These are aftermarkets.

not wheel vintiques (which I used before no issues)


Opinions on this?
How do originals look/fit the nut in comparison?

These never seem to be real tight when Im taking them off.....they are when I put them on.

I hope.....these arent unsafe junk wheel guy denies ever selling them to me today. Course I pay cash and dont write off anything so I didnt save the reciept. 1 was so out of round I had to toss it (chasing vib. issues)
Not one of the other 3 were perfect...but just balanceable.

Ugh.







I dont have it sitting perfectly straight but you get the idea.

Will these be ok or ?

 

If it were mine , I'd use steel lug nuts, that one you have pictured appears to a later year used on stock aluminum rims. your rim shouldn't be marking it up that way.I've had wheels come of and pass me going down the road

 

Those were what he gave me with the wheels.
Where can I get stock type? Same place carry them youd think or?

was just worried that countersink wasnt large enough.
Are the stockers different from these? Its been a long time.


Shoulda known better than to fall for a "great deal" but at the time I needed wheels and was
down on coin. Cant expect much for $45 ea. Made in China of course.

Like to use them for awhile if I can though til money for some better ones..or draglites falls into my lap

 

I wouldnt go back to the same place if he's claiming not to have sold them, any tire shop, even pepboys, on line, even fleabay. I just did a search for 'steel wheel lug nuts' and bout a million popped up, hope this helps.

 

Lug nuts or the lug nut seats in the wheel?

I have a number of OEM 15 x 8" wheels. The original lug nuts do not
have the shoulder shown on the ones in your photo. Reply to let
me know if you need info/photos of the seats.

RockAuto shows 9/16" zinc-plated lug nut choices from Dorman
(611814), Raybestos (1950N), Bendix (142038), Wagner (BD61285)
& ect. You ought to be able to locate these locally, they'll be
inexpensive.

Courtesy of RockAuto


.

 

Several of my wheels were purchased new from GM. Towards the end
I began checking them on receipt from the dealer and returned two
that I can recall. I suspect others I'd purchased earlier were less
than round from the outset ...

I do not know whether the wheels were leaving the plant that way
or being damaged at the distribution center/in transit. For the price
I was paying, I began to get a bit testy at being asked to take them
in the state they were in.

.

 

Slalom if you get a minute a pic of the mount flange would be great.
Yes those nuts appear different

Thought the originals had a little larger countersink area with more meat around them. Just want to be safe...
Was concerned with that little area contacting the wheel and them digging into the nut they are loosening up on me.


Really wanted some GM 15x8s...but these days they are so pricy.
Even used



Ill pick up some new lugs this morning.

 

I'd go to a local NAPA store & buy a new set. I think I paid $.50 each. Originals on my 70 are 7/16 - 20

 

Just got back from NAPA $30 later have a set

These are shorter not that it matters like the pic....but did notice these threads go to the very end of the nut whereas the ones from the tire guys didnt. Dont know if that makes any difference. Have a feeling there are sharp edges on the wheel cutting into the nuts.
What a pair of garbage rims suppose they will get me by for a while.

See how it goes.

 

A couple of OEM C3 15" x 8" wheels from a neglected ride. I have
7 or 8 of these wheels, all but two of which were purchased new.
.

 

Perfect just what I needed and thank you!!

These nuts sit farther down in the countersink like yours do...like they should.

that tiny wear bit on my first pics were all that was clamping the wheel down. Scary.

Id laugh if thats where all my mysterious driveline vibration was coming from. Find out tomorrow when I mount them up.

Half tempted to inquire about those 8s...have a line on some 6s for fronts too....just no extra $ right this second. DD ate it again this week

 

For cuisinartvette and everyone else that comes across this apparent
discrepancy. Both dimensions are correct, but I should have been
more clear.

RockAuto's 9/16" dimension describes the wheel nut length. As
70BBvert points out, the thread pitch is 7/16-20.

FWIW, the measurement across the flats of these lug nuts is 3/4".
(A 19mm socket is a metric equivalent.)

.

 

This

Looks like this Dorman 611-014

Courtesy Summit RacingIf that's what you have, then these have the appropriate 7/16-20
thread pitch and 60º conical seat. Perhaps there are wheels that
have a larger diameter seat?

Could you measure and post about the respective diameters of the cones.

.

 

How close a fit does the hub bore of the wheel have to the shoulder/flange
on the hub?

The OEM wheels shown above have a snug fit.

.

 

Let me snap a pic or two will post up in a few min

 

Slalom couldnt get back on teh forum last night for some reason


The ID of the hole is .5, where the conical part starts one is .6 (believe thats the "wrong" nut, new one .7. hard to tell as the worn one could be giving me a false reading. In any event the new ones fit much better as in your pic

 

Slalom what is the O.D. of your axles?
Mine are aftermarket noticed my wheels dont fit snug on them like yours do. This an issue?

 

Looks like I need a set of hubeccentric rings too so the studs arent taking the weight of the car. What a pain.

Lucky I didnt lose a wheel here.

 

Might be.

I expect you have seen the following:
Your axles are aftermarket, too? I had wondered what the
wheels were mounted on.

Using outside & inside spring calipers for measurement and
transferring the result to a dial caliper gave me the following
dimensions. (Carpenter's precision.)

• Wheel hub bore: 2.79" (2.792)
• Axle hub flange: 2.77" (2.775)

My hub flange dimension above is very likely under size. I
measured the exposed lip as it is shown in my photo above but
the lip appears to be somewhat chamfered/radiused. The hub
could well measure larger further in where the wheel seats.

Does the hub bore on your wheel have a measurement that is
close to the dimension on my OEM?

I am not a proponent of adapter rings. These are a kludge and
my vote is that they have no place on a vehicle likely to be
driven in earnest. Don't know what to suggest if the
aftermarket hubs are smaller than OEM hubs, but if the wheel
hub bores are the main problem, cut your losses and switch
to wheels that fit.

Way back in Post #2 oldalaskaman identified the proper application
for the lugs nuts you originally got from the vendor.

For wheels like these below, factory lug nuts had stainless caps for
appearances, but my vote is that they are functionally the same
as what you received. The larger cone provides more load bearing
surface for aluminum wheels.

Courtesy: Mid America


.

 

These are steel so Ill use the stock type they fit as yours do in the pic much better.

Wheel guy says steel wheels cant use the rings, no where to put them. Aluminum only. The lugs center these nicely on the stud.

Judging from the lugs in pic 1 being wrong and how they got chewed so quick Im damn lucky I didnt lose a wheel or break a stud. Sticky tires + 580hp not good.
My axle hub is identical to yours

My wheel ID is 3.1 these must be some universal fit with the Chevy bolt pattern.

Ill try them out if no vibrations Ill use em for awhile.
If so Ill have to cut losses and save up for those draglites I wanted.

He will not take them back. Typical
Damn



Thanks once again for the help