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Borgeson conversion, trouble bleeding

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Old May 29, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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Default Borgeson conversion, trouble bleeding

I've recently installed the borgeson manual to power steering kit on my 72, and it all went together pretty well. The only problem I'm having is bleeding air out (this is what I assume is my problem anyways). The steering gets a little jerky while turning the wheel, like there is air in the system still. Belt is good and tight, fluid is full. I put it up on stands and turned the wheel lock to lock a million times with the engine off. But it still has the symptoms of air in the system once I lower it and take it for a spin. I dont see any leaks at this point either. Bit confounded here, any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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do lock to lock with the engine running, pump has to be working to get the air out
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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Yea I tried that as well, engine running, engine off, no matter what I do im still getting jerky power steering. There is no squealing noise, just power steering that seems to come and go. Thats why I assume its air, but cant get it bled for the life of me.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Down at the ford garage years ago, they would hook up engine vacuum to the reservior and take it for a drive, then unhook the vacuum hose and put things back to normal. Worked like a charm, the vacuum would draw the air out of the steering fluid.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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Wait until our resident borgeson know-it-all from Oz wakes up and reads this thread. He'll get you fixed in no time at all. He's a borgy dealer.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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I agree with alaskaman. That should do the trick. With the standard p/s setup, the reservoir is the highest point in the system. The bubbles eventually make their way there and pop.

In your case, it may not be that easy. Running the engine and cranking the wheel side to side should do it.

I think you will get more advice soon that may do the trick.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 72bowtieguy
Yea I tried that as well, engine running, engine off, no matter what I do im still getting jerky power steering. There is no squealing noise, just power steering that seems to come and go. Thats why I assume its air, but cant get it bled for the life of me.
Have you confirmed that the fluid is foamy in the reservoir while running.
Could just be a pressure/flow issue.

Originally Posted by '75
Down at the ford garage years ago, they would hook up engine vacuum to the reservior and take it for a drive, then unhook the vacuum hose and put things back to normal. Worked like a charm, the vacuum would draw the air out of the steering fluid.
That's the best way for difficult to bleed systems, although a hand pump at 15" and left on as slowly turning the jacked up wheels with the engine off, is recommended.

For conventional methods, after the wheel has been turned with engine running, shut off engine for 30 minutes, the restart without moving the wheels, run for 5 minutes, then shutoff and wait, Repeat as many times as necessary. Sometimes turning the wheel and running the engine with aerated fluid can worsen the condition.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 07:12 PM
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Default Thank you for the kind words.

Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Wait until our resident borgeson know-it-all from Oz wakes up and reads this thread. He'll get you fixed in no time at all. He's a borgy dealer.
69 Chevy,

Thank you for the compliment but I'm afraid that you have overestimated my capabilities. To set the record straight, I am not and never have claimed to be an expert or "know-it-all." I am simply a Corvette enthusiast who, a few years ago, searched for a better steering system than what was fitted to my car at the factory.

I found such a system and fitted it to my '74 coupe in October 2010 and was quite impressed with the increased feel and response with the steering when I drove the car. I also own a 1974 convertible with factory power steering that I drove extensively in Washington, Oregon and California in June last year before shipping it to Australia. I have driven it a lot here and can easily tell the difference in the steering between both cars. And to that extent, I have diaried my observations here on the Forum.

I had no difficulty bleeding the system when I fitted it. I used GM's AC Delco PSF and let it sit overnight. The next day, I started it up and the steering performed as I hoped it would. If I had had a problem such as happened to the OP, then I would have contacted the seller/manufacturer of that product and asked for help from their technical department.

I suggest that this is what the OP should do and seek the guidance of the people who designed and built the system, who will surely guide him to a rapid solution.

I agree with the suggestions offered by OAM, JCL and noonie, but I would like 72bowtieguy to tell us what fluid he used and if the system is now working normally. Power steering systems require a recognised brand of Power Steering Fluid, such as the AC Delco one. Some people think that ATF is a good substitute, and it will work to a degree for a while, but in the long run, a loss of performance is often the result.

ATF is designed for automatic transmissions and has additives that are not needed in power steering systems and that may have deleterious effects when used in power steering systems in the long run.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
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Old May 31, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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John,
I can't see that anyone in this thread recommended using automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a power steering system. That would be silly.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
John,
I can't see that anyone in this thread recommended using automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a power steering system. That would be silly.
I used to do that prior to enlightenment. Probably a good idea to put it out there now and again...
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 02:25 AM
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Default I agree................

Originally Posted by paul 74
John,
I can't see that anyone in this thread recommended using automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a power steering system. That would be silly.
Paul,

I agree with you, but the OP didn't say what fluid he used and I was merely asking him to tell us so that we can at least eliminate that possibility. At the same time I gave a general warning for people like shark racer who used to use ATF until they found out that they shouldn't.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by aussiejohn
Paul,

I agree with you, but the OP didn't say what fluid he used and I was merely asking him to tell us so that we can at least eliminate that possibility. At the same time I gave a general warning for people like shark racer who used to use ATF until they found out that they shouldn't.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn


I do have to protect my name and say I was still in my teens when I thought that was a good idea.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer


I do have to protect my name and say I was still in my teens when I thought that was a good idea.
There were lost of ps systems that atf was recommended for use back then.
Your memory is just better than most.

Today I would go with a good synthetic, with the GM fluid being the minimum spec.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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there's a tech. for bleeding each hose fitting individually, I'm not going to post it but it is available, the basic version is crack the pressure side fittings one at a time , following the flow till you dont get air bubles.... nomo, and use a non-foaming ps fluid, like for rack and pinion.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer


I do have to protect my name and say I was still in my teens when I thought that was a good idea.
Many years ago I had a Chevrolet Impala 327 two-door. Beautiful car. One day I noticed the brake fluid was a little low so I added some hydraulic fluid (for jacks) I had at hand. After all the braking system is hydraulic! About a week later the brakes failed. The hydraulic fluid had turned all rubber seals to mush!! Expensive lesson but live and learn.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by paul 74
Many years ago I had a Chevrolet Impala 327 two-door. Beautiful car. One day I noticed the brake fluid was a little low so I added some hydraulic fluid (for jacks) I had at hand. After all the braking system is hydraulic! About a week later the brakes failed. The hydraulic fluid had turned all rubber seals to mush!! Expensive lesson but live and learn.
I did that to a hydraulic clutch that I put in a 40 ford with a Chrysler hemi,
but, in following this thread, I'd like to suggest that the op got a bad unit to start with and should send it back for a replacement. If you've done everything per instructions and it still dont work, dont fix it, replace
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 02:03 PM
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Did a Borgeson Box upgrade a few years ago and replaced all the old fluid that was in the pump.Didn't have any issue's with air in the system.Did the recommended procedure of turning the wheel lock to lock with the engine running.I also did a bunch of slow figure 8's in an empty parking lot to fully test the steering.Maybe you have a bad new pump..New parts are not always good as we all have found out at one time or another...Good Luck...Steering is great with the Borgeson Box...
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To Borgeson conversion, trouble bleeding

Old Jun 1, 2012 | 04:43 PM
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I agree that you may need to check or try swapping out your pump.

I too have the Borgeson conversion on my 69 and I jacked up the front end and put just a little P/S fluid in and went lock to lock til it went down. Did this for while til it stopped going down. Then I started the car and did the whole process again. I had to watch the res, because it wanted to overflow at each of the lock positions.

Last edited by MalibuVLX; Jun 1, 2012 at 04:48 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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Okay I had an extra set of hands today and firgured out my problem, with the other person turning the wheel I looked for air bubbles and noticed nothing. So I climbed under thre car to make sure there were no leaks or binding in the linkage, still nothing. Finally while my helper turned the wheel and held it where it was "sticking" I noticed the rag joint was catching on one of the header primaries. There is a good gap between them when the car is cold, but once everything warms up and expands they lightly touch, which was causing the steering to catch once I took it for a drive. Looks like I will be taking that header off and putting a nice big ding in it unfortunately, but I need my steering to be free to turn. Thanks for all the suggestions! If I dont post any more replies in this thread, that means Its fixed and I'm out spinning doughnuts.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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Good going! Didn't like the supplied rag-joint with the compressed rubber used a u joint instead...[IMG][/IMG]
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