogman
Here are some pictures of my rear sway mounts... Looks like the front threaded insert is about 1" to 1.5" behind the frame cross-member... Second threaded insert is 2" behind that... My frame already had these, but I did need to clean the threads up a little after collecting dust, dirt and grime for 39+ years...
Rogman
